General Category => Restoration Projects => Topic started by: Ricks on September 22, 2021, 08:35:26 AM
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As some here know, 2 years ago in Portland I bought a 1939 from Ernie. I've mostly just been keeping my eye out for parts, and have obtained some more for the project.
I have worked on a few things for it, like a new steering tube, as the old one was beyond use. I have also fixed the frame, which was in need of some massaging and a new foot peg/ center stand.
Back in July, I sent out some parts to the chrome shop, and they did a beautiful job! Thanks Tom for the recommendation.
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I also made some spring cups for the front springs. I made them from Stainless Steel, and they polished up nice.
Here are some pictures of the chromed pieces. The large head nut I made from hex stock and had chromed. Looks pretty schnazzy if I should say so myself.
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I was lucky that Tom is restoring his 1940 Servi-Glide, as I didn't have the rear fender braces. Tom was kind enough to make me templates so I could remake them.
I made a new die for my bender to get the radius correct, which can be seen in the photo.
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I am on the lookout for a pair of early fenders and a complete early Wico magneto. If anyone has these, please let me know!
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Rick, that is some amazing work that you are doing. I have a couple of ServiCycles in the garage waiting for the day when I have time to restify them. BTW, where does one find parts to rebuild the front suspension. My springs are busted up/rusty...
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Rick, that is some amazing work that you are doing. I have a couple of ServiCycles in the garage waiting for the day when I have time to restify them. BTW, where does one find parts to rebuild the front suspension. My springs are busted up/rusty...
Wayne Mahaffey can supply you with new springs, among most other parts. See the suppliers section for contact info.
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Very nice work , Rick .
And , all that chrome ... you're gonna have to wear sun glasses . ;)
Pete . :)
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Looking good Rick. I had a set of early fenders but the thieves took them, the frame, and my small tank. I really hate that because it was a 37 or 38 model. Hope to see that 39 at Portland. Bob
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Bob, do any of the early balloon fender bikes use a 4” wide fender?
I don’t have a timetable for finishing this, as I don’t have all the parts, but I would at least like to get it painted and assembled into a rolling chassis by Portland 2022.
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That steering tube nut is DELUXE!
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Rick, I don't think any bicycles had 4" fenders. I used to have 100 extra fenders but they were stolen also. You did a fine job making fenders for the stretch. I'm sure you could make them for the 39. Bob
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Rick, I don't think any bicycles had 4" fenders. I used to have 100 extra fenders but they were stolen also. You did a fine job making fenders for the stretch. I'm sure you could make them for the 39. Bob
I may have to resort to that. I don’t have a lower die for my English wheel that is narrow enough, I’d have to make one of those first.
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You would also need to make a small die (maybe from hardwood) to form the clearance for the belt.
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After a mini saga getting the correct length spokes, I finally got around to building the wheels. For future reference, the correct spokes for a 1939 are 12 gauge, 10 1/2” length.
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Lookin' good , Rick . ;)
Pete . :)
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Back to working on this. I finally got around to shooting some primer. Now the crappy task of sanding. I’d like to get the bike in color before the weather gets too cold to paint.
I haven’t decided what color yet, as I don’t know what the original color was. There was a hint of blue on the bike, but according to Wollard’s book, Lusterous Black was the color for 1939. As we know, Simplex would paint it any color, for a surcharge.
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Hmm , that primer looks pretty good , Rick .
I wonder what a clear coat would make it look like . Maybe a few black pin strips and a couple decals ...
I can say that I've never seen a Simplex done that^ way .
Just spit balling . But , the primer does clean it up .
Pete . :)
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Pete, you have seen my restorations, there is no way I could do that to this bike. While I’m sure there are a couple of other ‘39’s out there, this is the only one I know of. I’m doing my best to put it back as close to stock as possible.
If anyone here has a 1939, please let me know, as I would like to see some pictures.
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Pete, you have seen my restorations, there is no way I could do that to this bike. While I’m sure there are a couple of other ‘39’s out there, this is the only one I know of. I’m doing my best to put it back as close to stock as possible.
If anyone here has a 1939, please let me know, as I would like to see some pictures.
I know , Rick .
I can't really imagine you not doing it up , as nice as possible .
Cooler weather is on it's way . That usually brings the interest level and participation up a bit .
Hopefully someone will show and tell . ;)
Pete . :)
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Looking sharp Rick. I'm sure this one will be beautiful just like the your other restorations. This might even be a keeper. Bob
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Layed down some paint today. I had some red and merlot paint left over from 2 previous restorations, so I mixed 2 parts red with 1 part merlot. Made for a deeper red color than the 1955 Anniversary bike I did a couple of years ago.
A few days of curing and I’ll wet sand and buff it out for that high end shine!
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Love that red , Rick . ;)
Pete . :)
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The red really pops. Correct or not I would go with it. That is a beautiful color. It will do the bike proud. Bob
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Servi-Cycle, it’s what’s for dinner! :)
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Ha . Blood Simplex . ;)
Pete . :)
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Good afternoon,
That looks like it has been a lot of work. I am glad you posted so many pictures, I have not seen details on the earlier bikes.
It is going to look great!
Scooter
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Gaining on it.
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Lookin' real good , Rick . :)
Pete . :)
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That is really looking great! Cant wait to see it done.
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Up on wheels
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Working on exhaust and muffler.
