General Category => Simplexes with Non-Original Engines => Topic started by: Ricks on September 23, 2015, 02:50:20 PM
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As I have had a mid 1940's frame sitting around unused for several years, I thought I would start on a stretched bike. My plan is to simply upscale a stock bike, by extending the down tubes 4", and letting the other tubes find there own length. What I did is cut the bike into 3 sections, and reassembled it with thick wall tube that I turned down on a lathe to make inserts. This will enable me to figure out the other lengths of the stretch, and cut extension sections to fit between the cuts.
On with the pictures. Here is the junk I started with.
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Look at the frontend someone hacked up! They widened it, for reasons unknown.
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And this is what I came up with. It is 4" up, about 4.5" on the bottom tubes and 6.75" on the backbone.
This will leave me with almost 18" from the motor plate to the tank mounting crossbar. For reference, a stock Simplex is 14".
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Plenty of room for a BIG motor , Rick . ;)
Pete . :)
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Plenty of room for a BIG motor , Rick . ;)
Pete . :)
I have not decided on a motor yet, but leaves plenty of room for options.
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does it look like you will be adding to forks or changing the rake
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does it look like you will be adding to forks or changing the rake
I will lengthen the forks. I think the geometry will remain the same as stock.
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Fitted all the tubes. Now I need to drill the frame for the plug welds and then I can weld the tubes in. Only 8 1/2 months to Portland!
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I don't know ... Rick ,
That frame is looking a lot like an early '70s chopper . ;)
Pete . :)
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I guess I better get this bike done soon so I can get it painted. :o
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Cut apart the old, hacked-up front end. It took a while to cut through and grind off all the bugger welding on it. Look at the pile of scrape metal left behind. Why do people do things like this? LOL I will be extending the forks 3".
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Looks like some are fairly decent welds , at least .
Pete . :)
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Looks like some are fairly decent welds , at least .
Pete . :)
The welds did not have much penetration, they were mostly just sitting on top of the metal. But, there were a lot of them!
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Ah , the 'a lot of little sticks is as strong as a single big stick' syndrome . ;)
Pete . :)
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I have wondered what the holes were for in the rear dropouts! Now we know!. In fact, maybe Simplex used them the same way.
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And , they might have even used them to attach the rear fender braces and rack supports , Tom . ;)
Pete . :)
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I finished up the stretch, and made a new tank mount. I now have 17 1/4" under the tank mount for the new motor. I put a tank in and mocked up around where the rear fender will sit. Looks pretty cool, and should have plenty of room to stretch the legs!
Next up is to lengthen the front forks.
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I don't know , Rick ...
You might just feel like you're on a High Wheeler when you're done , at least , compared to a stocker . ;)
Pete . :)
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Any thoughts on moving the seat back a little. Maybe to give yourself a little more Leg room. I know on my streach the set will be moved as gar back as possible.
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Any thoughts on moving the seat back a little. Maybe to give yourself a little more Leg room. I know on my streach the set will be moved as gar back as possible.
When I get it on wheels and sit on it, then I will decide if the seat needs to move.
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Slow going on this project, as I am also working on one of my daughters rooms. I have the front forks ready to weld up. I stretched them 3 1/4", which should give a stock look. I think when people see this bike, they will know something is different, but they will be hard pressed to figure out what it is.
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Once welded , you'll have a hard time tweaking those forks out of shape . ;)
Lookin' good .
Pete . :)
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Once welded , you'll have a hard time tweaking those forks out of shape . ;)
Lookin' good .
Pete . :)
You said it Pete! I used .75 x .183 wall tube inside the 1".
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Makes me want to build something! I will probably get after my Sportsman over the winter.
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You better get a move on , Tom . You guys are gonna be knee deep in snow before too long . ;)
It's 75° & cloudy here today .
Pete . :)
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Hi Rick,
Vanguard 14-23hp would look nice sitting on that frame.
Dave
(http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb291/davefromadrian/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsh9cvujyk.jpg) (http://s211.photobucket.com/user/davefromadrian/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsh9cvujyk.jpg.html)
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(http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb291/davefromadrian/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpssn4solj7.jpg) (http://s211.photobucket.com/user/davefromadrian/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpssn4solj7.jpg.html)
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Kikker bike with vanguard.
