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Messages - Scooter4

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16
Engine & Transmission / Re: model M right side bearing inner race direction
« on: October 28, 2023, 06:34:31 AM »
Good morning,
It is a Timken R1304.  Do you know a number of one that would normally be in there? I can compare them. May be better when installed the correct way.
I wonder if it is why the parts book shows three different bearing numbers?
I did not measure the endplay.  Probably 1/8".
I agree about not pounding them out.  I drove it out because I checked it and moved with light force. Otherwise, I use a couple of propane torches because I dont have a grill.
Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter

17
Engine & Transmission / model M right side bearing inner race direction
« on: October 27, 2023, 05:03:14 PM »
Good evening,
I noticed a lot of end play on my crank shaft when fitting up parts and I think the right side bearing inner race was installed on the wrong side.  The inner race was facing the inside of the engine and I was able to drive the bearing out, but I am thinking the inner race should be facing the flywheel.
I cant tell from parts books, does anyone know.  Refer to attached image of bearing.

Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter

18
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Re: Headlight Bulb
« on: October 15, 2023, 10:21:25 AM »
Good morning,
I looked the coil over and did not see signs of over heating or damage but reluctantly unwound it to find nothing wrong with it.
The unwound resistance is the same as the wound resistance of approximately 1.3 ohms so it did not have a short. This matches the specification for 22 gauge wire.
Unwound length is about 81 ft 6 in.
Wire is .028 insulated OD and .025 OD bare. should be 22 gauge.  Wire is rated at 920 mAmp. which is close to what I measured for output.
310 turns on coil.

I checked my magneto part number and mine is version 1 which it should be for 1956.  I believe this coil performs as it was intended to with the 6cp bulb.  Too bad those seem nonexistant.

So, I am wondering if anyone who has a Phelon that lights a 21cp bulb knows the coil wire diameter and number of turns and resistance  and has measured the amperage?  I would like to rewind that.

Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter

19
Engine & Transmission / Re: ruined Phelon flywheel keyway and crankshaft repair
« on: October 14, 2023, 12:56:35 PM »
Thank you for posting the pictures.  That replacement shaft looks great. Is it welded on the other side of the counterweight?

I got everything apart. I checked the flywheel before I took it apart and was surprised it runs true still.  I am going to have them tig welded since I have access to a professional. Very grateful for that because my electric welding ability it terrible.

I am also going to lap the flywheel and crank.

I made a copper keyway filler for the flywheel.  Dont know when I will get the parts done. 

Thank you,
Scooter

20
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Re: Headlight Bulb
« on: October 14, 2023, 08:26:57 AM »
I did get an amperage measurement of 1.03 amps on the headlight coil.  Explains why it will light the Sylvania 5.3 watt, but not the 16.8 watt.
I will unwind the coil and replace with new wire when I get a chance.  I did find that Phelon made three different coils for the simplex depending on year, but I do not know what is different.
Thank you,
Scooter

21
Engine & Transmission / Re: ruined Phelon flywheel keyway and crankshaft repair
« on: October 14, 2023, 08:20:30 AM »
Thank you all for the replies.
It is good to know Wayne does repairs.  At least I have that avenue available.  Would be cool to live near him and learn.  I have made many complex repairs for people, but it is so rare I use any form of electric welding I have to beg a buddy at work to do it.  I even own a tig for years I have never used because I almost always gas weld.

Great idea on the copper key.  That would make restoring the slot much easier.

I am going to take a crack at rescuing the parts and if that does not work then contact Wayne at least about the hub replacement.  I am concerned about it because it is deformed so bad.  I will have it apart this afternoon and clean up better to check.

I still cant believe it happened because I had the nut fairly snug.  I held the flywheel with a chain wrench, but I know I did not tighten fully.  I only ran it just above idle, and within one minute of running and taking my amperage reading the engine was slowing down so I though the I needed to idle it back up but before I could reach the throttle I heard rubbing sound on the flywheel and knew it had come loose and before I could reach the key the flywheel locked up on the laminates and I bet that is when the key rolled out

That is a clock I wish I could turn back.  Certainly a change in project plans.
I will let you know what happens with the repairs.
Thank you,
Scooter

22
Engine & Transmission / ruined Phelon flywheel keyway and crankshaft repair
« on: October 13, 2023, 05:17:10 PM »
Good evening,
Has anyone repaired the Phelon flywheel hub keyway? Or crankshaft?

I earned the fool of the year award because I only tightened my Phelon flywheel about half way to measure headlight coil amperage and about a minute later found that is not enough to keep from ruining the keyway on the flywheel and crank. I did not tighten it all the way because I knew I was going to be taking it back off.

