I've got my bike in pieces and ready to get it restored. I need some opinions on the rims. I called some places in my state Missouri. They all said they can't/won't chrome the rims. They said since they are essentially bike rims it wont stay on (flake off) or they are too thin to chrome. I had one tell me they could nickel them and they recommended I nickel everything they said it looks better. I don't know the difference in looks of nickel vs chrome.

I've seen a lot of bikes that people have powder coated the rims. Is this because they couldn't get them chromed or was it for the durability? I would like to keep them as close to original as possible and they were chromed to begin with. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Just rechecked the manual and you are correct I was leaving a zero off. According to the manual when new it should be .004-.006 it said if it's over .020 it should be replaced. So looks like new rings are in order.

The gap is .05 on the piston rings when in the cylinder, according to the manual it should be .04 to .06. When out of the cylinder its .25

I didn't have it bored or a new piston installed, it isn't out of round.

The rotator valve clearance from the housing is .02

I think this is all within range, not sure on the rotator clearance as the manual doesn't say. I will put back together and try running with it to get an accurate pressure reading. Since I only got 20 psi on the tab with the drill method. While the drill seemed like a good idea, I don't think its going fast enough to get a good reading. Which could also mean not pulling the fuel.

The carb is a Tilloston MS 93B. I did rebuild it with the kit from Wayne. The first problem I had was jet was plugged, then the float wasn't adjusted properly (Flooding). Then the needle wouldnt move, since it was new it fit too tight. I have since fixed all of that. It is not flooding now. I have the manual and it said to adjust 1 1/2 turns out on the lean knob and same on the jet. It said after it was running you could then fine tune it.

I have a brand new "old" spark plug. I found someone who has over 10,000 old spark plugs, he is a "spark plug expert," I didn't know one existed but he knew everything about spark plugs.

The spark was blue. I cleaned the points with a business card.

I have been trying to start it in the garage, not running down the street. I have a drill that I have attached to the flywheel nut and spinning it that way. I figured it would be easier to get the carb adjusted that way. Since mine has no clutch just thought I would have better luck getting it fine tuned that way. I could be way off on that approach.

Sorry I didn't include that on the last post. Any other advice on what might be the problem. I have asked a bunch of guys at work and we are all kind of scratching our heads together, which is like one normal person.

When you guys put in new bearings, do you pack them with grease. I know you would on normal uses, was unsure in this application.

I've got a manual that came with it. Only has writing, and for motor it says to send to factory and get a new motor for $15!!

Pulley is already off. I need to get the crankshaft out of the housing, to change bearings. Do I put the whole housing crankshaft and all into oven? Should I remove crank from housing first and if so I do I do this without damaging something?

Not sure on water, but lots of built up carbon deposit. Lots of elbow grease and it's shiny again.