(http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb291/davefromadrian/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsoyem5pfl.jpg) (http://s211.photobucket.com/user/davefromadrian/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsoyem5pfl.jpg.html)
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(http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb291/davefromadrian/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps24wdxssj.jpg) (http://s211.photobucket.com/user/davefromadrian/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps24wdxssj.jpg.html)
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Hi Dave! I feel that would be way too much for a Simplex frame. The Harley was built much stronger than a Simplex, not to mention real motorcycle wheels, tires and brakes.
Is that your Harley? I love it! I bet that goes like a rocket ship.
How about the Kikker bike? Are they well built?
Did you get to Portland this year, as I didn't see you?
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Both bikes are not mine. I hope to find a roller Harley Hummer someday as I have a 23hp Vanguard waiting on the shelf for one. My friend Dave owns the Kikker bike. Think he paid $800 with title and then trashed the 150cc china motor and installed an 18hp Vanguard with a perf kit. Runs great and gets up to 80mph quick.
I did not make Portland this past summer. Ivan and I should be there next year. He wants to ride his 46 Comet around.
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I buttoned up the front end and mocked it up with fenders to get a sense of size. I think it is still in proportion, and is coming together nicely.
I just ordered a Honda GS190 motor for it. When it gets here I will work on a motor mount for it, and work on a brake rod solution. I would like to keep the brake rod as close to original as possible. I have seen many engine conversions where the brake solution looks awkward or worse, dangerous.
BTW, that is one of my homemade fenders on the rear!
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Not too bad , Rick .
What color did you say you were going to paint it ?
Pete . :)
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Not too bad , Rick .
What color did you say you were going to paint it ?
Pete . :)
Paint? Who needs paint? LOL
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Nice subtleness to preserve the Simplex lines. Be interesting to see the stance when on rubber. What is the wheelbase?
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Nice subtleness to preserve the Simplex lines. Be interesting to see the stance when on rubber. What is the wheelbase?
55". For reference, a stock bike is 48-49".
Seat height looks like it will end up 3-4" higher than stock.
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Looking good Rick. What are you planning on doing for lights. Does the motor have a charging coil. I would like to see somebody come up with a way to run lights and still look original.
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Looking good Rick. What are you planning on doing for lights. Does the motor have a charging coil. I would like to see somebody come up with a way to run lights and still look original.
I am going with a Honda GS190. I am going to try to adapt a lighting coil to the motor. We shall see how it goes. I only have 7 months to get it together!
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My S2 wheel base is 56 inches. So I get it! Plus you are a bit taller than I am so your ride should fit you good. The S2 fits Travis better than I.
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I want to get the torque converter mounted up high, so this is what I came up with. I used 1" tube for the uprights, then drilled them for some mounting bungs I made up. Should be plenty strong to hold the pillow block bearings. I am not sure if I am going to use an idler, as it will not be necessary, as my drive pulley is mounted own a fixed shaft.
Anyone see any issues with this?
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So the vision is having about a 30 degree incline of the primary belt up and away from the engine? And from there the secondary belt would appear much as it does normally?
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So the vision is having about a 30 degree incline of the primary belt up and away from the engine? And from there the secondary belt would appear much as it does normally?
Exactly. Tom, do you think that plan is sound?
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I don't see why not. Sounds like a unique look. Wish there was a unique looking replacement for the pillow block. Always prefer a more manufactured look.
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Kind of nice looking.
http://www.qbcbearings.com/BuyRFQ/PillowB_Mounted_B_NR_I.htm
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I am not crazy about the look of pillow block bearings, but I will smooth them out before final assembly.
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FWIW , It looks OK to me .
Form follows function .
I still think a neat little three or four cylinder would fill that hole nicely . ;)
Pete . :)
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Maybe I'm not understanding? Where is the main drive pulley (that 3-4" pulley with belt that goes to your rear tire sheave) on your jackshaft mounting? Will there be enough clearance for the tire?
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Maybe I'm not understanding? Where is the main drive pulley (that 3-4" pulley with belt that goes to your rear tire sheave) on your jackshaft mounting? Will there be enough clearance for the tire?
I haven't bought one yet. There should be plenty of room for the belt, as my pillow block bearings are mounted right under the frame rails.
Drive pulley will mount right inside of the bearing. I haven't decided on the use of an idler pulley yet. I know it will not be needed, but it just seems right on a simplex.
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They look a hundred times better than the one I used. Mine hold with help from the man upstairs but they are holding for now.
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I too considered incorporating an idler pulley (with tensioner spring) so "belt tension adjustment" wouldn't be critical but instead, ended up making a pair of rear axel tensioners instead, figuring just one less thing to deal with...(pivot point, spring, idler wheel & bearing, etc...)
