General Category => Simplexes with Non-Original Engines => Topic started by: rsduda on October 27, 2014, 08:30:44 AM
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ok so I have given up on trying to find a original engine for my 48 so I want to re-power it something else and I don't know where to start I can get a gc160 from tractor supply but is that enough HP ?
thanks
Ron
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Almost any engine will have more power than a stock simplex! For what it is worth, a Simplex is around 4hp, and pretty low on torque. The Honda GC160 or GC190 are rated at 5 & 6 horsepower, and will be more than enough to get a simplex up to 45-50 mph.
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can you get a 160 that will run the lights ?
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Yes you can but involves changing the flywheel and adding the lighting coils. If you go that far add a kick start and bam your there. Thats what I bought this past July and tweeking it. So come to the dark side we have more than cookies. ???
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The factory manual says a Simplex can reach 40mph...in one block. Woo hoo.
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Going down a hill!!
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I bought the 212 harbor freight predator motor for $99. Traded my original motor to Wayne for the mounting plate, the jack shaft, the comet clutch and and kicker. I think about $800 worth of parts if you were to buy them out right from Wayne, but you don't need the kicker, you can use the pull start, and get the kicker later if you wanted, Worked on it two nights after work mounting everything and had it started and running. Still need to make a few adjustments to the jack shaft b/c it wants to slip a little when I get on it from a dead stop, but it runs at least twice as fast as the original motor. I haven't tested it for top speed, b/c I only have 26" bicycle tires on it. Starts with one kick every time...(that's only if you remember to switch the kill switch to the run position.) I have very little mechanical ability and was able to do all of it in just 2 evenings. Some on here like the upright motors better b/c they look more original. I also like the looks, but it takes more fabrication to get them mounted. Look at some of the posts in this section to see which one you prefer, and decide how much work you want to do. I love the look of the original motor, but changing to the clone motor was the best decision I have made for what I am wanting to do with my simplex. Carryall is a good one to talk to about these motors and is very willing to help out,
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thanks for all your help I will keep you posted
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I just placed the same order with Wayne. The clutch and Jack shaft kit cokes with all of the needed brackets, correct? I'm working with a rolling chassis (just frame and tank basically)so i hope you and carryall can help me out if I'm looking for pointers.
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did you get the mounting plate, if so, everything bolts to it. The jack shaft comes with 2 bearings, and the clutch comes with the belt and everything needed to mount. You will need the bolts to mount the bearings and motor to the frame.
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Maybe I'll start a thread and post detailed pics of the process when i do mine. That way others that choose to go that route can view. Thanks for the info!
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Socal:: Please do .
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I will. Never assembled anything like this before. I've wrenched on dozens of classic cars though, so I'm sure I'll get the hang of it. Going with Waynes adapter plate, kick starter and clutch/jack shaft assembly. I bought two whizzer sheaves, one for my 52 simplex and one for "my wife's" 48 safti cycle. I've had a change of heart and will run a Simplex sheave. I'm looking for a set of good tank decals though. I bought a set off eBay and they turned out to be horribly pixelated garbage. Does anybody have a good contact for good decals?
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Wayne also carries some water slide decals and Sonrisers can make a few in vinyl. I myself had the lettering done in powdered coating not perfect but dang near bullet proof.
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What's the difference between the water slide and vinyl? All I know is that the ones I bought off of ebay were HORRIBLE,
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From Wiki :
Different variations of decals include: water-slide or water-dip; and vinyl peel-and-stick. A water-slide (or water-dip) decal is screen-printed on a layer of water-soluble adhesive on a water-resistant paper, that must first be dipped in water prior to its application.
Upon contact with water, the glue is loosened and the decal can be removed from its backing; overly long exposure, however, dissolves the glue completely causing the decal to fail to adhere. A peel-and-stick decal is actually not a decal as described above, but a vinyl sticker with adhesive backing, that can be transferred by peeling off its base. The sign industry calls these peel-and-stick vinyl stickers vinyl-cut-decals.
Pete . :)
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But if you put a water slide decal under a clear coat they dont come off either too where a vinyl one would be subject to spilled gas.
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Good point , Reese .
Pete . :)
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The ones Sonrisers made for my Sportsman are the vinyl they wrap cars in. I doubt that a little gas is going to hurt them. James, what say you?
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I would always recommend the vinyl...of course, that is what I am able to make. Vinyl Like I made for Rick is for a Sportsman and is printed and covers the whole side panel of the tank. Vinyl for an automatic would be cut. looks nice, but there are some draw backs. It leaves small edges that are easy to catch when wiping or cleaning with a rag, but I always figured I could just remove and replace if I have problems. I have spilled gas on mine, and not had any probs yet. If you go the water slide route, I think I would clear coat over them b/c they would lift if gas was spilled on them.
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What if I went the vinyl route and clear coated over it? Planning on powder coating my frame black and paint the tank and fenders a variation of regal red.
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Vinyl is gonna be thicker than water slide. You could clear over it, but you would want to test to make sure the solvent in the clear isn't gonna break down and lift the vinyl. The vinyl I use for cutting decals is a 7 yr sign making vinyl. The vinyl I use for printed material is car wrapping vinyl that would also be laminated and is a little thicker than the sign vinyl. Never clear coated, but I would want to test each vinyl before I took the chance of ruining a good paint job. My wife did try to clear coat over the sign vinyl for a plaque she was making for a cust, and it lifted and ruined the vinyl...but I think she tried using a laquer based clear from rattle can. What decals are you looking for? We have started designing the automatic decals, but haven't finished them up yet. If I were to make some, I could sent you some of the same vinyl used to test with.
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Here is a pic of the decals I put on my tank 2 yrs ago. They are just something I designed and cut right b4 I went to Portland to get something on the tank. The original decals would look just like the original. These are 2 layers of vinyl, 1 white and 1 black, the originals would also be 2 layers b/c they are 2 colors also. Would recommend cutting the vinyl for the automatic decals using the thinner vinyl.
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What about the older tank decal (wings)? I have a 52 but i love that style decal. I have a local shop that said they could do it in vinyl, but I dunno if theirs could be cleared either.
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We have made the winged decal on a larger scale, but it could be made smaller to fit a tank. It would have to be printed on the thicker vinyl b/c of all the different colors and smaller details.
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I'm letting a local sign shop take a crack at it. I gave them one of the bad ones I got off of eBay for reference. We'll see how they do. They said it definitely looks doable.