General Category => Simplexes with Non-Original Engines => Topic started by: socalsimplex on October 06, 2014, 05:32:51 PM
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Looking for the top speed of a Simplex using a Harbor Freight predator 212cc engine using the stock rear sheave. Also if anyone has this setup but using a Whizzer sheave.
Thanks!
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Looking for the top speed of a Simplex using a Harbor Freight predator 212cc engine using the stock rear sheave. Also if anyone has this setup but using a Whizzer sheave.
Thanks!
Not a HF 212, but a 5 hp Honda GC160, went a little over 50mph with a stock sheave. This was with a clutch and jackshaft setup. Not mine, but belongs to another member.
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Well I'm still working on mine but I dont have any flat land around me for a speed test. Bummer. :'(
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My HF 212cc bike, with the Servi sheave will go 50mph with my 4" drive pulley but, the carb has been re-jetted, and the exhaust, and air intake, has been opened up. A Whizzer sheave, being smaller, would make it go faster, but the engine would need to work harder to do it unless the drive pulley was down sized. (3.5" or smaller), to compensate for the different ratio. The load, weight, rolling resistance, clutch set-up, etc., will also affect overall speed and performance. The TAV2 unit is a different high/low speed ratio than that of mine I'm sure.
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i kinda want to try the TAV2 route, considering it is cheaper. It sounds like the Jackshaft assembly through Wayne would be between $300-400..... is there a cheaper alternative? i don't mind the $200 price tag, but it sounds like everyone is recommending a jackshaft set up.
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i kinda want to try the TAV2 route, considering it is cheaper. It sounds like the Jackshaft assembly through Wayne would be between $300-400..... is there a cheaper alternative? i don't mind the $200 price tag, but it sounds like everyone is recommending a jackshaft set up.
Build your own jack shaft setup. It is not magic. All you need is a couple of pillow block bearings, a piece of keyed shaft, and a fixed pulley, in addition to the drive and driven clutches.
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Well the reason I'm going jackshaft is looks. I do not like that big metal plate behind the pullies. I like a clean look not hidden.
Also if anybody has any tricks on tig welding copper plate please spoke up. :o
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Copper, conducts heat...ALOT. By the time you get it hot enough to start melting your copper filler rod, the whole piece your welding will be glowing hot and ready to melt and/or warp. First, you'll need to clean it well right before you start (like aluminium) and keep your gas purging on the weld, even after you've finished welding while it cools. Depending on how strong it needs to be, you can use either de-oxidized copper filler rod, or a bronze mix filler rod. Ideally for a seamless look after welding/grinding, use some of the parent material for filler rod.
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I would like to know top speed with these as well. I haven't got the courage to hold mine open, just have bicycle tires on it for now, and still need to adjust some things, but I do know it has a lot more power than it had with the original motor. It really responds with the comet clutch too.
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i kinda want to try the TAV2 route, considering it is cheaper. It sounds like the Jackshaft assembly through Wayne would be between $300-400..... is there a cheaper alternative? i don't mind the $200 price tag, but it sounds like everyone is recommending a jackshaft set up.
Are you talking about the mounting plate and everything? Or just the clutch and jack shaft? I just got the whole set up from Wayne...I made a trade and didn't pat cash, but I think he said the comet clutch was around $100 and the jack shaft was about $30.
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I'm just not sure what pulleys/belts etc. To use. My first Simplex used a tav2, so I haven't assembled a jack shaft. I don't mind putting it all together, I just don't want to buy the wrong parts. Probably going to use Wayne ' s predator mount and kick start. I love the way the jack shaft looks.... just hard to swallow the 300-400 price tag from Wayne.
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If memory serves me, Wayne's kick start adapter is $200. Why not get everything but the kick start and get it "up and running" first? The kick start can be added later. Curious what your welding using copper, Oil lamp?
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Carryall, I am going to build a cover for the flywheel that may be chromed later and copper shouldn't bother the magnetic fields of the flywheel. Also copper is easier too work than stanless steel. This should make the engine look more like it should be there and make it a little safer. I just hope I can get all the thing floting in my head out and applied to the bike cause there some neet stuff lock up in there. ???
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Depending on the design, copper combined with rivets, can look nice and give the impression of old style workmanship.
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That would be something that would stand out on the bike. I've got only one drawback in going with rivets on it and that is I do not possess the skill that is needed. Now ifin it were ten year back I had Uncles that could of fab it in a heartbeat. I am hopeful that when finished it will look like it was pressed from a single piece.
Now a sidebar question ? The coil on these honda enginesshouldn't they work if the flywheel is going either direction or if the coil is turn around? ???
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That would be something that would stand out on the bike. I've got only one drawback in going with rivets on it and that is I do not possess the skill that is needed. Now ifin it were ten year back I had Uncles that could of fab it in a heartbeat. I am hopeful that when finished it will look like it was pressed from a single piece.
Now a sidebar question ? The coil on these honda enginesshouldn't they work if the flywheel is going either direction or if the coil is turn around? ???
I would think you would need a reverse rotation camshaft to run one of these engine backwards.
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No cam, and all I would like to do is put the plug wire behind the coil too clean it up front. When I turn the coil around I do not see it firing anymore.
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I took a 2008 whizzer ambassador and installed the hf212 with tav... 2.6" pulley kept it around 55...the pulleys over 3" were too fast(the 212 doesn't struggle ever)...that bike had three different pull type carbs on it for testing...one 22mm and a 26mm and 19mm...I couldn't tell which was better but the scrawny thing they come with probably wouldn't do that. I also had a nice whizzer exhaust pipe adapted to it and I'm sure that helped. Very potent setup and cheap to do.....I mounted the engine at 90° without any issues. The kid that bought it has put maybe 1500 or more on it without probs and added a seat to carry his gal....160-190 should have similar go power