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Been slow going on the stretch lately. I did make a motor mounting plate, and welded it in. I chose to make the motor not movable, so the exhaust can be built like a stock Simplex and mount to one of the engine mounting bolts. I also used a holesaw to make a hole for the front and rear oil drains, so there shouldn't be much mess when draining the oil.
I also profiled the bearing blocks on the belt sander, and I think they look much better now. Not so blocky, more streamlined.
The last picture is my new Tig welder that my wife bought me for Christmas! I can't wait to learn what I am doing with it. LOL
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never tried TIG welding but we have a couple of that exact same model at work and the guys love it.
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never tried TIG welding but we have a couple of that exact same model at work and the guys love it.
Tom, did one of the guys you work with weld your tank? That has some nice welds on it!
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yes. welded it before I even bought the roller bike. I formed it and tacked it up.
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I don't know , Rick . It looks like you don't have enough room for that TIG ... You can send it to me for 'storage' . ;)
Pete . :)
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you will want to prep steel by removing any scale. impurities directly effect the outcome. will need to sand or grind were welding at.
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you will want to prep steel by removing any scale. impurities directly effect the outcome. will need to sand or grind were welding at.
Thanks Tom, I know that cleanliness is very important in Tig. I still need to get a pure argon tank and some filler rod before I try it out.
If anyone is considering the HF welding cabinet, I highly recommend it. The only part that I thought sucks on it are the wheels. I had a nice pair of swivel casters laying around that I used, and threw the ones that came with it in a box.
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I don't know , Rick . It looks like you don't have enough room for that TIG ... You can send it to me for 'storage' . ;)
Pete . :)
Don't worry Pete, I will find a place for it. My next house is going to have a detached workshop for sure. The wife doesn't like the fumes from grinding, welding and painting.
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I don't know , Rick . It looks like you don't have enough room for that TIG ... You can send it to me for 'storage' . ;)
Pete . :)
Don't worry Pete, I will find a place for it. My next house is going to have a detached workshop for sure. The wife doesn't like the fumes from grinding, welding and painting.
Well , I tried . :)
Maybe a fan blowing out a window would help with fumes ?
But , a real shop is a big plus .
Pete , :)
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Your stretch is really looking good Rick, motor really looks at home on the new plate. RC
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Lots and lots of coffee really helps your hand while tig welding also. LOL. I prefer to use my X2 magnification lens for TIG welding at work. Allows me to keep a better "eye" on the "keyhole" effect for better penetration, especially on AC for aluminum
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Have you fitted the carb and filter in there yet? It looks really close to the shaft. You may be running into a problem.
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He's got a brand new welder that can solve that problem , Reese . ;)
Pete . :)
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Have you fitted the carb and filter in there yet? It looks really close to the shaft. You may be running into a problem.
Carb is on motor. I have 4" from back of carb to the jackshaft. I will make an adapter pipe from the carb that bends 90 degrees down and adapt to a stock simplex air filter. I will have the air filter looking relatively stock.
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Are the bearings on those pillow blocks 5/8 inside?
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Are the bearings on those pillow blocks 5/8 inside?
No, 3/4". They are available in many sizes though.
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Ok I see the carb now. I guess with the extra length you have the room to move around. Looking good so far.
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Ok I see the carb now. I guess with the extra length you have the room to move around. Looking good so far.
Reese, it's always good to have extra length! lol
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BTW Rick Kodo's on the purchase of the Lincoln welder. Puts my Eastwood to shame but my rig is backed with a new mig with a plasma cutter as s a wingman.
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BTW Rick Kodo's on the purchase of the Lincoln welder. Puts my Eastwood to shame but my rig is backed with a new mig with a plasma cutter as s a wingman.
I would like to get a plasma cutter one of these days also. I have had my Lincoln mig for more than 20 years and have never had an issue with it. One of the best tools I have ever purchased. I hope the Tig is just as reliable.
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Looking good Rick. I have the exhaust that my brother made for the stock motor on my bike just hanging in my garage. It isn't exactly like the stock simplex exhaust, but is close. Think you could adapt it to fit yours??
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Looking good Rick. I have the exhaust that my brother made for the stock motor on my bike just hanging in my garage. It isn't exactly like the stock simplex exhaust, but is close. Think you could adapt it to fit yours??
