Simplex 5 speed build

[carryall]

Yep, exactly.  It comes in various widths and you can also make/incorporate strips without adhesive using shears and heavier gauge copperfor bracing, support.  Making a stained glass panel is like making a jigsaw puzzle essentially. 

[ndian22]

I really like jig saw puzzles as well especially when a special piece just falls into place.

Acrylic adhesive has special properties as well, bonds well, water proof, chemical resistance is high as is it's ability to withstand moderately high temps. Foil combined with acrylic is quite useful it seems. RC

[ndian22]

I conducted a test on some acrylic adhesive, an automotive type, bonded two plates of aluminum and allowed a few hours to cure partially, then baked at 550 degrees for about an hour. No smoking or melting occurred & the bond was intact. Only surface prep was to wipe the plates with alcohol. Next test is to copper wrap a header tube, bonded with acrylic & see what transpires.

Copper exhaust parts, carb breather housing and another motor housing cover fabricated from flat plate & hammered to proper contour. Probably leave at least part of the polished flat for some type of vinyl design, medallion or emblem.

Some of my vendors are dropping the ball on my "small orders" it's become a waiting game & of course when I've ordered the wrong part that also delays a bit as well! Rick C.

[carryall]

 That's going to be a pretty "sweet" looking exhaust tip.  Question: Are you planning to "start and Run it" (the engine) in its stock OEM configuration first, for "break-in", and to make sure everything is "good to go?  Then "re-do" the intake, exhaust, etc., so you can judge and/or adapt to any tuning changes that may occur from the modifications? (i.e. re-jet, A/F mixture)  Only reason I ask is, I've made the mistake of doing more than 1 "modification/change" at a time and then having to "back-track" in order to solve which "one" it was that was causing an issue.   

[ndian22]

Excellent point & yes I'll approach the initial start up and run in with care. I too have added my "good designs" to a new build and found out after much late night oil that I'd not only gotten the horse behind the carriage, he was harnessed up in reverse as well.
I normally begin by spraying a bit of high grade lubricant into the cylinder when I gap the plug. At this point I haven't even rotated the crank...moving dry rings on a dry cylinder is bad.Shipping oil has been drained and both trap filters cleaned. Single viscosity cycle oil used for initial break in of about an hour or so. If it runs and sounds good I'll drain the oil and again service the oil traps. Read the plug & adjust as I go. Of course if it runs crappy I'll have already looked at the plug etc. One never quite knows what to expect on start up so I tend to suspect everything, but adjust one suspected problem at a time. The copper exhaust system will be added after initial run in. Probably just use a stub of some 6 to 8 inches at first.

I also should probably order in an extra CDI (known to frequently fail on initial startup), coil & a selection of Mikuni parts as well though I think I have a selection for the carb here some place. I also bought a Honda shop manual CD that looks to be an excellent replication of the original...not a second party publisher!

Hammered some fuel tank side plates as well this a.m. Rick C.

[ndian22]

Got 'em looking like "baby moons". Side plates for the clutch side and steer plate cover also shown. All the copper parts seem to fit up nicely including the flat panels behind the fuel tank. Think I'll make a copper eyebrow for the headlight and cover the air shock/air spring in copper as well. Still considering using copper to accent the seat strap spring & steer head.  Parts I'm waiting on estimated to arrive sometime next week. Then hope to get the Gator to growl! Rick C.

[ndian22]

Added primary chain tension roller and welded some 1.25" steel pads on the legs of the drive off stand for more stability of the bike at rest. Next comes the exhaust header so I can finally attempt startup. RC

[ndian22]

Trying to re-size photos

[ndian22]

Re-size

[pd]

640 x 480 is a good size for forums . We can see the whole image without having to scroll .

Thanks from those of us with little 15" lap tops ... and the poor saps , I mean chaps , that have to try viewing on a so called smart phone .

Pete .

[Ricks]

640 x 480 is a good size for forums . We can see the whole image without having to scroll .

Thanks from those of us with little 15" lap tops ... and the poor saps , I mean chaps , that have to try viewing on a so called smart phone .

Pete .

When we first started this forum, I would try to get the members to resize the photos so there was no scrolling, but I was unsuccessful in this endeavor.  I couldn't believe there were people who knew less than I about computers, and even I could resize a photo! LOL.

I have resized many of the photos on here, but I just don't have the time anymore.

[carryall]

Have you considered some sort of chain guard, maybe something that "flows" from the engine back to the rear sprocket?

[ndian22]

Rick & Pete.  It just took me a year to snap to the sizing problem and just a few minutes to figure it out, my bad with apologies to those trying to view my over sized shots.  I now need to improve my camera skills, nothing that good lighting, camera and a tripod wouldn't improve, but decent composition is probably beyond hope for the Old guy.

Chain guard.. yes quite probable, though I'm undecided on design. The co-axle shaft is a logical mounting position for a circular disc shaped guard of approximately 3 inch diameter held in place by a 3/4" lock collar, since the axle turns only when pedal power is applied. The pedals themselves keep the legs and feet quite a distance from the chain & sprockets but safety is extremely important.  Rick C.

[carryall]

The "safety" factor aside, I was just think'n you could make a cool looking one that would "tie in" both colors/materials.  Even a minimalist "cage type" using brass & black 1/8" welding rod, or???  As for posting pics, I recently bought this fancy new Toshiba laptop and haven't got the "hang" of this new "app crap" yet, after using the antiquated Win7 I had previously, (let alone the smartphone I take the pics with). Technology moves fast, me not so much...So, Feel free to fix any/all photos I attempt to post if they're to big in resolution/size PD.  (PS. I did repack my fishtail muffler with that S.S.wool this weekend, and it really knocked down the tone, and volume very nicely if your interested)    

[ndian22]

Glad the SS re-pack turned out well for your fish tail. As to tech savvy I'm just struggling to barely get by. I only recently bought my first smart phone, android and my laptop, a Toshiba also, is 5 years antiquated!! It's been a good one & when I replace I'll probably purchase Toshiba again.

Chain guard on this one is probably just about looks unless a dog misses the leg and hits the chain saw or I start riding in long skirts. Should attempt a start up this week. I'll finish the exhaust stub then give it a try.

I'll also use Stainless packing in my copper exhaust...still haven't determined how to route the whole affair high, low, left side or right, short or long pipe or just a short stinger in front of the engine center, left or right.  Rick C..