Jeremy , I bet you a brazillian dollars this could be solved over the phone ,  I figured out that you have a tape measure between the crankshaft counterweight and the crankcase ,    tightening the pulley , ( left hand thread should draw the bearings tight together and the crank should spin free ( unless it is bent , )   does installing the stator plate bind things up ? if so suspect bent crank , ( i have straightened them )  remove parts until crank spins free and give it a few turns as you put the engine back toghether  please feel free to give a call   314 609 6568     Larry.

Hello ,   It's me again ,   I can deal with some flywheel issues,   If not, then there is a guy across town that has great experience with them ,   If I can convince you to send me the busted and /or the parts that you are having trouble with I can get you an estimate within 1 day of receiving them ,,  If no like,  I will ship back for free <      I myself am shure interested to see them up close ,    No hurries      all the best ,   Larry Brown.  314 609 6568

  Hi there ,,, this one got me going also ,    picture this ,   two strokes run on a combination of fuel and air,  ,,,,,,,,fuel consists of gas and oil ,       the carb doesn't know , ( or care )  what the fuel gas mix is , sso it will allow the metered flow of premix in and mix it with the oncoming air,        (stay with me )   more oil in the fuel  mix ,means less gas will be mixed with the oncoming ail ,   result will be more oil but less gas ,  = lean ,  more heat , less power,,   ask a diet bike guy and you'll see     Larry.

Pretty much same grease here ,,, a drop or two of motor oil on the clutch bushing when I check the tires

Hey there    the rocker studs have 3/8  x 24 tpi         fine thread standard , available almost anywhere      british cycle threads  ( 26 tpi n) I think only on axles and steering head ,,,,,, ( I think spoke nipples also )   metric threads on spark plug ,   rest rest of bike fairley normal except  3/4 left hand thread on "m" engine crankshaft ,    regards     Larryu

Hello ! my two cents worth ,    NGK B4h are what I use also ,     the primitave engine won't benefit from the new " cookin dude " plugs  ,,   .015 plug gap is plenty ,   large gaps tax coils ,  If it runs fine there is no need for huge spark clearances ,     also I use opti 2 mix at 50 / 1,   engine runs cool and very little smoke , carbon issues have been almost non existant ,,  don't make mistake of adding oil to mixture ,  extra oil will lean out the mixture ,replacing fuel with oil , which in turn mixed with air , will LEAN the muixture making the engine run hotter, (honest engine ),   no outboard oil either ,    flashpoint only suitable for water cooled engine ,   will become less effictave at air cooled engine tempatures <    ,,,break in engine slow over a long time and STOP if any sign of seizure (loss of power ) is noticed ,    a liottle time on the side of the road will pay off in little or no repairs        happt riding Y'all     Larry.

  !/4  inch die grinder with 3 inch  "whizz wheel " does wonders for fast weld removal , It's my best freind in frame work  ,, I uaually discard the shaft and buzz another up in a lathe ,,,   few drops of oil keeps it alive.   I now dont use circlip but a cotter pin so kickstarter won't get lost ,  small practical improvement

It's
me again ,,, on the clutch / transmission ,  there was a 10 millimeter shaft with a 3/8 ths fine  thread end to accomidate the metric size of the ball bearing  same on the crankshaft ( 25 mm i.d.) clever use of the available use of "off the shelf items " and engineering  "fudges "   (kinda like poetic license ) made me scratch my head till i figured out not to take things too serously as far as what I thought was the way stuff was suppused to be ,,   I used a medium thickness 10 millimeter flat washer on mine ,,,    Nice work you are doing,    It looks like it will pay off well ,    Take care    Larry.