Maybe, but I am going to build one from the ground up. With the stretched frame, the pipes will need to be longer.
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Got some parts in from Wayne a couple of days ago. I ordered one of his kickstart kits for the clone engine, and have adapted it to the Honda GC motor. As some that have used the kit know, Wayne supplies a plate that slips between the motor and the engine mounting plate. This plate has the shaft on it. I decided not to use this, but instead make my own shaft, and weld it directly to my motor mount. As Wayne's plate is 3/16", and my plate is 3/8", I had to removed 3/16" from the top of the shaft so it would have the proper distance between the pinion and sector gears. Putting the flat spot on the shaft also gave me a much better fit up to weld the shaft to the motor mount.
I will also shorten the pinion gear to move the kickstart closer to the flywheel, and it will come to a rest on the stock simplex kick return plate.
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Rick I really like the look of this kick started & am really interested in watching your progress on the complete build. I have a bad shoulder & pull starts are off the table as a design, plus it's not a pretty sight to see an old guy bent over pull starting his pride and joy.
I am sold on the Honda clones however & eventually I'd like to build a drop loop Indian board tracker single with a small 160 cc clone & a constant velocity belt primary to final chain. Kick starter is a must have before beginning such a build & looks as though this is the answer, probably build my own after you've solved all MY problems lol. Rick C.
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Rick ,
Maybe it's too early , but , I'm having a hard time imagining how the flywheel fits into that set up .
Pete . :)
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Rick ,
Maybe it's too early , but , I'm having a hard time imagining how the flywheel fits into that set up .
Pete . :)
Pete, I don't understand your question. The flywheel is on the motor???
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Ha . I told you it was too early ...
I didn't recognize the flywheel as being such . DUH ...
Agreed , that kicker can go a lot closer .
Sorry for exposing you ( all ) to my confusion .
At least you'll get a bit of neck exercise from shaking your heads in disbelief . LOL
Pete . :)
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As anyone who has built a simplex without the stock motor knows, the brake rod gets in the way. On the clone conversions, what most people do is just raise the motor high enough to let the brake rod pass underneath. In the case of upright motors, this is really not practical, as you run out of room up top. I also feel that the motor should stay as low as possible for a better center of gravity.
I spent a lot of time looking at solutions, but each has their own set of issues. I wanted the brake rod up above the frame rails for safety reasons. I have seen some that are so low they look like they would catch on a speed bump or pothole, with disastrous results.
So check out the pictures and see what you think of my solution. It is not welded up yet, but I feel confident that it is safe and sound.
What I forgot to show is the bell crank that will go in the rear frame rail to transfer the brake rod from outside the frame to inside.
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I like that design and don't see anything that might go wrong .
I probably would have just tacked the transfer pivot a bit farther back and under the frame tube , but maybe that would interfere with the wheel ???
Not that it'll be needed , but , you could increase the leverage and / or amount of pedal travel .
Pete . :)
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I like that design and don't see anything that might go wrong .
I probably would have just tacked the transfer pivot a bit farther back and under the frame tube , but maybe that would interfere with the wheel ???
Not that it'll be needed , but , you could increase the leverage and / or amount of pedal travel .
Pete . :)
Pete, I had mocked it up just under the frame, but I didn't like the way it looked, and it could get caught on something. Insetting it into the frame rail just looked so much cleaner, and nothing to get snagged on.
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As long as you have enough travel it should work. Looks better than the way mine was done by going under.
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Hmm, I got lucky (I guess) because I didn't have to do anything except bend the stainless brake rod just a tiny bit in order to miss the motor mount bolt head (under the plate) when the brake is engaged.
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Hmm, I got lucky (I guess) because I didn't have to do anything except bend the stainless brake rod just a tiny bit in order to miss the motor mount bolt head (under the plate) when the brake is engaged.
You used Wayne's motor mount, correct? He designed it to lift the motor high enough for the brake rod to pass under. Like I said in the first post, this works on the lay down style Honda GX and clone motors, but not with an upright motor. The Honda GC motor I am using will look much more Simplex like than those rear facing cylinder motors. The look I am trying to achieve is to keep it as close to stock Simplex as possible, but with a modern power plant.
I could have just used a Morse cable, but I didn't think that was in keeping with "The Look".
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Gotcha...Your right, I missed that. Sorry.
