General Category => Simplexes with Non-Original Engines => Topic started by: tprice on July 01, 2016, 08:30:41 AM
-
I have contacted Wayne on buying some parts. He has his torque convertors listed at $215.00. From information I have gathered from this board you can buy same convertor off the net for under $100.00. Am I missing something? Are Wayne's built just for him? If I do order off of net or a local shop what exactly do I need? I don't mind paying for Wayne's if that's what I truly need but don't want to spend an extra $100.00 if not needed. I can use that money for other parts. Could someone explain what I'm missing?
-
I have no idea what brand Wayne is selling or what he includes in his package, but those cheap torque converters are made in China. I only use the made in good ole USA comet brand. I use BMI Karting, as I find their prices fair and shipping quick.
-
Ok, thanks for answering Rick. is there a certain series?
-
After looking on BMI website the TAV2, which is what I remember you use is priced at $195.00. I guess Wayne is not out of line. He has to make something for handling and getting you the right clutch. Thanks for the help. I was looking at the Chinese clutches I suppose. They were pried around $80.00
-
I do not us a TAV system. I use a Comet 30 Series asymmetric style. The reason I chose to use this is two fold. First, both clutches mount on a single plane. The second, is because if you use a TAV style, with intergrated plate, you have no choice on how you mount it. I will look like a minibike setup, not matter what you do. I choose to run a jackshaft setup, with the driven plate mounted up high. This gives a more simplex like appearance. I use high quality pillow block bearing to hold the jackshaft, as opposed to a flat steel or aluminum plate, that has a tendency to flex and break.
Years ago my son had a go kart that I put a TAV style torque converter on, and within 2 weeks the steel plate had flexed and cracked. I welded the crack up and welded a doubler plate on the back side to hold it together.
-
Wayne sells, and/or supplies with his conversion kit, the series 30 Comet clutch mated to the Comet 6" driven clutch, both have the 3/4" bore & 3/16" key. If combined with HIS jackshaft set-up and engine adapter plate for Honda GX series (or clones like the H.F. Predator 212cc engine), it will use the 203593 belt, provided the center to center measurement between clutch and driven clutch is 8-11/16 to 8-3/4 inches.
-
Guys thanks for the information. Carryall, I am using a GS series motor like Rick is using. I haven't decided if I will run as intended or mount up high like Rick has done. Most likely that's what I will do. If I run in the intended position I plan on making a cover from aluminum or stainless to be more eye appealing than the plastic cover provided. RickS is there a link to your build? I'm going to bite the bullet and order from Wayne today to be sure I get what I need. I wanted to save a few dollars if possible to buy more parts.Thanks for the help guys.TP
-
Ricks, I found your build link. I forgot you stretched yours. Oil lamp did basically the same. Thanks
-
Buy the driver and driven clutches first. After you have them mounted and are happy with the location, then measure the center to center distance between them, and then you can order the correct length belt. Any other way is just a guess.
Even if I didn't stretch my bike, I believe the same method of installing my torque converter would still work.
-
Ricks, I assumed that you had the kit and disassembled it to get the drive and driven clutch. I thought you had taken them off of the aluminum or steel plate that makes them look like a mini-bike. Could you tell me which to order? Can I get these from Wayne? BMI ?
-
Presently I have both the clutch and driver (Series 30) made by Comet. I was at a store the other day and checked out a generic clutch that is the same as the Comet I use. I then went on-line and ordered the exact same clutch from Russo power equipment for $34 delivered. I'm pretty sure everything is identical as far as all the parts go, and everything should be interchangable. (I need to replace the central sleeve on mine) so I'll give a review of it if anyone interested? At half the price of one stamped "Comet", they might be a good alternative. (the driven clutches look identical to the "Comet" also, and use the same replacement parts such as the buttons, spring, sleeve, etc...)
-
Presently I have both the clutch and driver (Series 30) made by Comet. I was at a store the other day and checked out a generic clutch that is the same as the Comet I use. I then went on-line and ordered the exact same clutch from Russo power equipment for $34 delivered. I'm pretty sure everything is identical as far as all the parts go, and everything should be interchangable. (I need to replace the central sleeve on mine) so I'll give a review of it if anyone interested? At half the price of one stamped "Comet", they might be a good alternative. (the driven clutches look identical to the "Comet" also, and use the same replacement parts such as the buttons, spring, sleeve, etc...)
