speedometer

[carryall]

    Looked around at different speedometers that would work on my Servi.  Choices were electronic vs analog style.  Problem with the electronic ones was the magnet sensor on the spokes needs to pass approx. 1/16" from the sensor and the springer front end prohibits keeping that distance consistently because of movement up and down as you drive over bumps, etc... so I decided to try a cheap analog speedo. ($12.00)  Problem with the "cheap ones" is the internal plastic gears.  I bought a upgrade to replace that deficiency for another $10 (metal to metal gears) and started the install.  First I had to enlarge the axel hole up to approx. 1/2" along with a couple washers that shim out the sending unit to avoid contact with rim hub and allow the locknut to tighten down thru sending unit for the bearing play adjustment nut.  Another modification needed was to extend the arm that hooks into the spokes.  This was accomplished by straightening the arm and bending the end of it further out to clear the hub flange and make contact near the spoke base. After tightening down everything and checking bearing play was good, I ended up having to loosen the pivot arm bolts on one side to allow installation of the axel assembly back in to the forks.  The addition of the sending unit added about 5/16" to axel assembly.   I orientated the hub sensor for the best route for the cable to take up cable slack and avoid any sharp bends to route to the guage on handlebars.  I re-lubed cable with dry graphite before finishing.  Note the hub sending unit is double ended, and allows for left or right side installation but the gauge works only when rotated in 1 direction so note this before completion.  Guess how I found that out?  LOL.  I know it's not an original speedo and not period "correct" but easier than looking at my GPS phone app.  It's reading about 2-3mph slow but that's because it's calibrated for 26 and 27" tires.  The odometers nice for noting oil change intervals and trip distance too. 

[Ricks]

OK, the big question is,  How Fast did you go!??

[pd]

That ^ and what is that to the left of the speedometer ?

Would the speed error be due to the fact that you shortened the sending unit arms ?

[carryall]

  I held the needle at 45mph.  (still had a "little" more left)  My GPS said I was going almost 43mph (42.   The metal arm you see in the pic is what "senses" the RPM of the tire.  That's the arm I explained that needed to be straightend/extended past the hub flange to catch the spokes.  The speedometer calculates your speed by using the RPM's of the tire.  Lengthening/shortening that arm doesn't affect the mathematical formula (speedos gear ratio) used. One rotation of the tire is one rotation of the tire, regardless of where on the wheel you measure/calculate it from.  The inaccuracy is probably the manufacturers "averaging" the distance covered by the average 26" tire and a 27" tire each revolution. (It's made for use on both 26" and 27" bikes).   A 27" tire would cover more distance with each revolution than the 26" tire.  Same inaccuracy/effect when you put lower profile tires on a car. 

[carryall]

Sorry I misunderstood your question as to what was to the left .  Thought you meant the left of sending unit.  Now I realize  you meant on the handlebars.  That is a control unit for the tail light, brake light, turn signals and horn.  A formality needed to appease the Dept. of Motor Vehicles when I licensed/titled it. 

[pd]

So the speedometer is completely mechanical as opposed to optical or electrical . I should have guessed that from it being all of 12 bucks .

What state do you live in ?
In Michigan , all that's required is original equipment for title / license .

Pete .

[carryall]

Minnesota.  Land of 10,000 lakes, 10,000 taxes, 10,000 laws and ZERO common sense in government   I "opted" to register/title it as a moped.  Since it doesn't have the original engine, has no VIN number, had no title and never been registered, the DMV would want bonding for title application, DOT inspection, possible motorcycle salvage/reconstruction paperwork, receipts for engine, previous owners info, blah, blah, blah, and WAY TO MUCH PAPERWORK and money.  Been thru it before and in this case not worth the hassle and expense.  As a moped I just needed to take 2 pictures and fill out title application.  Easier and cheaper to get conceal/carry permit and/or machinegun FFL than build/register a motor vehicle in this state.     

[pd]

It always amazes me how much BS the folks in power can come up with in order to keep a handle on those of us that could care less .

In Michigan , I'd need the bike surety bonded for double it's value for a 5 year period , in order to obtain a Michigan State title . That means I have to pay for the states insurance policy ( for 5 years ) that protects them from prosecution should they be sued for wrongful titling .

Pete .

[carryall]

Yep, same here.  My last "big" build, I had to post a bond for $12000 (est. $6k value) for 2 years.  My insurance company covered the bond for $600. ($50 per $1000 bond value)  Last 2 motorcycles I "built" using a donor bikes engine,  I ended up "selling" to my brother in Illinois so he could title/register it because they have much easier regulations.  I then "bought" it back and used that title to transfer ownership back to myself.  Mn states you need VIN# and title transferred into your name of the motorcycle you get the engine from + the other bikes VIN# and engine# info.   I just figured classifying it as a moped wasn't too bad of a "exaggeration" considering the original bikes H.P. was just about within the guidelines for a moped.  (2H.P and 30mph)  Besides a lot of moped owners modify their engines a bit to increase performance and no one's the wiser.  The DOT inspection for motorcycles is really tough.  DOT approved lights, DOT tires, Dual throttle cables, engine noise/emissions, and the usual mirrors, head/tail/brake lights and horn.  My local cops and I get along, but I didn't want to give them a reason to pull me over, so I wired up/modified a unit that supplies me with LED headlight, tail light,  brake light with foot switch and amber turn signals and horn, all from a single 9 volt battey which is housed in the headlight bucket. 

[pd]

Better safe ...

[Sonrisers]

Carryall, would like more info on the light conversion you were referring to earlier, I would like to do something like this to get away from the original lighting. Weren't you selling your bike? Or did you decide to keep it? Thanks.

[carryall]

Decided to keep it when I didn't get a reasonable offer.  As for the headlight conversion, If your engine has charging system intact, I'd just consider replaceing with much brighter 6V LEDs.  My engine has no electrical output so I bought a large 9V LED that I wired to a small toggle switch thru the hole on headlight bucket.  I polished the reflector and removed the original bulb holder from the center and used a dab of silicone adhesive to secure the LED in its place.  The 9v battery is secured on the backside of the reflector using a battery holder clip with small nut/bolt. Most everything was available at Radio Shack except the large 9V LED which I got off E-Bay for couple bucks and included the battery connector. The rest of the electrical mod (tail/brake/turn/horn) was a bit more complicated.  LOL