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Well thought out & your reasoning for positioning above the plate are sound. Kick start looks killer on the clone. RC
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I got the kick start and the brakes all buttoned up. They both work real well. I move the kick starter in about 1/2, so it now sits on the stock resting point on the frame. I am mulling ideas for a flywheel cover. Leading the list now is an 8" x 2" aluminum cake pan. I will drill the center out of it so the pinion gear can pass through and make a small cover for that. Just need to figure out how to mount it to the engine.
As for the brakes, I need to make an attachment point for a return spring. Should be simple to spin one up on the lathe and weld it on.
As a note, I have nothing hanging down lower than stock, which to me was important from a safety standpoint!
Only 5 months to Portland!
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Wayne has the small cover that attaches to the side cover that keeps from exposing the pinion gear. Might be nice so as to keep your Simplex looking like a Simplex.
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Wayne has the small cover that attaches to the side cover that keeps from exposing the pinion gear. Might be nice so as to keep your Simplex looking like a Simplex.
Did not know Wayne had that available. I will definitely get one in the next order. Thanks Tom!
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Here is my flywheel cover. I tapped 3 holes on the engine case for mounting points. I also removed a few parts of the engine case that were not needed, and profiled a couple of the cooling fins to match the others.
With a pinion cover on there, I think it will look decent enough.
Next thing to think about is the exhaust. I will be using a front "muffler", as per Simplex, but not sure what I will do with the pipes.
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Cleans it up a bit . Will you be covering the coil, Rick ?
Pete . :)
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Cleans it up a bit . Will you be covering the coil, Rick ?
Pete . :)
I am considering it. I don't want something that looks too bulky though.
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Nice J O B!
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Really looking good Rick, with the factory cover off, and kick start it looks like a "proper" vintage cycle engine. I'm impressed with what you've got going on & most are already familiar with how dependable & great these Honda's really are! Rick C.
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While waiting on tube bends to build the exhaust, I made some flanges for the exhaust and the air filter adapter. I am going to mount the stock simplex air filter down low just like original. Being that the carb is mounted high, I am using a 90 degree bend to lower it and turn it to face outwards. I also cut a piece of 4" OD stainless tube to the proper length, and will make end caps. Being a 4 stroke, I was thinking of stuffing some stainless mesh into the canister to act as a muffler. Is this a viable idea to help quiet the motor, or will I just be chocking it off?
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Rick ,
I think the stainless mesh might be alright if you leave access to change it .
I have removable 'caps' on my muffler and Course steel wool inside . It does a decent job of muffling the tone , but it also packs and becomes more dense with contaminants . That's on the OEM 2 stroke . I would think a four stroke would / should burn cleaner .
On the other side , permanent baffle plates would likely last longer than you'd care about .
Tuning the muffler will be the biggest challenge .
Pete . :)
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Rick ,
I think the stainless mesh might be alright if you leave access to change it .
I have removable 'caps' on my muffler and Course steel wool inside . It does a decent job of muffling the tone , but it also packs and becomes more dense with contaminants . That's on the OEM 2 stroke . I would think a four stroke would / should burn cleaner .
On the other side , permanent baffle plates would likely last longer than you'd care about .
Tuning the muffler will be the biggest challenge .
Pete . :)
Pete, why did you put steel wool in yours? I thought the stock mufflers are just empty cans?
I will not have access inside my can when it is done, but I thought either stainless or copper would last a long time. I think these 4 stroke motors burn very clean, so I am not too worried about contaminants.
I always thought 4 stroke motors were not very fussy when it came to mufflers, but 2 stroke motors could be tuned through the size of the pipe/resonator?
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To cap the ends of the canister, I cut some discs out of scrape 16 gauge I had laying around. I then domed them using a planishing hammer I built last winter. Check out the results and the hammer.
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From all I've read , the stock mufflers were / are empty . They might have some pipe extending into the muffler can , but , I wouldn't think much .
I used steel wool to tune down the exhaust tone , which was very harsh / raspy . I have 2 short pipes , about the same length as on the shorty OEM mufflers . If I'm not mistaken , the OEM shorty has only a single outlet pipe .
The longer outlet pipe has a bit more restriction than the shorter and therefore a bit quieter .
In my previous post , I meant tuning for tone / sound rather than performance .
In the small 4 stroke motors , almost anything , within reason , can be hung off the exhaust port . I suppose you could 'tune' for better performance using anti reversion technology . I'm not sure any gain would be realized , but , it wouldn't hurt , either . Basically , extending the header pipe into your muffler can should be effective .
