General Category => Engine & Transmission => Topic started by: Sonrisers on April 10, 2013, 08:44:18 PM
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How do you disassemble the clutch??? I have taken all bolts out and removed the clutch side pulley and weights, but can't get the "split pulley apart". Is this just pressed in or am I missing something? I have looked at the diagrams in the manuals section, but I can't see how it comes apart. Have also been searching the forum. Please help, or direct me to the right place on the forumm as I'm sure somebody has already posted something. Thanks.
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I think you're asking about the fixed member of the driven pulley ( part # 2270C-B in the manual ) . Left side of the transmission .
Just heat it with a propane torch . It should come off fairly easy .
I had to ask the same question .
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Thanks PD, I'll try that, you're becomming a great resource!
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Just spreading the wealth . ;)
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Finally got it! I could heat it up and get it to slide down, but couldn't get to come off. Somebody had used a hammer on the shaft and it was slightly mushroomed.
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Did your clutch have the snap ring holding the pulley on, in addition to the press fit? My early, single track did not have the groove for the ring, but my later, dual track had the groove and snap ring.
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Mine had the mushroomed modification , also . I had to carefully file that edge into shape , before I could get the thing apart . Mine has the snap ring as well .
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Pd had told me to heat it up, and it would slide off, but when I couldn't slide it off, I called Wayne and he said there would be a snap ring on both sides. I had no snap rings, or even groves for snap rings. I heated it up enough to make it slide down, and then discovered the mushroom. It was very slight, but it would stop it cold when it came to it. I filed it down and it slid right off. I was thinking somebody must have put the wrong axle, or shaft in it when there wasn't any grooves for snap rings, but it sounds like some of them didn't have snap rings.
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I didn't say anything about snap rings as those would be pretty obvious .
I thought the snap ring on the left end of my transmission was a bit overkill , but maybe they put it there as a guide or limiter for the fixed half of that pulley .
Good you got it sussed . :)
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Pd had told me to heat it up, and it would slide off, but when I couldn't slide it off, I called Wayne and he said there would be a snap ring on both sides. I had no snap rings, or even groves for snap rings. I heated it up enough to make it slide down, and then discovered the mushroom. It was very slight, but it would stop it cold when it came to it. I filed it down and it slid right off. I was thinking somebody must have put the wrong axle, or shaft in it when there wasn't any grooves for snap rings, but it sounds like some of them didn't have snap rings.
Is yours a single of twin track clutch?
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That might just be the difference , Rick .
I don't see any clip rings on the single track .
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Not sure what the difference between a single and twin track clutch is... ??? Please enlighten me. Just got the clutch and idler arm from 57' ford the other day.
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The main difference is the single track transmission has two throwout weights that resemble dumbbells . The double track has two longer throwout weights that look like small rolling pins .
The M manual has both on the same page :
http://www.simplexservi-cycle.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=430.0;attach=2741;image
Here's a pic of my double track transmission :
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa28/pdcomm/Simplex/HPIM1612.jpg)
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Ok, mine must be the single track, It has two weights that look like dumbells, that are secured in the center. Thanks for the info.
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That would be a single track .
I said it had four weights . That was my mistake . I corrected that ^ . Sorry for any confusion . (http://www.cb750c.com/modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_redface.gif)
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I decided to paint the weights on the clutch instead of powder coating....glad I did, was wondering if they would move freely. After paint dried, wouldn't move at all...back in the laquer thinner. These are steel parts, were they painted or coated to keep from rusting originally?
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I don't think they were coated with anything other than oil . That's just my guess .
The weights on my double track have / had no coating .
About the only part of the single track weights that might hold any paint would be the flat non contact ends .
everything else has to make contact / friction .
I dare guess that even the weight 'ramps' might get too thick if overly coated .
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I'm with Pete on this; don't paint any of the moving parts. I just oil them lightly, and they work fine.
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Ok... thanks guys....it's settled, no paint. Is it hard to replace the shoes? never done it before.
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The complete shoe or pair of shoes is very easy to replace .
If you mean replacing the linings on the shoes , that's a bit more involved . But , definitely doable .
Here's a pair that I relined :
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa28/pdcomm/Simplex/HPIM1534.jpg)
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Yea, I was talking about replacing the linings. Is it hard to replace the rivets??? Any sprecial tools? Are the clutch linings the same linings as the brake linings? The clutch drum and the brake drum both look to be the same size.
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The drums are the same size , as far as I know . The shoes seem to interchange without any problem .
I used pop rivets for those linings . It's an experiment . Normal brake lining rivets are flat head brass .
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Yea I should of went the way of the pop rivit. Used t he ones that came with the linnings and no tool on hand. I'm glad there inside ans no one can see them. The linnings I got from Wayne looked alot different than those shoe's. I will see how they hold up. 8)
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"I'm glad there inside and no one can see them."
Only you and me will ever know , Reese . ;)
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The drums & the brake shoes are identical for both brakes and transmission.
If you go to the "Wheels & Tires section, then to the "Brakes" thread started by me, you see a photo session on how to change the linings using an old rivet tool. If you can't find one of these at you local junk store, I'll loan mine to anyone that will promise to send it back.
Mike Sal
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The drums & the brake shoes are identical for both brakes and transmission.
If you go to the "Wheels & Tires section, then to the "Brakes" thread started by me, you see a photo session on how to change the linings using an old rivet tool. If you can't find one of these at you local junk store, I'll loan mine to anyone that will promise to send it back.
Mike Sal
Mike, how about we just send you our brakes! LOL
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But , you have to promise to send them back , Mike . ;)
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Now you offer the tool that doesn't help my sore knuckles or the rivits. Quick get me a time machine. I'm just yanking your chain. ;D
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Reese, my wife is starting to rub off on me.....I'm sure you're old enough to know how all women have super powers? My ex-wife's power was to make money evaporate without anything to show for it. Sonya's super power is the ability to remind you of something you've forgotten.....but only after you've reached the point of no return & you've switched to plan B.
If any of you aren't comfortable about re-lining your brake shoes, I'd be happy to work on them for you. No charge. The only secret is starting in the middle and working your way out to the ends and making sure to keep the holes lined up. You'd think motorbike shoes would be easier than re-lining car shoes ('47 thru '52 Studebakers have unique shoes & you usually have to re-line your own), but since they are smaller, they don't have as much "give", so you have to make sure to keep the holes lined up.
Mike Sal
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I might just take you up on that Mike...I'll send you the motor too when I get ready.LOL
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Oh that got redone its just not a neat job. But hey no onecan see them anyway. :o