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Ha . Looks a lot like OEM , Rick . (https://emojipedia-us.s3.dualstack.us-west-1.amazonaws.com/thumbs/160/sony/336/thumbs-up_medium-light-skin-tone_1f44d-1f3fc_1f3fc.png)
Pete . :)
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Lookin good Rick. I believe this baby's Portland bound.
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Been working on the motor and today I did the bake test. I like to see what my running piston clearance will be while hot. I’ve done this on several aluminum cylinders since I seized one at Portland about 10 years ago. I like to keep my cold clearance around .0055-.006”, which seems to equate to about .002-.0025 running at 400 degrees. I haven’t seized a motor since I started using this clearance.
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Assuming a hot measurement because of the fairy feathers floating up from the cylinder in the first pic , how does that .004" play into your preferred clearance ?
I'm not sure the extra .002" would cause piston slap at normal operating temps .
Pete . :)
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Pete, that picture with .004” clearance was taken at 350 degrees. At 400, .003” clearance. Should be good to go!
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Pete, that picture with .004” clearance was taken at 350 degrees. At 400, .003” clearance. Should be good to go!
OK , Rick . Yeah , that seem s like a decent bet . ;)
Pete . :)
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I assembled the motor for the 1939 this morning. Over the last couple of weeks I had mocked it up to figure out all the clearance’s and spacers needed. I had to make some of my own parts, as I didn’t have them. It’s so nice to have a couple of lathes and a milling machine!
In the last 2 pictures I’m checking for the bearing clearance after final assembly. It’s right on the spec, .003”.
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The backing plate I have is not the 982D that was specified by Simplex, but a 982B. The only real difference I could see was no spot on the back to secure a bearing. I remedied that by machining the plate to accept a bearing adapter that I also machined. I used a light press fit and some sleeve retainer to lock it in.
Here is my method for installing the piston. I oil up the piston and rings, then tighten a band clamp just snug enough to completely compress the rings. I then lay the assembly upside down on the bench, as shown in the picture. I then give a swift tap on the end of the rod with my hand and push the piston right into the cylinder. As the Brits would say, “works a treat!” :)
If anyone has a sharp eye, you might notice I do not use a standard ball bearing in the rod. I use a needle bearing instead. The reason I do this is because the available bearings these days have either less balls, a plastic retaining ring, or both. I was introduced to this conversion by Bob Kerr, but his version used a different sized bearing and needed his custom rod. The late Ernie Bulter found this bearing, fits a stock rod, and just needs a custom washer to make it work. BTW, that is one of Wayne’s billet rods that I install a bronze bearing into the small end.
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A few more things to do, like wire up the magneto, put in the compression plate, and hopefully Wayne finds my flywheel that went mia in his shop.
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That is a sexy sparkplug clip!
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That is a sexy sparkplug clip!
Only the best by you!
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Nice clean build , Rick . :)
I noticed a bit of clearance between the rod big end 2202 bearing outer race and the 'keeper' screw and washer .
Is that intentional or maybe I'm just seeing things ?
And how does the inner race of that bearing stay in place ?
Pete . :)
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Pete, the washer covers the inner race and the needle bearings, holding it all in place. If the washer went all they way out and touched the outer race, it would rub and wear the washer, putting metal into the engine.
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Pete, the washer covers the inner race and the needle bearings, holding it all in place. If the washer went all they way out and touched the outer race, it would rub and wear the washer, putting metal into the engine.
I figured that^ .
(https://simplexservi-cycle.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1970.0;attach=15129;image)
The above pic is what I referred to in my last post .
"I noticed a bit of clearance between the rod big end 2202 bearing outer race and the 'keeper' screw and washer .
Is that intentional or maybe I'm just seeing things ?"
Is the outer race a press fit or does the rod have that much room to walk ?
I guess it wouldn't be a bad thing for the rod to have that bit of room for self alignment . Just wondering . ;)
Pete . :)
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The bearing is a press fit into the rod, just like the standard ball bearing. I freeze the bearing and heat the rod with the heat gun. It taps right in. To get the bearing out, I just heat the rod and tap out the bearing. Isn’t that how you put your bearing in? I have used this bearing now on the last 4 engines I’ve built. The only downside is the bearing is expensive. I look for them on eBay, and can usually find a surplus one for around $30-40.
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Ha . It's been so long since I built my motor that I really don't recall exactly how that bearing got installed . But , that's likely the way I did mine , too .
I will be rebuilding my motor fairly soon , I hope . Mainly because I have been hearing a slight wrrr just before the RPMs drop to nothing . I don't know which bearing is going out , so I'll just replace all of them .
Pete . :)
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Got the motor in the frame, the exhaust hooked up. Tom provided the belt number for a direct drive, which is an AX81.
Check out the belt notch on the fender, I did this by hand hammering it into the fender. Looks just like stock!
See you guys on the Hill soon!
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Ha . That's almost way too nice , Rick. ;)
Nice job on the belt relief .
Which tires did you use ?
Pete . :)
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Ha . That's almost way too nice , Rick. ;)
Nice job on the belt relief .
Which tires did you use ?
Pete . :)
Thanks Pete. I used the Simplex reproduction tires by Wayne.
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Good morning,
That is one sharp bike. Not much beats the joy of bringing old or scrapped stuff back to life.
Good luck,
Scooter