Here's an article that should help with your exhaust system :
http://blog.jpcycles.com/2010/07/will-i-need-to-rejet-when-i-change-my-pipes/
The author is talking about Harley motorcycles , but you'll get the idea .
I'd like to build an expansion chamber for my OEM 2 stroke just to see what gains could be had . But , that would be hard to do and still retain a factory appearance .
Pete . :)
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Pete, you are correct, the shorty is a single pipe. I don't think they are loud at all. In my estimation, the 2 long pipes are much deeper and throaty sounding.
When I built the Truck with the clone motor, I did not put a muffler on it right away. That engine, with a 30" pipe on it, was so loud it was obnoxious! I welded a simple mower muffler on it and it was so much nicer to my ears.
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I would put some coarse mesh in the canister and not look back. A 4 stroke will never care. Thats my opinion.
I should be hanging out in Speonk with you!. Your Stretch is looking great! I need to go fire up one of my bikes up!!!!
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I would put some coarse mesh in the canister and not look back. A 4 stroke will never care. Thats my opinion.
I should be hanging out in Speonk with you!. Your Stretch is looking great! I need to go fire up one of my bikes up!!!!
Thanks Tom.
I spent a few hours today learning a tiny bit about Tig welding. I made some really ugly welds, and a couple that were nice. Reminds me of my younger days, when I gas welded in a muffler shop. Some more practice over the next week or two and I should be able to weld the exhaust together, without making it a complete mess.
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Got the exhaust mocked up. Has good clearance all around, even the side kick stand used on these earlier models. I also got it tucked up high, right under the kickstart shaft. Maybe by next week I can find the time to weld it up.
Only 4 months to Portland! I hope I can at least get it ridable for the meet.
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That looks like it might just work , Rick . ;)
Pete . :)
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Stretch is looking great. I understand building in your spare time is a slow go but often the ideas flow more freely in between work sessions & things just turn out better as a result. You've got this project rolling down hill with the right momentum already...objects in motion tend to continue in motion & you have this one well in hand. Rick C.
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Looks good Rick, when we built the exhaust for my original motor we had the tail pipes run along the frame....looked good, but wasn't enough clearance. looks like you done it right.
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Thanks James. I was trying to make sure there would be no rattles in the system. I am going to finish up the exhaust this weekend. I am starting to run short on time before Portland.
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Finished up the exhaust system and built an adapter to mount the stock Simplex air filter in approximately the same area it would be on a stock Simplex.
I have been using my new Tig welder, but I suck at it. Hopefully with more practice I can make some of those nice welds that others seem to do no problem. LOL
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Rick , Those almost look factory . I mean except for the the sucky tig welds . (http://www.jeepforum.com/ubb/laugh2.gif)
Seriously . I like them both . Nicely done . (http://www.jeepforum.com/ubb/thumbs.gif)
Pete . :)
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Rick, does it appear you will be able to use one of Wayne's pinion covers for your kicker set-up?
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Tom, funny you should ask. I got a parts delivery yesterday, which included a pinion cover. This morning I narrowed the pinion gear and moved the kicker in closer to the cover. It is going to work like factory! The only thing I will have to do is use an adhesive to attach the cover as I am running too close to the flywheel for rivets. I am thinking double sided carpet tape to hold it on.
Another issue I have run into is the throttle and choke cables. They are not long nor flexible enough to connect directly to the carb. I am thinking about building a small bell crank for each, which should solve the problem.
Updates next week as I will have no more time until then as my daughters graduate from college this weekend!
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Congrats on the grads! 3M automotive double sided tape on Ebay it's used to mount auto side moldings. 200 mph tape. Rick C.
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Thanks Rick! I will order some
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Rick c beat me to it . That 3M molding tape should hold it . I wouldn't think that that little cover would get warm enough to loosen the tape adhesive .
Graduation ... that only takes a couple hours . That leaves about two days of time to work on the bike . ;)
Congats to you and your daughter .
Pete . :)
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2 graduations 400 miles from home!
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In that case , double the congrats for the kids and maybe quadruple it for you , for going the distance . :)
Pete . :)
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Rick the 3m tape can be baked for 30 min. at 250 degrees so not good for exhaust manifolds. lol. It's fuel resistant as well. Sets up to near maximum hold in 72 hours. Application requires a clean surface, minimum of 15 lbs pressure (briefly applied by hand or roller) & don't stretch the tape which thins the foam and reduces bonding strength. We use this stuff all the time on large trucks, mainly gravel & rock haulers, which travel some mean paths into oil well & construction sites etc. and even heavy exterior parts don't fall off!!
