Anyone notice that the bike that's on ebay (in Spain) has mid-fifties features, but has an early style fork/handlebar set up.  I wonder if they were made a little different for special export orders, or if somebody just swapped early parts onto it.  I sent the guy a note, asking for the serial numbers.
Mike Sal

I got a note from a fella out east with a bike for sale.  It appears to be a deluxe.  His note reads:

I live in Gordonsville Va. and have this for sale. Will entertain $2,800 and
or  GOOD offers.  I took this simplex off the side of a mountain in the
community of  Colleen in Nelson Co. Virginia. It was in a rundown out
building up a rutted mud road. The guy I bought it from said he got it in
West Virginia when an old man died and his son sold it. And yes, it was in a
barn when he got it. It seems to be all there except for a shield and the
kicker gear. The engine is free and has good compression.

There were a couple other pictures if interested.  Contact Carlton at cwlohr@hotmail.com 
Mike Sal

About a foot of snow on top of some ice here....won't be doing much outside for a few days......How long before summer comes back???
Mike Sal

Just got the new repop carb from Carpenters today.  I figure I'll give it a try.  The 3rd small box it came in said made in china....guess I shouldn't be surprised.....

Now if I can just find those small odd 7/16 wrenches to get at that back side nut to get the old carb off......there's no way I'm pulling that magneto in order to get at it.....
Mike Sal

Ok, everything looks normal on the coils, but it was a no go on any lights tonight when I got the bike running good.  I read in another thread that the output of a Wico light coil was somewhere between 2 & 8 volts.  Anybody measured a Phelon ?  I would expect about the same in volts, but I wonder how much power they have.

I ran an extra ground wire thru the frame & it's connected to the tail light housing, headlight housing, ignition switch housing, and magneto plate (the powder coating on the parts made me concerned about getting a good ground on everything.

The ignition switch itself checks out ok (the first one I got from Wayne was no good) too.
Mike Sal

While taking the Simplex on it's first voyage in 20 years.  The speedometer was squealing and jumping around (the needle that is).  That's a classic sign of dried out lubricant on the drive bushing.  By the looks of it, the unit has been apart before, or someone tried to take it apart.  I've been hesitant to mess with it until I had a plan together.  I unscrewed the drive cable while I was cruising down the road before it froze up (have had this happen in Studebakers in the past & just as they are trying to freeze up, they will snap off the small drive pin that the needle attaches to).

Anyone have any luck tinkering with these?  I'm sure it was made by some speedo company who sold them to anyone & would put any brand name on them.  Or, is there any services out there with good reputations on repairing them?
Mike Sal

I have a question for you guys with dual exhausts.  What is the center to center spacing between the ends of the pipes (at the back)?  I noticed that I have a close clearance between the right side rear bracket and the brake rod.  I had the brackets mounted on the inside of the rear drop out plates, but I think they need to be on the outside.  I either have to spread the pipes or bend the brackets.

My bike originally had the stubby muffler, so this dual set up I have (purchased from Wollards's son) will have to be tweaked a little to make it a good fit.  I had it on temporarily when I first tried to start the bike (a few coughs so far, but I was only spoon feeding fuel to it.

I'd like to get a few reports to see how much these things probably varied.
Mike Sal

Arghh......I finally decided to start finishing the Simplex.......after getting Sonya's Honda Passport & the Suzuki GT185 running.....nothing like waiting till the last minute.....

First problem was that the brake light switch I just got from Wayne is the wrong one.....I needed the one that faces forward (normally "open"), but he sent me the one that is designed to face backwards (normally "closed").  I can make ups some wires to get by for now I guess.

The bigger issue is the ignition switch I got from him.  There are 3 "clicks" from the off position.  The first click is supposed to allow ground for the ignition points.  Click 2 is supposed to be ignition and low beam head light.  Third click is supposed to be ignition and Hi beam headlight (both filaments).  On my switch the first click gives ignition, but click 2 has Lo beam, but no ignition, and click 3 is completely open.

I also ran an extra wire from front to back to provide a secure ground (connecting ground of switch, headlight, and tail light to the motor).

I guess I'll call him tomorrow & have him bring some parts to Portland for me.....
Mike Sal