General Category => Simplexes with Non-Original Engines => Topic started by: dw1973 on July 24, 2013, 07:07:15 AM
-
Wonder if the Cushman rubber engine mounts would help lessen the clone engine vibration?
http://dennis-carpenter.com/engine-mount-assembly/p/806493-AS/
-
Dave ,
You need to leave at least one space between the end of your question or sentence and the beginning of a link . ;)
http://dennis-carpenter.com/engine-mount-assembly/p/806493-AS/
I would think the rubber mounts would help .
Pete . :)
-
Done. Thanks Pete.
-
I thought about putting rubber to isolate the engine vibration also, but didn't want to take a chance that the engine would be able to "shift" more easily, and affect the critical distance between the clutches/drive belt. If you choose to adjust the drive belt by moving just your jackshaft tho, it may not be an issue. (but then you'll have to adjust your rear tire to compensate for the jackshaft distance change afterwards)
-
After exchanging my Harbor Freight engine because of a slight knock, I decided to install a 1/8" thick piece of rubber (Simplex mud flap) under the engine mount adapter where it bolts to the original engine mount. I will post my results as to if it lessons the engine vibration any? (bad pic but it's the wavy flap extending out over the original engine locator pins)
-
IMHO, that will not do much, as the vibration will be transmitted through the bolts. You need to isolate the engine from the frame using an isolation mount, like they do on cars and electric motors.
I added a mount at the cylinder head on my 3 wheeler, and that made a big difference in keeping the motor from moving. It still had some vebration that you can feel in your feet.
-
That's what I figured too but figured it may help a bit. The biggest difference I found was just getting the jetting correctly so the motor runs smooth at the higher rpms. Ended up swapping out my emulsion tube from a GC140 and a #35 jet makes the biggest improvement in vibration along with the billet flywheel.
-
I have gotten used to it after racking up some miles....my engine seems to vibrate less at higher rpm's. Some guys I talk to in the minibike crowd said the clones and real Honda's all vibrate to a different degree.
-
Can you post a picture of your bike? Always interested in what other people have done with their imagination and skills.
-
Speaking of vibration. I have a rattle that's driving me NUTS! Sounds like somewhere up front but I know metal to metal contact travels. I have put foam backed tape on all the fender/strut conections, bushings in the springer, pulled the headlight off and tightened the neck bearings but it still persists at certain frequencies. Won't do it with rear wheel off the ground and revved up. I've put a hand on everything I can touch while driving it but can't pin-point the cause. Anyone have any guess? (its not clutch or engine, both have been swapped but still does it)
-
Side stand , maybe ???
-
Brake return spring?
-
Loose nut between the handlebars and the seat! Just kidding!!!
-
Good sugestions and I'll check'em out. (and wear a jock strap LOL) Wish I could simulate the conditions without driving it but only thing I can come up with is to make a set of rollers for the rear tire to run it "in-place" like a dyno. Or find a really big vibrator and shove it up the tail pipe (of the BIKE) and listen? LOL
-
The ching ching sound is most likely the primary drive housing. Mine does it as well.