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Rick the 3m tape can be baked for 30 min. at 250 degrees so not good for exhaust manifolds. lol. It's fuel resistant as well. Sets up to near maximum hold in 72 hours. Application requires a clean surface, minimum of 15 lbs pressure (briefly applied by hand or roller) & don't stretch the tape which thins the foam and reduces bonding strength. We use this stuff all the time on large trucks, mainly gravel & rock haulers, which travel some mean paths into oil well & construction sites etc. and even heavy exterior parts don't fall off!!
I knew it was good stuff , but that^ is very impressive .
Pete . :)
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One thing I forgot to mention: on larger & or heavier pieces use more tape, especially if you just have the narrow width tape. After you gain confidence in the tapes bonding strength you'll probably want to keep several rolls in varying widths on hand. Rick C.
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This is what the pinion gear cover will look like when attached. It is just laying there in the pictures and will not be made permanent until final assembly. I have plenty of clearance and it look pretty factory to me.
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Agreed , Rick ... Factory enough .
Now to get that coil covered or maybe just painted to match ? I think a cover would be better , both looks and protection .
Be easy to fab ... just a bit of aluminum flashing and a few pop rivets , done .
(http://vitality-healthcenter.com/clients/80/images/VITALITY_TwoCents.png) worth ... ;)
Pete . :)
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Some nice work Rick. Air cleaner, kick start & now the pinion cover on the engine housing all look great. Your stretch is going to be sweet. Rick C.
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Aren't those pinion covers nice? Love the air intake set-up. It's gonna be a head turner!
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I read through the complete thread as I am going to use a GC 160. Nice work. I guess I missed where you said what the flywheel cover is made of. Did Wayne supply it? Aluminum pot? Ever what it is, it looks great. I'm a welder by trade and I am admiring your work. Good job. Did you happen to make a template of the motor plate? I read where Wayne was going to build a motor plate for the GC motors. I talked to him Friday and he has not. Wondering why if I'm a welder I was asking for template? Work out of town 6 and 7 days a week and it would certainly be a time saver. I am going to mirror your setup on my build. Copying someone's work is a compliment in my way of thinking. Good job Carryall. If ok I would like to pm you and ask some more questions. Thanks.
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The cover is an aluminum baking pan. I removed the rolled edge on my disc sander.
I am hoping to have the bike running soon. I am waiting on a set of tires, and I will assemble it and start it up.
Glad you like it!
Rick
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Built some front fender braces. Since I like the curve of the late model style, I decided to see if I could bend the 3/4" x 1/8" flat bar like they did at the factory.
Well, what do you think?
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Aren't those pinion covers nice? Love the air intake set-up. It's gonna be a head turner!
Sorry I missed this Tom. Wayne's pinion cover is very nice! Thanks for letting me know he had them available.
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"Built some front fender braces. Since I like the curve of the late model style, I decided to see if I could bend the 3/4" x 1/8" flat bar like they did at the factory.
Well, what do you think?"
If ya hadn't said anything , I'da thought they were OEM . (http://www.cb750c.com/modules/Forums/images/smiles/thumbsup.gif)
Pete . :)
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Got my tires yesterday and got them mounted this morning. Here is the bike on the ground. It definitely feels larger. I hope to get it up out of the basement and assembled for a test run some time next week.
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Lookin' good , Rick .
But for the seat ... It seems , from these pics , that the seat is too far forward .
And , the crash bar ground clearance seems a bit low , too .
Maybe it's just me ?
Pete . :)
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Lookin' good , Rick .
But for the seat ... It seems , from these pics , that the seat is too far forward .
And , the crash bar ground clearance seems a bit low , too .
Maybe it's just me ?
Pete . :)
It's just you! Lol
The seat is in the stock position relative to the handlebars, but is forward a little in relation to the footpads. This is caused by the neck stretch. I may try moving the seat back an inch or two after I get to ride it.
The crash bars are actually 1/2" higher than my other 2 bikes. I think what is throwing the perspective off a little is the lack of a rear fender. I have not had time to make a better one yet, so I may bolt on the one I did make last winter and run with that this summer. I also am planning on a longer rear rack to take up some of the empty space.
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Ha . I had to look twice at the first pic , almost thought it was a La Ray .
And , the longer rack is a good idea .
