Conversion

[Sonrisers]

Carryall, Wayne also told me to make sure the jack shaft was set at 8 5/8 "

[carryall]

  Check your paperwork on measurement but pretty sure it's 8-11/16 to 8-3/4" when belt is new.  You can also check it with clutch face off and belt squeezed down around brass sleeve.  Should be just enough clearance/space (1/8") to allow free spinning. (Also explained in Comet paperwork)  Rick...you are correct in observing the lean condition of the HF carbs. (both types)  I swapped out jets to a .035 (richer) and replaced the emulsion tube with a gx140 (also richer) A MUST DO when anyone puts on free flowing air filter and exhaust.  It really helped with idle, power and speed.  Oddly enough tho, even after that, I still need to "half choke" for hot starts. Always "pops off" first try either way.  Just a quirk with these engines I guess.

[socalsimplex]

does anybody have pics of the HF212 predator with Waynes jackshaft set up? I got my shipment in of the kick start, jack shaft and engine adapter plate... i just wanna see how it all links up.

thanks

[oil-lamp]

Did you look back a page sonrisers has a few photos.

[Sonrisers]

I don't have any close ups yet, and have to leave now, I'll try to get some better pics when I get time. As far as the set up of everything, mounting plate first, then kicker plate on top of that, then motor bolts to those. Jack shaft is just the pulley and bearings, mount those and wait til belts and clutch are mounted, get everything lined up and then tighten the set screws. The torque converter is simple, read instructions that came with, or just put it together like a puzzle. I had to bend my brake linkage rod so it would clear one of the motor mounting bolts, If using the factory hf muffler, you will have to do some tweaking as well as the factory air breather to get motor in frame. I used an aftermarket air cleaner and built my own exhaust, using the flange I cut off of the muffler. Keep us posted on how things are going.

[carryall]

here's a close up of clutch side set-up.  You'll have to wait for kick-start side as I'm currently waiting to modifying one of Waynes before I install it.

[socalsimplex]

carryall, that shroud you have mounted on front of the motor protecting the pulley is awesome! is that something that you made?

[Sonrisers]

Make me one while you're at it.lol

[socalsimplex]

The jackshaft bar that Wayne sent is very long. it sticks out the side a lot. Is this something that can be trimmed down so it doesn't stick out so far? I don't want to compromise the integrity or balance of the shaft.....

[carryall]

shouldn't need any trimming.  After you have the driven clutch aligned to the engine's clutch, the shaft will only extend approx. 3/8" to 3/4" past the carrier bearing "cage" on the other (recoil) side. 

[Bruce]

Carryall....I'm curious what speeds that bike runs with the governed small stock carb?  Does it hop up on the governor right away?

[oil-lamp]

Social, cut what you want just be sure to re dress the end smooth again. My shaft will be about a inch or better than the shaft thay was on the comet clutch.

Yea I think someone need to do a little gutting on a governor.

[carryall]

I can get about 45-50mph "top-speed" with the governor set-up I have running.  I moved the linkage to another hole on the arm to allow it a bit more than the original and messed with the spring.  The carb has been re-jetted (.035) and also has the 140 E-tube along with the A/F and exhaust being completely opened up.  I changed it to run a 4.25" secondary pulley and the #2 setting on driven clutch. (works great at my weight and the relatively flat roads here)  Gutting the governor is just running down the rabbit hole in my experience...My first engine I had removed the governor but the engine started knocking after less than 100 miles, so I exchanged it for another HF212, and left the governor in this one.  No plans,( or need) to remove it considering it runs/drives as good as the first engine did except the "top end" ability. (which is WAY FASTER than an original either way) I figure... why go thru the trouble of pulling a governor, which then involves the cost of adding an aluminium flywheel, which leads to the need to update/install the better valve springs (18lbs.) to prevent valve float, and then needing to buy a pulse carb to feed it, all that trouble/cost/labor for a $100 engine in order to get another 10mph faster, so I can tear it up sooner? I figured, If I want to go fast, I'll drive my Kawasaki ZR7.  Not to mention, I have less than a grand into it, and want to keep it that way for awhile.   

[oil-lamp]

Finally some good data I can use. Was that 18lbs springs that was in it already or did you up it to 18lbs. springs?  Enquiring minds want to know.

[carryall]

You'll need to buy the 18lbs. springs. (cheap, around $10/set) because the stock ones will float over 4000rpm.  If a person wants to do the "race upgrade", I'd recommend installing a different cam at the same time you pull the governor as long as it's open?  Some bigger cams you will need to dremel clearance, some mild cams you don't.