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Topics - carryall

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31
Do any of you guys that went to Portland this year, have any pics of some of the more interesting bikes you saw in Portland this year you can share with us people that didn't/couldn't go???

32
Simplexes with Non-Original Engines / muffler
« on: June 07, 2014, 08:09:35 AM »
I'm considering replacing the muffler/exhaust on my bike for something that's a bit quieter than the small engine replacement type that's on it now.  What have others used that's similar in shape? (cylindrical) I want to keep exhaust location I have.

33
After talking with Wayne few weeks ago, he sent me a kick start adapter to "check out".  Sorry I didn't get a picture of it when it was on the bike, but it was a fairly simple install.  The plate with shaft installs between the motor mount plate and engine.  It comes with a gear that replaces the flywheel nut and a return spring for the kick starter also.  Works very nice.  At the present time, I decided to stay with my present set-up, but may possibly pick one up in the future.  Anyone interested can contact Wayne with questions and price.  Here's picture of it tho...

34
Wheels & Tires / rear wheel adjusters
« on: April 29, 2014, 03:41:29 PM »
Does anyone know of a set of adjuster/tensioners that work on our Servicycles to pull the rear wheel back for tensioning the belt and aligning it?  I thought I had seen a post somewhere but couldn't locate it. Thanks. 

35
Wheels & Tires / narrow rim tires
« on: April 11, 2014, 07:30:35 PM »
Been riding the Servicycle last 2 days to/from work (8 miles away) and found that I've been "cruising" at a pretty good pace.  My GPS says my average speed's been around 42mph on the straight stretches, and I had hit a top speed of 47mph at one time.  Not bad for a 6.5H.P engine I think.  Brings me to my weakest link.  TIRES.  If I continue at this pace, I'm probably pushing my luck on the bicycle tires I'm now running.  To avoid wrecking a rim, and a little road rash, I may have to bite the bullet and consider a set of nice dependable tires in the near future I'm thinkin.  I have, what I assume, are the original narrow rims and was wondering if someone here can tell me brand options I have, (if any other than Coker) and from whom, and size tires/tubes I should get?  The tires on it now are 26X1.25.   To be sure, here's a pic of the rim shape if someone can confirm these are "original rims" and the size Coker tires recommended will fit correctly.  Thanks for the benefit of your guy's knowledge/experience in advance.  You "guys" probably have part#, price, and order info. by memory.

36
Buy, Sell, Trade / brake pedal pad
« on: April 05, 2014, 05:46:54 AM »
Does anyone know if Wayne sells a rubber brake pedal pad that, I assume, just slides over the 3/4" round pipe that extends out for your foot?  If not, what do others use?

37
Photo Gallery / adding a little color up front
« on: March 18, 2014, 04:18:39 AM »
I wanted to bring a little color up front on my bike so, decided to pull the rubber foot pads and paint the exposed border and edge of foot pad.  Came out good and added a subtle touch of color to the unique design of these bikes.  Others may want to consider. Or not.

38
Buy, Sell, Trade / Kick stand
« on: February 28, 2014, 04:15:29 AM »
I was going thru a box of servi stuff leftovers and found a kickstand I removed from my 48.  Anyone need it?  It's in great shape and has the original spring and bolt with it. 

