General Category => Other Things Simplex => Topic started by: Ricks on January 21, 2015, 08:17:31 AM
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As we all know, finding good fenders is difficult. I know Wayne has fiberglass reproductions available, but I have decided to try building my own, from steel. To accomplish this, I need a couple of tools. I am going to try doing it with an English wheel and a shrinker/stretcher. As I had neither of these tools, I recently got a shrinker/stretcher from Harbor Freight. As we all know the quality of their stuff, it took some massaging, but I have it working well. Using one of these by hand is a pain in the ass, so I decided to build a pedal operated stand. This makes it much easier and quicker to use this machine. I would guess I have about 10 hours into the stand, with lathe and welding time computed in. It works really well.
Next up will be a Harbor Freight English wheel, very modified using some of the ideas others have tested and proven to work. I will post that when I get around to it.
Here is the Shrinker/stretcher, I just need to paint it.
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Pretty fancy there , Rick .
Nice job . Hope it works well for you .
Pete . :)
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Looks good. I could always use a couple of good fenders.
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All painted and tested. Works very well. I can't wait to get the English Wheel and try to make a fender.
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Kinda pretty for a working shop . (http://www.jeepforum.com/ubb/laugh2.gif) (http://www.jeepforum.com/ubb/thumbs.gif)
Pete . :)
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Hammered paint! It hides the scrapes pretty well.
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Hey Rick great job! I have one too! Here is a pic of my English wheel...I built it about 10 years ago.[img][/img I sold a few of these back when the biker shows were the rage. Mine folds off the wall to save space.
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I like that hammered paint for old rims and stuff that's a bit rough . It definitely hides a lot of sins . ;)
Pete . :)
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Hey Rick great job! I have one too! Here is a pic of my English wheel...I built it about 10 years ago.[img][/img I sold a few of these back when the biker shows were the rage.
Crimity sakes , you could do tank fenders with that thing . ;D
Pete . :)
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Well just be sure you have a good pair of kevlar gloves to protect your hands from cuts. :o
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Mike, nice wheel! That looks stout!
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Well, here's my E-wheel. I started with a horrible fright "kit" and built it up to where it is usable. Baileigh Industrial and Woodward Fab also sell the same wheel, but includes the lower anvils, with different paint for about $750, but I picked up the HF one for $260, plus the anvil kit for another $100. I spent about 20 hours beefing up the frame, adding a tensioner to the riser, adding an additional set screw to the anvil holder, polishing the wheels and basically squaring everything up. Now I just need to learn how to use it! LOL
Anyone know what gauge a Simplex fender is? I measured a few and see anywhere from .031" - .049" , depending on what part of the fender. I am thinking 20 gauge, but I guess 18 is possible?
Here is what a Baileigh one looks like and mine after the mods. Also threw in a picture of the shot bag stand I built.
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Rick ,
Yours looks like it can withstand a lot more abuse . ;)
When will production commence ? :D
Pete . :)
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I have been learning how to use the wheel and shrinker to form the fenders. I have made a few attempts and think I have a good plan of attack on how this should be done. Here is a short fender section that I did. I only had an 18" long piece of sheet metal, so that is how long I made the fender section. Here it is compared to a stock fender. I had a short section of an old fender cut so I could check the profile against.
I also made a couple of T dollies and Tucking Forks while I was at it.
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Lookin' real good , Rick .
Are you using the same thickness metal as OEM ? Maybe just the light , but your 'new' fender seems a bit more thin .
None the less , nice work . ;)
Pete . :)
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I used 22 gauge on the test piece. I think Simplex used 20 gauge. I will be getting some 20 gauge next week, and may pick up some 18 gauge also to try out. I had some 16 gauge at home, but man, that was hard to form.
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I'd think 16g would take a lot more pressure and I suppose a bit more muscle .
I've never used an English wheel , so I'm just guessing .
Pete . :)
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I'd think 16g would take a lot more pressure and I suppose a bit more muscle .
I've never used an English wheel , so I'm just guessing .
Pete . :)
16 gauge is about what they used to make the seat pans. 16 ga is .060" vs 20 ga is .036".
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That looks like a great start for the chopped and rusted repair. my question
would be that, have you tried to make the notch for the forks? That little reverse bend that goes in a bit. Now that's seems to be where I would be stumped. Shoot I'm stumped just trying to build my drop manifold and to get it out of the way of the belts. At least you did start with the hardest one so when you get to the rear fender you will just be able to pop them out. ;D
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That looks like a great start for the chopped and rusted repair. my question
would be that, have you tried to make the notch for the forks? That little reverse bend that goes in a bit. Now that's seems to be where I would be stumped. Shoot I'm stumped just trying to build my drop manifold and to get it out of the way of the belts. At least you did start with the hardest one so when you get to the rear fender you will just be able to pop them out. ;D
My idea to put the fork notch in is to make a die and stamp it in. I think I could use a block of hardwood and use a router to cut the groove and then use a piece of round stock to punch the notch into the die. Anyone see a problem with this thinking?
