,,,I do work on other projects.  I had always wanted a pair of drive-in movie speakers just to use as stereo speakers in the garage.   I came across this one (says Simplex).  I thought I might just give it a good speaker and a long cord.  But soon it transpired into this.   

I got the Bluetooth receiver but then added the volume control with a built-in amplifier.  This project had a lot of fun intricate machine work.  Not to mention intricate soldering (15w pin soldering pencil).  It can charge off of my phone charger.  The sound is clear.  It uses a 4.8v battery pack.

The screws were very small.  M2X.4 for the switch, 2-56 to mount Bluetooth board and 4-40 screws for the speakers.  The mounting board is black plexiglass. The taps were so small that i just used my fingers to twist the taps through the plastic.

 Some of the final pieces to be plated.  After reading the manual for the Nth time I learned that the front brake adjuster had thumb wheels rather than nuts.  These are my version of those! 

The spark plug wire clamp had an 80-year-old grommet on there BUT I found some on a marine site that were a match.  So, it got a new one.

One more view of the ignition before installing the flywheel.

Lastly, showing my assembly stand.  I fired the engine on the same stand.  I used the rope starter pulley from my 1949 Firestone outboard as it bolted right on to the three center holes.  After that I was able to pull start it as with any engine.

Reggie,   Take a minute to read the thread 'hub conversion'.  I have some flanges slotted if you decide you want one.

Reckon Plating
Ft. Wayne, Indiana

260-744-4339

they are very professional and package very well for the return trip.  They ask that you send a list of items with the parts.  i always take pics too.  I have used them a few times now.

Here in the first few pictures I tried to show the rotary valve as it rotates.  Shows how the separate hole and slot come in to view.

Next shots are just of block in position.  Looking back I wish I would have mocked the motor up completely along with the rear wheel first.  It would have been easier while constructing everything and not have to worry about not scratching the paint.  All turning out ok but would have helped things.

I tested the spark after assembly.  It jumped .125" gap and appeared like it could have jumped a wider gap than that. I own a meter that reads capacitance.  I checked the condenser that was in the engine when I got it. I compared this to some NOS ones and also to the Wico book.  Seems to me if they are close they work.  I could have used the one this engine had in it but by now I had a NOS one installed and left it.

Last pics  the motor has the throttle rod installed and is ready to test run.
 

I sent out another load of parts to be chromed.  They told me 6 to 8 weeks, but they were done in 5 weeks.

Just a couple more pieces to be done and I will have a complete bike chromed except for the frame and tank.  My idea is to skip chroming the tank and use the Simplex stick-on chrome tank covers. 

Why do I do this?  I don't know but it feels good!

I have been making some early dummy grips.  Jim Lokai is planning on bringing his direct drives to Portland this year and all of them have been missing the left grip.  The pics show my version of a reproduction.  I tried to match those of an early G model.

Jim sent one of his twist grips to me for dimensions.  I was pretty happy to see it as I had wondered how they worked.  They always seemed to be stiff but actually have a tension ring that make them that way.  Infinite cruise control!

I found some nice shrink tube that was sold as fishing pole grip (and other sport handles).  It had virtually no shrinkage long ways and it only shrank on the diameter.  I sent him enough grip material to do the right side on each bike as well. 

So now he will have matching grips.