39
Simplexes with Non-Original Engines / speedometer
« on: October 12, 2013, 08:03:07 AM »
    Looked around at different speedometers that would work on my Servi.  Choices were electronic vs analog style.  Problem with the electronic ones was the magnet sensor on the spokes needs to pass approx. 1/16" from the sensor and the springer front end prohibits keeping that distance consistently because of movement up and down as you drive over bumps, etc... so I decided to try a cheap analog speedo. ($12.00)  Problem with the "cheap ones" is the internal plastic gears.  I bought a upgrade to replace that deficiency for another $10 (metal to metal gears) and started the install.  First I had to enlarge the axel hole up to approx. 1/2" along with a couple washers that shim out the sending unit to avoid contact with rim hub and allow the locknut to tighten down thru sending unit for the bearing play adjustment nut.  Another modification needed was to extend the arm that hooks into the spokes.  This was accomplished by straightening the arm and bending the end of it further out to clear the hub flange and make contact near the spoke base. After tightening down everything and checking bearing play was good, I ended up having to loosen the pivot arm bolts on one side to allow installation of the axel assembly back in to the forks.  The addition of the sending unit added about 5/16" to axel assembly.   I orientated the hub sensor for the best route for the cable to take up cable slack and avoid any sharp bends to route to the guage on handlebars.  I re-lubed cable with dry graphite before finishing.  Note the hub sending unit is double ended, and allows for left or right side installation but the gauge works only when rotated in 1 direction so note this before completion.  Guess how I found that out?  LOL.  I know it's not an original speedo and not period "correct" but easier than looking at my GPS phone app.  It's reading about 2-3mph slow but that's because it's calibrated for 26 and 27" tires.  The odometers nice for noting oil change intervals and trip distance too. 

40
Wheels & Tires / solid tires?
« on: September 27, 2013, 09:27:38 AM »
Has anyone ever tried the use of solid bike tires?  Found some websites that deals in them, and wondered how they would work out for those of us using bicycle tires and are cautious about 30mph+ speeds?  Might be worth a try...

41
Wheels & Tires / axel nuts
« on: September 18, 2013, 07:48:59 PM »
Not sure if this should have been posted in tires or classifieds but, for those on a budget,  I found a set of 5 very nice chrome plated metal caps that press on over the axel nuts and add thread protection and a nice touch for cheap. (british thread acorns are tough to find) They were $4.62 with shipping thru trux mart on E-bay.

42
Took my bike to car-show over the weekend and didn't get any serious offers to buy it, ($2500) so I ended up "tinkering" with a couple things this week that I had thought of doing but had never gotten around to.  First was mounting the saddlebags to the frame rather than having the throw-over strap covering up the nice, shiny fender.  Not to mention that I had to rivet a piece of aluminium to the strap to prevent the leather from burning on the muffler, which sometimes rattled.  Looks much cleaner now and using the 1/4" bolts and fender washers allows me to put more stuff into them without having to load them evenly.  I then decided to make use of some big, bright 9 volt flashing LED bulbs I had left over from another project and get the headlight working.  The "clone motor" I have doesn't have a charging system so rather than having to mount a 6 volt drycell battery somewhere, I was able to enclose the battery on a small clip inside the headlight bucket and run a small toggle switch to run it.  The draw on this LED was advertised as 30 day continuous and flashes approx. 60-100 times per second which really helps with getting noticed/safety while driving on the road.  At $6 for the pair of flashing LEDs including the battery clip couldn't beat the cost.  Now I will tap into that power source for the other flashing LED I'm using for the brake light. (the yellow turn signals, tail light and horn use a pair of AA in the control unit mounted on the handlebars.

43
When I repaired my bent motor mount I decided to try a larger drive pulley (3.5" to a 4") for lower RPM's at cruising speed and a little more top speed. before I reassembled, I went ahead and painted the clutch cover and driven clutch.  I'm considering not putting my cover back on?  opinions?

44
Just some info on the Harbor Freight 212cc Predator engines...There are a couple "versions" on the market.  First the originals, then they (China) made some "Hemi" style, (plug in center of valve cover), then pre-June 2013 with their original crank/cam, and now they have gone to a Honda spec. crank.  Also if you plan on removing the governor and winding it out, you'll need a billet flywheel and billet crank for safety (engine specific!) and a set of heavier valve springs so they don't "float" at high speed along with .035 jet and free flow air filter and exhaust pipe.  When ordering those engine specific parts, just refer to the engine sticker for its build date.  A lot of go-kart racing sites have everything you'll need to build a stock 6.5HP/212cc motor (3600rpm) into a 10HP+ little "monster motor". (6000rpm+) for couple hundred bucks.

45
Buy, Sell, Trade / selling 1948 with clone motor
« on: August 04, 2013, 02:50:18 PM »
Just listing my completed project.  Want $1500. Has harbor freight 212cc Honda clone engine.  Stainless steel spokes, good paint.  Located in Minnesota

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