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That's exactly how I would do it , Rick .
I'm sure you'd have to clamp the fender to the hardwood die in a couple of places , so there would be no movement .
Pete . :)
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Rick How much time did you have into making the fender sample?
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Rick How much time did you have into making the fender sample?
About an hour. I am working on a front fender. I have about 3 hours into it so far, and it still needs some metal finishing. I also need to make a jig to stamp in the fork reliefs. Comments are welcome!
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Nice work Rick. One of the guys in our blacksmithing group also makes things with these tools. He used to sell a lot of fenders on ebay. He has done many demonstrations at our club shop in the past & he can turn out a full size fender in aluminum in about 20 minutes. Really something to watch him. And he wasn't using any tools I didn't see in your photos....with maybe only the specialty hammers to use with the shot bag.
I've been meaning to buy a HF (Hazard Fraught) set myself but just haven't done it yet.
Mike Sal
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Hi Mike, long time since you have been here, You must be playing with the VW.
I just picked up some mallets to go with the shot bag and I have a cheapie old set of body hammers.
I think once I figure out what I am doing, I may be able to get the time down to 2 hours or so for a complete fender. I bet the aluminum shapes up much quicker than steel.
As for Horrible Freight, I have noticed that over the last few years the quality of some stuff has improved. I read that one of the owners son's has had a big impact on this. They built a new testing facility, and are demanding better quality from their suppliers.
I also have one of their throttles shears, and what a crude casting it is. I disassembled it, bead blasted it clean, smoothed the rough casting, and then trued all the mating surfaces. What a huge difference this made. Now, I understand this is not a Beverly Shear, but for the $100 I have into it, it works amazingly well.
While speaking of tools, I like Grizzly. They seem to be a couple of steps in refinement ahead of HF, and usually work well right out of the box, albeit at a higher cost.
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Yes, I've been busy getting the repro Kubelwagen ready for the upcoming reenacting season. I've discovered that using metal from old washing machines works pretty good for small forming jobs. I've been using my HF throatless shear a lot over the last couple weeks. Ya, the casting was pretty rough & needed to be reworked when I got it about 5 years ago. The mounting surface was so bad that I still have to put a shim under one corner when I clamp it down to the work table.
For punching holes, if you can find the fake whitney punch tools that come from Taiwan instead of china, the quality is much better.
Yes, the aluminum fenders are a lot faster to fab than steel. Don't be afraid to use a rose bud torch to anneal the steel inbetween workings.
Regarding the dimples for the fork tubes, you might make the female portion by making a cast of that area from an original that you can use to shove the dowels against in a press.
Mike Sal
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Well, here is my first complete fender. Not perfect, but better than most of the originals out there. I made a quick and dirty die out of wood to put the fork reliefs in to the fender. Works better than I thought it would. Only took a couple of strikes with a dead blow hammer against a piece of round stock to get them the correct depth. I will work out a more repeatable way in the future to index each one the same. On this one, I just eyeballed it and compared it to a stock one.
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Not bad , for a rookie . ;)
Next one should be award wining . :D
Pete . :)
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very nice Rick. An ole tin knocker from way back!
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Now I need to build a bike to put these fenders on! Only 5 months to Portland!
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" Only 5 months to Portland! "
And here I was doing so good about NOT becoming anxious . :( ;)
Pete . :)
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I see that you have the handle bolted to your beverly shear. I leave the bolt out so it stores better on the shelf below the work table. I just slide the handle on & off as needed.
Have you squirted any paint onto a fender yet to see what the "as rolled" surface finish provides?
Mike S
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Looks great Rick, you'll be spitting those things out left and right.
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I see that you have the handle bolted to your beverly shear. I leave the bolt out so it stores better on the shelf below the work table. I just slide the handle on & off as needed.
Have you squirted any paint onto a fender yet to see what the "as rolled" surface finish provides?
Mike S
I have thought about drilling it for a hitch pin for easy removal, but I store it on a wall shelf and just leave the handle attached.
I have not tried spraying it yet, but it will need more sanding on the edges to get rid of the marks left by the Lancaster style Shrinker.
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Looks great Rick, you'll be spitting those things out left and right.
I might make a few extras, but I just like the challenge of doing something that I haven't done before. I will do a rear next, as I will need one in the future for a frame I have. One of these days I might even attempt a gas tank.
