Brake Reline

[.38 Spcl]

Does anyone know of where I can get my brake shoes relined? It is for the English hub for a 1938.

[pd]

Check with a decent brake shop . They should be able to get the job done .

Or , I think Wayne sells linings .

[.38 Spcl]

Check with a decent brake shop . They should be able to get the job done .

Or , I think Wayne sells linings .

Thanks! I didn't think anyone did that anymore!

[Mike Sal]

Are they the same size as the later Simplex brakes?  If you look in the "wheels & tires" section, in the thread titled "Brakes", I've got some step by step photos of re-lining brake shoes.  Wayne sell new linings, but I dont know if they fit the early models too.
Mike Sal

[Ricks]

Post some pictures!  These early bikes are very rare and we would like to see what the early brake looks like.

[Ricks]

Here are the pics Mike sent me of the brake parts.

[pd]

Those parts are well rusted . You might consider dropping them into a vat of Oxalic acid .

Here's an excerpt from my build thread :

I rec'd my order of wood bleach ( Oxalic Acid ) and thought it best to test it before I subjected my fuel tank for rust removal .

I mixed a rather mild solution for the test . Here are some before and after pics :

Before :



After :



The parts looked almost this good after just a couple of hours bath , but I left them in over night to see if the deep reaches would be 'taken care of ' . The pulley was totally rusted .

I pulled the parts and rinsed them in a bath of hot water , then let them dry . The Oxalic acid seems to eat rust and leave a protective coating . I wiped some of that coating off the rear brake plate . Also note that the acid does not effect painted parts ( a big plus ) .

This was an experiment for me . My Simplex had a bit of rust forming in the gas tank . Not too bad considering the bike is 55 years old . I'd read that different acids worked for removing rust .

I used muriatic acid to clean my XT350 tank with decent results . That tank did flash rust and I retreated it and then neutralized the acid ASAP . It still formed a small amount of flash rust . I'm running it with an in line paper fuel filter and haven't had any problems .

The Simplex tank is a bit more rare and harder to find . I was reluctant to use muriatic acid in it for those reasons . Through research , I read about oxalic acid , sold as wood bleach . Oxalic acid is a lot safer to work with , but still requires due caution ( READ THE LABEL ) . It's not nearly as toxic as muriatic acid . It does NOT harm painted surfaces . It just eats rust and leaves a protective coating on the steel after being thoroughly rinsed with water .

I used a diluted mixture from what is suggested , which is 12 ounces to 1 gallon of water . I used 12 ounces to 2 gallons of water . Being as the solution was weaker , I left the mixture in the tank twice as long and the results are shown below .

This is what I used :



Here's the rusted tank :



And, here's the tank after being filled with oxalic acid for a couple of days :



This stuff really does work great . I'll use it from now on when treating rust .

[.38 Spcl]

Is this something I would pick up at Home Depot? As rusted as the parts are they still turn free!

[pd]

Wood Bleach ( Oxalic Acid ) ?

Yes , any decent hardware or home improvement store should carry it , or at least be able to get it for you . It's also available on Ebay :
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0&_nkw=Oxalic+Acid+&_sacat=0&_from=R40

[Mike Sal]

Hard to see from the photo, but your existing lining may still be serviceable.  If you do replace them, be mindfull that they probably contain asbestos.
Mike Sal

[.38 Spcl]

Thank You! I'm going to pull them apart and clean them up. To see what I have to work with.