General Category => Other Things Simplex => Topic started by: pd on August 26, 2014, 11:26:00 AM
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During my boredom , I drew an idea or two and put them in my computer .
Just a rough idea of what could be :
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa28/pdcomm/Simplex/ThrottleTwistTube_zps932bf063.png)
Simply an extension / version of the slip throttle I now have .
Here's a slightly more advanced version :
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa28/pdcomm/Simplex/TWISTTHROTTLE_zps2cf4f528.png)
I have a couple other things I'm working on to improve , but still retain the original 'flavor' of Simplex .
Pete . :)
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Thanks: I can use those drawings.
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Great , Butch .
Glad they might do some good .
Let us know how things turn out . Maybe with a pic or two ? ;)
Pete . :)
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Good thing I have my Simplex to dream about ...
What do you think of this ?
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa28/pdcomm/Simplex/RearRack_zps27055a54.png)
Pete . :)
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After even more time on my hands :
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa28/pdcomm/Simplex/Simplex%20Springer%20Brake%202_zpsmwkhw9qt.png)
And here's another version with a slightly different approach for the activation 'system' :
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa28/pdcomm/Simplex/Simplex%20Springer%20Brake_zpsmwxl7ehc.png)
???
Pete . :)
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No comments ???
Good , bad or indifferent ? Not even a 'your pics are too small . I can't read the print' ?
Pete . :)
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Do you think it would generate enough friction to effectively stop the tire? For the actual brake material making contact with the tire, were you thinking metal? How about bicycle brake pads? (the rubber shoe type used for bike rims)
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Hi Paul ,
I think it would , at least , slow the wheel rotation and hopefully more ,
being as the levers/contact 'pads' are planned to be a single steel unit on each side and the tire is rubber .
I thought about bike pads , but that combination ( rubber on rubber ) seems likely to wear quickly . Plus there isn't very much room between the fender and tire .
In case you didn't notice , the planned contact points are on the outside portions of the tread . I figure that that part rarely gets worn before the tire needs replacing .
Pete . :)
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I like the center pull cable system better. Interesting idea!
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Not that it's actually needed , but , here's a bit of overkill for rear wheel braking :
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa28/pdcomm/Simplex/Sheavebrake_zps9d643030.png)
Pete . :)
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Here's one marketed for Yamaha but, should work on a ServiCycle I'd think? LOL
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Ha . That might just work , Paul . LOL
Pete . :)
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I'm wondering if you would run into heating/warping issues on the sheave brake. It would take a while for heat buildup though due to the large circumference and "relatively" slow speed.
Also, you may be limited by the amount of force you can apply before being limited by the structural integrity of the sheave. What I mean by that is with a shoe in just one place on the circumference it would constantly be trying to push the sheave "off-center" so to speak.
Not saying it won't work (It most likely will) just trying to give food for thought.
Also, what program did you draw that with?
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"I'm wondering if you would run into heating/warping issues on the sheave brake. It would take a while for heat buildup though due to the large circumference and "relatively" slow speed."
I thought about that prior to drawing and came to the conclusion that most likely any friction generated heat would be small to begin with and easily dissipated for the same reasons you state .
"Also, you may be limited by the amount of force you can apply before being limited by the structural integrity of the sheave. What I mean by that is with a shoe in just one place on the circumference it would constantly be trying to push the sheave "off-center" so to speak. "
Thought about that , too . That's the reason for the roller bearing that would ride on the flat of the belt simultaneously to the shoes pressing against the sheave . The sheave and belt would be pressed together . All that happening while the complete brake 'arm' floats or drifts , forward or back . So , the brake arm adjusts to where ever the sheave is .
"Also, what program did you draw that with?"
The drawings you see above were done using MS Paint . It's nothing fancy , but it's not bad for the price . ;)
Pete . :)
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A band brake might also work. I've seen them on old mini-bikes.
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A band brake might also work. I've seen them on old mini-bikes.
I wonder just effective that would be . I would think application would be very easy and might not be nearly as noticeable when completed .
Pete . :)
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For some reason I didn't catch the roller when I first looked at it. Assuming you could supply enough force (which shouldn't be a problem) I think it would make an effective brake.
As far as a drawing program goes there is some 3d modeling software available for hobbyists for free. It's called fusion 360 and it's pretty incredible. It takes just a little bit of time to figure a few things out but it's not too bad to use. If you really like your drawing you could 3d print it directly from what you created.
Here's the link http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview (http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview)
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Thanks for the link . I'm not sure my 2D mind is really ready for a 3D world . :D
Pete . :)
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If I remember correctly, the band makes just makes contact with the outside of the clutch drum. It works quite effectively. The standard size is 4"