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Messages - David Stinson

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16
Engine & Transmission / Re: Drive Belts
« on: August 15, 2014, 09:58:09 AM »
When I had the unit apart I noticed grooves where the weights set and push against the movable pulley.  I rotated the square part of the pulley so that the unworn sides are now in the "working" position and lubed every moving part.  It was dark last night when I rode so I couldn't see if the pulley is working or not.

17
Thanks to everyone for the input.

18
Engine & Transmission / Re: Phelon lighting Coils Output
« on: August 14, 2014, 08:04:41 PM »
Mike, I realize that your original post was quite old and you have probably already solved your problem.  My bike also had no headlights when I got it and because the engine would run with the key off and die in every position but the "ON" position I discovered that not only the kill wire but the lights also were wired incorrectly on the switch.  After correcting the wiring, all is good.  Well as good as that weak headlamp can be.

19
Engine & Transmission / Re: Drive Belts
« on: August 14, 2014, 07:46:53 PM »
Regarding my statement:

"My drive belt was worn to the point that it was seating all the way in the bottom of the drive pulley and slipping badly."

After purchasing the new belt I checked it in the drive pulley and found that it also went to the bottom of the pulley.  I considered moving the fixed half of the pulley over on the bearing tube but did not.

After the reassembly and a test ride, I found that the new belt slips as badly as the old one.  While writing this it dawned on me that I have my wheel back far enough that the tension idler is not at the ideal position shown in the manual.  Maybe a first step will be to readjust the wheel to correct this and see if the additional if minimal wrap on the drive pulley has an effect on the slippage.

If the wheel adjustment doesn't make enough difference, I will remove the clutch / transmission and move the pulley enough to hold the belt up on the sides.  Wayne said that the pulley would have to be heated to be able to move it.

Has anyone else already made a similar adjustment to the fixed pulley position?

20
 I am looking for pictures showing the relationship of the rear fender braces and the cargo rack mounting brackets.  I just installed a new belt and put the braces on first, then the rack brackets.  I seem to have a clearance problem with the left fender brace and the pulley for the drive belt.  The fender braces look correct relative to the rack brackets so I'm not sure where I'm going wrong.  Can anyone point me in the right direction?  Any input is welcome.

For now I have installed some flat washers behind the complete brace and bracket stack.  I also noticed that my left brace hugs the wheel closer than the right hand brace making me think it may be on backwards.

Another day, something else to do.

21
Engine & Transmission / Re: Drive Belts
« on: August 13, 2014, 05:52:55 AM »
Picture of the rear brake showing the lever and rod.  The rod is currently just stuck into its connection.  I am in the process of reassembling the rear wheel, fender, cargo rack, etc after removing to install a new drive belt.

22
Engine & Transmission / Re: Drive Belts
« on: August 13, 2014, 05:19:50 AM »
Are you talking about the pedal or the lever on the wheel itself?

23
Engine & Transmission / Re: Drive Belts
« on: August 08, 2014, 04:33:34 AM »
Wow.  What a coincident.  I am in Georgia but the bike was originally titled in Ohio and then went to Illinois.
I am attaching a picture of the original title.

24
Engine & Transmission / Re: Drive Belts
« on: August 07, 2014, 04:13:48 AM »
The 2 bearings are the ones in each end of the tube that runs the length of the clutch / transmission assembly and the axle for the assembly runs through them.

I sent Rick the numbers from my frame and engine.

Frame, under the front - 15242
Engine - M23270B

25
Engine & Transmission / Drive Belts
« on: August 06, 2014, 04:59:42 AM »
My motorcycle is a 1958.  I was having some issues with belt slippage on the belt to the rear wheel.

Just want to share some information that I have learned while going through my clutch / transmission unit.  Mine has 2 bearings in it both being 6300 radial ball bearings available from any bearing supplier.  They are available from McMaster-Carr under part number 6661K121.  The idler pulley is machined aluminum and uses 1 each of the same bearing.  All three bearings had issues but the one in the idler was almost seized up.

My drive belt was worn to the point that it was seating all the way in the bottom of the drive pulley and slipping badly.

A suitable replacement for the long drive belt I have identified as a BX75, Gates number 90136075, also available from McMaster-Carr under their part number 6057K147.

I have not actually installed these items yet but will follow up to confirm that the belt is a fit.

What I need to know is has anyone identified the primary drive belt?  Mine appears to be the original with the original number.  I would prefer to have a new belt in hand prior to removing mine if possible.

26
Introductions / Re: Simplex Automatic
« on: July 23, 2014, 07:25:20 PM »
I worked on it today and got it running after removing the flywheel and cleaning and gapping the points.  Luckily the carburetor seems to be OK.  I still have to get a throttle working and there seems to be a problem with my key switch and lights.

27
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Re: Throttle mechanism and cable
« on: July 23, 2014, 06:58:26 PM »
Thanks.  Can you give me Wayne's email address?

28
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Re: Throttle mechanism and cable
« on: July 23, 2014, 05:40:32 PM »
Yeah, the cruise feature would be cool.  If I'm understanding the question, mine pulls on the linkage.  I'm not sure what the type that twists looks like.

My cable jacket is stretched out on the handlebar end.  I am going to get a mower style cable until I can get the correct replacement.

29
Frame, Tank, Seat, Controls, Etc / Throttle mechanism and cable
« on: July 22, 2014, 04:09:30 PM »
I have a 1958 Simplex with a non-working throttle.  I removed the grip and internal mechanism and found the cable is damaged.  It is similar in appearance and resistance to movement to a mower control cable, not free moving like the cable on my other motorcycle throttle.  Is this a design feature to allow throttle position to be maintained without holding it or should it return to the closed position when released?

Any input welcome.

30
Introductions / Simplex Automatic
« on: July 20, 2014, 05:35:51 AM »
Still on the trailer.

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