alernative to boiling out tank

[ltcps]

I've noticed several people mentioning that they were going to boil out their gastanks becauge of rust and sludge.

One trick I have used over the years is a piece of chain and in extreme cases adding CLR anlong with the chain. It has worked for me  and does not harm the tank's paint if your careful not to expose the paint to the CLR too long.

Also, CLR will remove rust stains from painted surfaces extreemly well. It supprised me to find that a painted surface was only stained with the rust for the most part and came off very well with a fine scotch-brite pad and deluted CLR.

Don't try this on a nice painted surface but as to original paint it makes it presentable enought to get a much better price when selling it.

WEAR GLOVES!

[ltcps]

Sorry, but I forgot mention: with the chain in the tank, shake the heck out of it and empty several times.

I usually coat the tank with sealer when done. Allow the sealer to cure before using.

[Mike Sal]

Over the years I've used a little bit of everything.  Sharp small rocks, nuts & bolts, chain, etc.  I've not tried the CLR thou....your right about the shaking!

My tank had been repainted (w/ a big sag on one side), so I'm not too concerned about the paints thats on it now.  We have a local oil field machine shop that has a caustic tank I've used before to clean out studebaker gas tanks, so it's one of the few "easy" access things we have around here.

Mine's setting with a gallon of mineral spirits in it right now....I came down with the stomach flu the other day & wasn't able to take it to town to drop it off.  I'll do that next week.

[ltcps]

Good luck. Post pictures when you get a chance.

[Ricks]

I've done the nut and bolt thing too.  I have not used any sealer in mine, as some people say they peel with age.  I have not had any problems with rust thus far.

[Mike Sal]

I've heard as many horror stories as I have good stories about tank sealers.  I think I'd rather weld in a patch than use a sealer myself.  I know that some guys use it to "stick" crud in place on their cars when they can't seem to get them flushed out adequately.
Mike Sal

[kartjockey]

After the chain trick using Muriatic acid will clean the inside perfectly spotless. You can find it at the hardware store.

[Mike Sal]

The only issue with the muriatic acid is it leave the metal surface really raw & it will re-rust immediately (I've watched a hood rust right before my eyes one time when a buddy was using it to get some rust off some hood side panels....on a very hot humid day in August) if you don't cover it up with something (sealer, paint,....or gas).
Mike Sal

[Kustomkarma]

The last Briggs and Stratton tank I did, I used nuts of various sizes and shapes, filled it with Simple Green and then shook it for a good long while. Every once in awhile, I'd flush it out with water, refill and shake some more. After that I set it in the sun to dry and later used an air compressor and a small MAP gas torch to carefully dry out any remaining water. I was careful to not get near any solder joints. Sometimes I'll use kerosene if the tank is really full of sludge.

[Mike Sal]

ya know, the next time I try to "sand" the inside of a tank I think i'll try drywall screws.  They're sharp enough I'll bet they work better as an abrasive than screws & nuts.   
Mike Sal

[mike montgomery]

Try using the motorcycle tank sealer by POR 15.  It is a three part process: 1.  Cleans the old oil and gas residue out of the tank, 2. phosphoric acid cleans the rust and protects the tank against flash rust for 24 hours, & 3. The tank sealer protects the surface.  I have never had POR 15 sealer peel at all!  Good luck, Mike Montgomery

[michael C]

I have used KREEM tank sealant with good results. It is a 2 part process using phosphoric acid to remove rust then slosh the tank with the sealer.