I am disappointed it did not shear the key, but instead rolled it.  The key looks good. Maybe an aluminum key would have sheared. The crank and flywheel are very soft compared to other things I have worked on. 

I have not ever repaired keyways, I have always been able to easily make and replace the metal part that is damaged or buy a new one.  Not sure if mig welding or brazing the crank would be best and then cut a new keyway.  I know the shaft could be replaced, but would probably attempt to fill it in and cut a new keyway.

The flywheel really concerns be because trying to replace the hub and get it trued back up looks like a problem, but cant be used like it is.
Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter

23
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Re: Headlight Bulb
« on: October 08, 2023, 04:01:48 PM »
Just in case, I checked the wires and they are correct. Too bad, that would have been an easy fix.
Thank you,
Scooter

24
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Re: Headlight Bulb
« on: October 07, 2023, 03:47:03 PM »
Thank you for the reply.
I felt like it looks original.  The part of windings I can see does not appear overheated.  It will not make a 21cp bulb or a 16.8watt bulb glow at all.  I will make the 5.3watt side of Sylvania 1154 super bright.
I think all the grounds and connections are good because I cleaned them yesterday and still get the same readings.  I find it odd that I am reading 18v on the headlight coil.  I would think if there is a short in the coil it would read lower than it is supposed to. I checked it with two analog meters in case the cheap meter was wrong, but I had to switch to the 50v scale on both because it pegged out on the 10v.
I am anxious to see the reading when I get an ammeter.  I will let you know.
Thank you,
Scooter

25
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Re: Headlight Bulb
« on: October 07, 2023, 11:22:00 AM »
Good afternoon,
Attached is an image of my coils.  Do you happen to know if those look original?  Maybe my coil is homemade and why it reads 18 volts AC.
I have ordered a clampmeter to try checking the coil.   Based on bulb manufacturer information I could find, the 21cp bulb should require about 2.69 amps for the 6 volt systems.

Please have a look at the picture and let me know what you think.
Thank you,
Scooter

26
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Re: Headlight Bulb
« on: October 06, 2023, 01:43:19 PM »
Good afternoon Pete.
I am sorry, but I put your name a Paul (regarding resistance measurements) when I first started this post.

I pulled the flywheel and cleaned all grounds and wire end.  I checked the resistance of the coils while they were disconnected and got: 2.0 ohm for the headlight coil.  1.1 ohm for each tail light coil.
I ran it and get 18v AC on the headlight coil and 8v AC on the tail light coils.  The coils do not look damaged or over heated.
18v AC seams rather high for that coil.
At this time, I do not have a way to measure current of the coils because my analog meters will not do AC current and my digital one that will do AC current goes bonkers when connected to an alternator.

I am also wondering if the brake coil should be able to light the high side of the Sylvania 1154.  That is 16 watt on the package.

Any ideas?  May have to rewind the headlight coil.
Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter




27
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Re: 2221 Headlight Bulb
« on: October 05, 2023, 05:35:43 PM »
Good evening,
I know this topic is old, but I am wondering if anyone got the 2221 bulb to light with the Phelon magneto?  I bought two new Mazda 2221 to use on my bikes and thought I would see if it will light before I rotate the flange on the bulb.
My mag will not light the bulb but the mag shows about 8 volts charging. The resistance measurements are similar to ones Paul posted in a different thread.  I tested the bulb connected directly to the wire out of the mag and grounded to the cylinder not even a little glow.  It does spark a little when connecting.  I check tail light coils also.

All three coils will light up the low side of a Sylvania 1154 just fine, but not the high side.

Please let me know.
Thank you,
Scooter

28
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Re: Model M throttle twist assembly
« on: September 27, 2023, 03:59:50 PM »
Good evening Pete,
Thank you for the complement. I do not have the Simplexes in a registry.
Thanks,
Scooter

29
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Re: Model M throttle twist assembly
« on: September 26, 2023, 03:57:40 PM »
Good evening,
I wish I was close to retirement. At least 10 years to go.
Attached is image of bike.  Picture is from before I put the throttle stuff on. Should have washed it first. It deserves a good wash after all these years.
Scooter

30
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Re: Model M throttle twist assembly
« on: September 25, 2023, 06:08:23 PM »
Good evening,
finally after much searching have found enough pictures on here of all the parts to make the parts I needed. Because the slide has a tang on it at an angle I had to make several cardboard tube mock ups to get it right (or close enough).

Now that I have made the parts and assembled one it is embarrassingly simple though complex looking.

I have finally driven this 1956 that I fixed up in 1996 and it runs great.  It is easy to find why people like the automatic since it is easier to drive.  I do still like the challenge of the shifter.

Scooter

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