I haven't. I need to ride over there and talk to Greg. I'll commit to do that in the near future. My free time has been limited lately. It took me a few weeks just to draw up that axle in the other thread for lack of spare time.

Unless my measurements are off this is the axle dimensions required to use a Worksman 77A wheel on a simplex with minimum modifications. All you need is this axle and a set of bearings, which can be ordered and are readily available. This modification will use the standard simplex front nuts to secure the wheel to the forks.



I haven't had it machined yet but I plan to. Also the program I used didn't have the 7/16 BSC thread in it's database so they aren't shown.  Once I have one made I'll let y'all know how it works.

Thanks, I guess that makes it easier.  I'm confused about something though. I just measured my frame and from inside to inside on the rear dropouts I measured 6 inches. Is my frame spread or do the stepped nuts make up the difference?

As a side note the smaller axle that I ordered will actually work fine with a spacer between the bearings. If you ever pulled the axle out you'd probably have to pull the bearings out and line everything up to install it. It'd be a pain. 

I understand your problem, or rather I think I do.  For me the biggest problem would be cutting the tank. Reason being is that it's old and it's lasted this long and so on.

You still need a smaller tank so you will have to cut it, maybe. What if you found a smaller tank? Somewhere on this site is a picture of a tank with a non-familiar decal. Folks that know more than me say it's off something different than a servicycle and it's smaller. It looks like a servi-cycle tank meaning that the radius on the front looks right. It may be possible to procure one of those tanks and have the clearance you need without cutting the one you have.

Just a thought.

That thing is actually kind of awesome in its own way.

Ok... Now I think I understand. Also, it answers a few other questions I had.

Question 1.

Why on earth is the opening to the rocker on the front for smaller than the  opening that the axle fits in.

Answer - The axle nut has a shoulder/sleeve on it that fits between the axle and the rocker when tightened. The diameter of the sleeve on that fits into the rocker is larger than the diameter of the opening to the rocker. That means if the bolt comes loose the wheel will stay secured to the front rocker because the sleeve is larger than the hole the axle has to pass through. As long as the bolt is partially regardless of how loose the wheel will stay on the front forks.

I worked in a place quite a few years back that was built in 1917. They still had a lot of the old equipment and some of it was still used. I was perpetually in awe of some of the clever simple things that were done to make the equipment better. It's really pretty simple to over engineer something. You see it pretty much everywhere you look. To accomplish the same thing in a very simple way in many cases makes it a work of art.

Does anyone have a picture of this nut that I could take a look at? I looked around online and saw a couple of different variations that I can only imagine aren't original.

I think if I had it to do all over again, I'd call Worksman and order the hub, brake, spokes and rim separate and without bearings and axles. I'm going to tear it all down for painting anyway and that way I wouldn't pay for parts that I didn't need and the effort to tear it down.

Tom, once I see a pic I'm going to look around and see if I can find something similar. If not, I think that a custom cut nut might be the ticket.

As a side note, I went back through the Wheels & Tires forum and saw something pretty interesting. In the thread about "Rear sealed bearing converstion" by illMATTIc http://www.simplexservi-cycle.com/index.php?topic=603.0 He talks about adding a sealed bearing to the original simplex rear hub. He said he put a 1-1/8 bearing with a 1/16 shim on the OD. That is effectively the same thing I was going to have to do. The ID of the bearing slot for the worksman wheel is 1 3/16 or 30mm.

The possibility may exist that the bearing that I ordered will fit in an original simplex hub and the same axle I ordered may work too... if there is a proper nut to fit it.

Ok, I think I've got a solution to this. Again....   I think this will actually work because the sizes are actually correct.

The existing bearings in the worksman wheel have a 30mm OD. So I need to fit something in that hole.  Here is what I found and I think it will work.

Here are the bearings
http://www.amazon.com/LR6001NPPU-Bearing-12x30x8-Bearings-VXB/dp/B00FNX4SCA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

They are 30mm X 12mm ID. They should press in and fit just right.

Now we are on to the axles. They need to be 12mm to fit the bearings but will be too large for the dropouts. The part numbers below were ordered from Treatland.tv They are 12mm through the center and 11mm on the ends. They should fit the bearings and should fit the dropouts.
tomos part number 230509 Front Axle
tomos part number 222585 Rear  Axle

The only think that may be "iffy" is the length of the rear axle. It might not be quite wide enough.

Tom... thanks for the help and brain power you gave to this. After your offer I looked at it a different way and think I might have it. The parts should be here by next week. I'll let you all know how good I did or how bad I messed up.