Reviews are always welcome ... specially on stuff we might use . ;)
Pete . :)
-
I figured although the TAV 2 "knock-off" units were subject to the backer plate breaking, nobody ever mentioned anything about the clutches themselves. AND, If memory serves me, Comet was "out of business" for awhile until mfg supply started making them. I'll let you know how "it" works, if there's any differences between the guage steel used, and/or quality of components including fit and finish, and how the unit works as a whole. Mine started making a clatter/rattle noise so figured for the price, it might be worth it just for the cost of the part that needs replacement. (sleeve) I ordered from Russo because they seem to (hopefully) sell the better quality clones, and their prices are always cheaper than other competitors.
-
Paul, is the sleeve you are talking about the bronze bushing or the Drive hub? All these parts are available.
-
The drive hub sleeve. I looked at just buying that part but, figured for a little bit more ($15) I get a complete clutch.
-
Hey guys. My generic clutch was delivered today. (ultra fast shipping thru Russo!) and here's my review thus far. After disassembling and comparing them "side by side", there's only a couple slight differences cosmetically. ALL parts are interchangeable! First difference is the "generic clutch" has what could possibly be some type of hard galvanizing on the surfaces that contact both the belt and interior of the shells where the spring pack (and lube) are applied. That's a "plus" compared to the Comet brand which is relatively uncoated steel. Second difference is inside where the clutch pack sleeve rides seems to be hard chrome lined vs. the Comet, which is a uncoated steel. Not sure what grade steel is inside the Comet and how it compares vs. chrome lining as far as wear resistance but, I do know some of my AK barrels are hard chrome lined and they hold up to a 7.62cal. bullet tearing thru them repeatedly. The outer surface of the generic clutch cover (the surface seen visually when installed) also seems to be chrome. Albeit it's not "show chrome" assumedly because these clutches are built more for utility than for "show". That's a plus as far as appearances go but, that's subjective depending on if your painting it?
I did ride the bike with it installed for a couple miles, and it did engage slightly quicker, (few less rpms) and firmer with less noise/rattle than my Comet but, that could be either because it's new with lube, and/or has slightly weaker springs around the weight pack?
All in all tho, for approx. 1/2 the price of a Comet brand, I can't see any reason NOT to buy one. Granted, I haven't put a hundred plus miles on this one YET, but either way, I have a whole other clutch now, if needed, whole, or for parts if nothing else...
-
Good report Paul! Keep us updated when you get some miles on it.
-
You guys have fun in Portland. I actually reconsidered and kicked around the idea of going but, long story short, I collapsed on March 3rd from massive lung infection. I ended up on life support for 2 weeks and then in ICU for another 6 weeks, they tell me after I "came to". I had lost the ability to stand, let alone walk from all the muscle and weight loss (over 40lbs) I then got stuck in a VA nursing home for physical therapy but couldn't "stand it" LOL, so went home and re-learned to walk eventually about a month ago but I still need supplemental oxygen for anything "strenuous" like stairs, etc... I've been unable to go to work because of the fumes and welding smoke and grinding dust would just compound the issue, so, BOREDOM is now killing me!!! Ultimately tho, I feel it wouldn't be safe/prudent to travel too far yet with the associated health issues. (heart function took a hit also) Luckily the Servi is small enough I can hold it up, and ride it even with my weak legs, and can putt it around on occasion. Take lotsa pics and hope the weather cooperates for you guys. Be safe.
-
Will do on the pics Paul. You will be there via the lens of my Canon. You too Eric from England!!
-
Praying for your complete recovery Paul. A lifetime of working metal takes certain tolls on the body, but when you love what you're doing the spirit is at the same time lifted... get well! These guys will probably lift one or two in your absents at Portland & tell a few "Paul stories" too. Get well so you can defend yourself in person next year. Rick C.
-
BTW, here's a pic of the new clutch. Ignore the screwdriver, it's just the easiest way to pull the weight pack without disassembling the springs. (NOTE: they could use a bit more dry graphite lube than they come with)