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Really nice work on the fender Rick.
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Well let me place my order then. I could use two pieces for the rear fender from where the belts are forward. Please. 8)
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Well let me place my order then. I could use two pieces for the rear fender from where the belts are forward. Please. 8)
Give me some time to work out my technique and I can help you out Reese.
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Reese ,
I guess I missed something ...
Are talking about the rear fender cut outs ?
Maybe I'm just being thick . It is late .
Pete . :)
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It's not the cut outs where the belts pass well maybe one needs help there. Its the length to the end and where it bolts to the lower frame. That's all. 8)
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Those look great.
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Here is my first rear fender. I found that as you try to work longer pieces of metal, it is harder to keep them consistent. I have not cut out for the belt or drilled any holes in it.
On the cardboard is my pattern for the radius.
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Nice work , Rick .
Looks like you're pretty well getting the hang of it . ;)
Pete . :)
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Thanks Pete! It would be nice if I knew someone that has done this before so I could ask some questions.
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Rick ,
Here's what seems to be a fairly comprehensive forum .
If you haven't yet , you might take a look around this site :
http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=49
Pete . :)
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I have done a lot of reading on that site. Building a short, chopper style fender is a piece of cake; building a long, wrap around fender is a different story.
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From what you said before , it just takes a bit more muscle and stamina . It'd be nice if they made a pill for that . One that would last up to 4 hours . :D
Pete . :)
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How's the fender manufacturing process goin Rick? As soon as you get it mastered, you can start on mine. Both of mine have been bobbed. I still have the section you gave me for the rear, but I think 2 new fenders would work better. lol
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How's the fender manufacturing process goin Rick? As soon as you get it mastered, you can start on mine. Both of mine have been bobbed. I still have the section you gave me for the rear, but I think 2 new fenders would work better. lol
Very slow James. I have been working 6 days a week for the past year, and it doesn't leave a lot of time to play. Unfortunately, it is not getting any better, as people are retiring faster than we can make new controllers. It takes a newbie 3-4 years before he/she can work on his/her own. On the bright side, I am eligible to retire, but I would like to work 5 more years so my wife and I can retire together and move to a warmer climate.
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rick , you working at a center. atp cfii here
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rick , you working at a center. atp cfii here
Yup, ZNY. Been here for 26 years.
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I want to call it quits in 4 years if Sonya will let me......
Quite the deal about that delta flight going off the runway today.
Mike S
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I want to call it quits in 4 years if Sonya will let me......
Quite the deal about that delta flight going off the runway today.
Mike S
Another 100 yards it would have been in the drink!
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Well I guess somebody didn't put the snow chains on before they took off. :o
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Rick,
How is the fender manufacturing going, are they still working you to much to make progress?
I met a guy in Florida that has a 1941 and needs a rear fender with a right side cutout as his original was bobbed by a PO.
I told him I would check around so if this is something you could produce or if anyone knows of one anywhere that could be had it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
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I do have one that has the left side cut out. Beautiful shape. I guess I would sell it. I intended to use a bobber fender on mine. What do you think it's worth.??
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Rick,
How is the fender manufacturing going, are they still working you to much to make progress?
I met a guy in Florida that has a 1941 and needs a rear fender with a right side cutout as his original was bobbed by a PO.
I told him I would check around so if this is something you could produce or if anyone knows of one anywhere that could be had it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Haven't done much lately with the fenders. I did make a couple of patch pieces, about 24" long so Reese could repair 2 of his fenders. I am still working 6 days a week, so not a lot of time to play with the bike stuff.
I don't think Wayne has much in the way of original fenders either. I know he bought molds from Glenn to have fiberglass fenders made. This might be a viable option.
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I get to work a lot too so I understand.
I'll check with Wayne and see if he has something.
Thanks Rick.
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hey rick... goto eBay and check out Item# 291466234815, T25101 Grizzly Benchtop English Wheel
GaryS
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I have an English wheel. I have also been to Grizzly in Pennsylvania many times and looked at that one. Imho, that one is too small to do much work with.
Gary, come to the VMBC meet in Portland, Indiana in July and come meet a bunch of the guys on here. I will also bring one of my fenders, just to show it can be done by a rank amateur! Lol
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Thanx for the invite Rick... Maybe next year I'll make the trip... This year it's gonna be Yard Sales every weekend... gotta finish cashing in on all my collecting before I can truly pursue this new passion. But have fun and take lots of PIX.
GaryS
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From what you said before , it just takes a bit more muscle and stamina . It'd be nice if they made a pill for that . One that would last up to 4 hours . :D
Pete . :)
Yeah... It's called Viagra
GaryS