General Category => Simplexes with Non-Original Engines => Topic started by: carryall on June 11, 2013, 04:11:41 AM
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Does anyone know if the brass plug/cap, next to the idle speed screw is hiding the air bleed/idle mixture screw underneath? I would like to adjust the idle mixture but no screw is visable and was wondering if that's where it's located and if it can be removed, and how? Thanks if anyone can help. (its the brass cap just underneath the mounting stud)
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I can't make out the plug . :(
You likely already have a manual : http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/68000-68999/68136.pdf
And here's a lot of good reading on the predator 212 : http://tinyurl.com/po5olp4
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post some pictures of how your engine is mounted if you will
Thanks
Tom Sr
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The "manual" is pretty generic and just hits the general maintenance. Looks like the air bleed is factory set and sealed.(Darn EPA and their small engine police) The high speed jet is pretty lean also. May end up going to a bigger one and stronger valve springs along with it for higher RPM's now that the governor is out. I made a new intake manifold for carb to run a free flow air filter and get rid of the outboard motor looking airbox. Just cant decide if I want to vent valve cover vent tube to intake, or just put a filter on it. Probably just filter it and let it vent. Will post pics as it progress's.
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The "manual" is pretty generic and just hits the general maintenance. Looks like the air bleed is factory set and sealed.(Darn EPA and their small engine police) The high speed jet is pretty lean also. May end up going to a bigger one and stronger valve springs along with it for higher RPM's now that the governor is out. I made a new intake manifold for carb to run a free flow air filter and get rid of the outboard motor looking airbox. Just cant decide if I want to vent valve cover vent tube to intake, or just put a filter on it. Probably just filter it and let it vent. Will post pics as it progress's.
It looks like they don't want you to adjust anything on these carbs. My truck tribute will not start unless you choke it, even when hot. After I get it back together, if I have time before Portland, I may look into increasing the size of the jets. I have not done anything to the engine yet, except remove the governor.
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Hey "Rick" when ya get to it, let me know and maybe by then I'll have drilled my jet out and can let you know what size drill/jet will do the trick. I believe the high speed jets are a #70 stock and some of the racing websites say they've had best luck going to #80 up to a #90 depending on if you've opened up the exhaust, 16lb valve springs, timing advance woodruff key, better flywheel, smaller fan, etc... Maybe open up the low speed jet just a tiny bit also, but can't add too much cause the air bleed is "fixed" I'm leaning towards just a "hop-up kit" rather than a stage 1 kit for now. I found some 1" pipe in our shop today for the exhaust, but have to wait till motor is "in" to figure out what I'm going to do. (muffler/no muffler for back pressure and number of bends, etc...I'm thinking a "fishtail tip" would look retro on it tho.
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I ran mine with a tailpipe about 24 inches without a muffler and it was LOUD! I welded a muffler on and it is much more pleasant now.
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first heres a pic of the motor mount... *for the 212cc predator with CVT clutch set up)
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WOW! geat looking piece of machine work! Wish I had the skill and equipment to produce such a piece.
Yoiu wouldn't make another one for a price would you?
Thanks
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Let me finish this one and I may consider it. This one was a ALOT of trial and error. (emphasis on error) LOL. I must have taken the motor and mount in/out at least 5-6 times last night for fitting and such. Then pulled it all apart to remove kickstand and repaint where it was cut off. (in way of jack-shaft clutch) I didn't want to cut rear fender so I had to rotate it back to clear the engine valve cover so that the "notch-out" for original belt drive is seen above frame now. :-\ Going to kinda cover it up tho with the exhaust muffler. Figured while I'm fabricating a exhaust system at work,(notice original manifold flange on floor along with the old kickstand) that I'd make a basic cover for the CVT while I'm at it. (cardboard is great stuff) The engine/trans. and jackshaft are SO TIGHT and close together to the frame along with the drivebelt/wheel, it was "touch and go" that it was all going to fit/work! (sparkplug cap, valve cover, frame, belt, drive wheel pulley, etc, all are within about 3/8 inch of touching something) I've never done a Comet torque convertor before either, so that was all a learning experience assembling and learning how they all work and how to align and adjust also. Still need to find a suitable throttle grip/cable set up and adapt the on/off switch to the handlebars too, but am happy with all the progress I've made in the past day. (got parts Thursday evening and started assembly after work Friday night) Hoping I get to start riding it and breaking in the engine maybe next weekend? We'll see how fast/well things fit and get paint this week?
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pretty much finished up project. Just a little finishing work like relocate the on/off switch and switch out a better throttle cable set-up, etc...then take it for its maiden voyage and break in the motor. (adjust idle and mixture(s) with new jets after I get it on "the road") Not really happy with the look of the clutch guard so I'll make a different designed one next week that's smaller when I get the time. Came out pretty nice I think?
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Not too shabby . ;)
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Looking good! Is that motor plate from Wayne, or did you make your own?
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Added a set of leather bags to carry stuff like tools, etc...
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Those bags add a nice touch . Kind of era correct .
Now you need to install a pair of leather handle bar grips to help balance the look . Maybe suede for better grip , which you'll need with that 212 power plant ... ;)
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What a great looking bike. Makes me want to hurry and get my 53 done
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did you make that exhaust or buy it?
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Looks to me like he bought a few things , bent and welded , tapped and screwed and ended up with what you see .
I like the end product . Plain and simple .
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The exhaust is 1" std wall pipe. I made the "triangle" exhaust flange to match up to the original mount for the muffler which I removed. I had to cut 22degree sections in the pipe and weld/grind to get the bend because it wanted to "kink" in the tubing bender. The muffler is just a standard "small engine" muffler ($10 at NAPA) welded on where I decided to bracket it to the frame. I had to slot the bracket hole so I could move engine back/forth to get the correct dimensions between engine/jackshaft for the CVT clutch set-up. (8-3/4" C to C)