Pete . :)
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OK Pete, I fitted up a fender. It is just mocked in place for now, as I have to build a front mount. I think this ties it together better. I also laid the engine in there to fill out the look.
Seat height wound up being 34", about 4" higher than stock.
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AH , yes ... Much better definition .
And , maybe with the longer rack , you might leave the seat alone and have it look pretty good .
Pete . :)
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Looking good 8)
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Rick your definitely going to like riding your stretch & it's already looking good. The added length in wheelbase should make a dramatic improvement in ride & higher speed stability, important 'cause mid 50's to low 60's should be no problem with the power upgrade. I'm excited for you!
I sat looking at the photos this a.m. & the fenders make a huge improvement as will the addition of a rear rack (no pun intended) the higher seat position also allows enough room for a nice leather tool bag should one be so inclined to do so.
Ride & controls positioning is so personal that you would be wise to ride & adjust as you see fit...it's going to be a beauty when you lay on some color and polish. We all know your skill in making your Simplex builds stand out.
Rick C.
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As I was assembling the bike, I didn't like the look of the late model steering plate. The square sides of the plate look out of sync with the rest of the bike. I made a template from one of my earlier bikes and cut the curves into them. I think it looks much better this way. I forgot to take a before picture, so I just used magnets to hold the cut off pieces in place for a before and after look.
What say you gents?
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I figure I am a gent so I will answer! It Looks swell!!
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Agreed , I figure you're a gent too , Tom . :)
As for the plate , you did good there , Rick . The cut outs create a much better flow , not to mention the fact that you'll have a much better view of bumps, potholes and critters you'll notice a bit too late . :D
Pete . :)
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Up out of the basement! Man, it looks like a giant compared to the stock bike next to it.
The story goes that Paul Treen had a friend that played in the NBA and really wanted a Servi-Cycle. For his birthday Paul presented him with this bike, specially built at the Simplex factory for him! LOL
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Ha . Folks might just go for that . ;)
Pete . :)
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The Stretch made its maiden voyage today! I took it around the block a few times. Seems to handle well, no major issues. I need to check all the nuts and bolts as the air cleaner started to fall off. I just had regular nuts on, no lock washers or loc-tite. The throttle is not as smooth as I would like, so I will look into that after Portland. The exhaust is really nice sounding, very mellow.
Check out the pictures.
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Looks like it's coming along nicely , Rick .
Did the rear fender pivot down some to the rear ? Seems it should be farther around to the front . I bet it just me , again .
Pete . :)
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Looks like it's coming along nicely , Rick .
Did the rear fender pivot down some to the rear ? Seems it should be farther around to the front . I bet it just me , again .
Pete . :)
Good eye Pete. I drilled the hole too low, and will drill another and move it up in the rear.
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I like it very much. looks good with all the drive on the left. eric
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Thanks Eric.
Took care of a couple of small details this morning. I rotated the rear fender forward about 2" Looks better. I also added the pinion cover with the 3M trim tape. Worked great! Thanks Rick C!
I also lowered the seat about an 1 1/2", which feels better to me. I will ride it a while a decide if I want to go a little lower before welding it up permanently.
At least I met my goal of having it running for Portland. See you guys next week.
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Lookin' better , Rick .
I see you just switched seat springs . Always more than one way around a bush . ;)
I bet that fender could go forward some more and look even better . I think the OEM was set with the fender at or just below the lower frame rail . That would also bring the fender stays a lot closer to being in line with and perpendicular to the frame .
Just thinking on the keyboard .
Pete . :)
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Pete, the seat spring had nothing to do with lowering the seat. I just changed it to see if there was any difference in spring rate that I could feel. There wasn't, that I could detect.
I lowered the seat by bending the old fender mounting location down and relocating the top mount of the spring back about 1". Looks good, but will definitely need a cross brace in the long term.
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Now that you say , I see there's a difference in the before and after pics .
Assumptions got me again .
Pete . :)
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Rick I haven't been up to much lately but I've watched the "stretch" project with interest and anticipation & it's really coming together well & timed to make a showing at Portland. It will draw a lot of attention & more than a few questions as well; I'll wager! Have a fun & safe time of fellowship... of course take many photos.
Adhesive fasteners certainly help make possible clean, secure & creative fabrications, which were in the past not worth the trouble, that are now quite simple to achieve. Rick C.
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Looking good. Tell me about the front and rea fenders?? Source and size of them 3" x 26"??
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I made those fenders in my shop with an English wheel and a shrinker.