finally got some pic's

[Mike Sal]

My bike is a later model ('56) & only has one clevis....at the front.  The back of the rod is just threaded longer & it slips thru a pivot at the brake backing plate (there are 2 "arms" instead of one attached to the brake pivot) & has a nut on both sides of the pivot.

Worst case, just cut the rod & make a new one.  Mine is just a 1/4" straight road with fine threads on each end.  If you have access to a lathe, just chuck the rod up & run a threading die down as far as you need (running at a slow speed).  If you can't get the stubs out of the clevis's, I'll bet some of the older parts stores have them, or I know the Cushman vendors have them. 

Lots-o-luck
Mike Sal

[Ed Steele]

Thanks Mike, I'll probably have to make one, as this one won't budge. been burning the candle at both ends for a while so i probably won't get back at it till the weekend but i'll keep y'all posted, Thanks for all the help!!

[Ricks]

If you are not concerned about originality, any kart or mini bike shop sells these.  I would think any mower shop would have them as well.

Rick

[kartjockey]

Ed, Go to the grocery store and buy you a box of parafin wax. Maybe down the baking isle. This is the wax that canners will sometimes use to seal their jars of jam and so forth. Heat up the item that you are trying to unscrew to the point that when you touch the wax to it the wax flashes off. Shut the torch off but continue to touch the wax to the threads until it quits flashing off and stays in a liquid form. The wax will become quite thin and follow the threads back in. The wax will act as a lubricant and aid to unscrewing the parts. Try to unscrew it while the parts are still hot. Be patient. You may have to do this a couple of times. it will probably help on the clevis pin itself too. Sometimes you just have to get the parts cherry red but give them a second before you try to separate them.

[Mike Sal]

kartjockey, thanks for suggesting that.  I had forgotten to mention that trick.  I've used it several times over the years to get rusty Studebaker parts apart.  I learned that trick from the guys at Jasper Engine Rebuilding (they're a customer of ours).
Mike Sal

[Ed Steele]

Well, finally have the bike apart, ended up breaking the brake rod, going to weld some extra holes that were put in the frame up today and then off to the sandblaster tomorrow, does anyone know if the seat mount, i.e. the plate that goes from the neck to the seat is available? or should i just make one? if so should i use spring steael or just plate steel?

[Mike Sal]

You might check with Wayne to see if he has some scrap frames laying around that he could cut the seat strap off of.  I saw a frame in the Wollard collection that had some parts cut off, probably to fix other frames.
Mike Sal