Conversion

[carryall]

Finally finished up the kick starter modification.  Took time to "beef up" a fold up peg mounting point and had to figure a way to adjust where I wanted the kicker to rest. (and prevent metal to metal contact/rattles)  It engages rock solid, and blends in nicely I think.    

[pd]

Looks great and it even works ?

Pete .

[carryall]

I did notice while testing it out, I was able to re-start the engine without choking it after it was warmed up, unlike before when using the recoil rope.  My guess is that the kicker spins it faster, possibly pulling up fuel into carb better, and/or producing a better spark.  It "kicks over" and starts with very little effort, except on occasion when it engages right at the compression stroke. Then it's almost like starting a real motorcycle.  LOL

[oil-lamp]

Looking pretty good thete. I like the wings for the center cap. Y'all are making me feel like a slacker now. I meed to get cranking on mine soon and getting it done.   

[Sonrisers]

Looks great Paul. What was the reason for moving kicker in closer? Just for looks, or does it make it work better. I just cut the bottom of the pull rope housing out enough so the kicker could engage. It worked out great the first few times I started it, but then it started stripping through when I kicked it. The pinion gear is starting to get chewed up now. Wayne said he may have sent me one that wasn't heat treated, but I wonder if it would work better if it were moved in closer to the motor like yours. Have you ever considered going to Portland? My wife and I have went the last 2 years and it has been a blast. I would love to get a look at your bike in person. I have been downloading the pics you post in my computer, I now have more pics of your bike than mine. lol

[carryall]

I figured locating the kicker as close as possible to the flywheel would allow minimum tolerances for flex between the kicker gear mounting plate, and the engine.  It also will negate/minimize any misalignment and adds strength with the applied leverage.  Before assembly, I thought about welding a gusset on each side of the 3/4" pivot point, and adding reinforcing to the kicker lever itself but I can do that later if warranted.  Without seeing your bike, I'd just be guessing but, I wonder if "tipping" your engine/crank gear downward, towards the pivot point (kicker gear) would help?  You could accomplish this by adding a washer (or 2) under the engine using the 2 mounting bolts on the clutch side.   See crude drawing LOL...

[Sonrisers]

Makes sense, I may try that....you never answered me about Portland though...would like to meet you and chew the fat.

[carryall]

Going to Portland would be nice but, unfortunately, due to finances and obligations to family, (and minimal vacation time from work), I don't foresee it... but ya never know.  I appreciate the invite very much though...   

[Sonrisers]

It's still a long time before then. I think you may be on to something with the drawing above. I thought the motor may have been twisted, but never thought about tilting it.

[carryall]

Just guessing the reason it's "stripping" thru the gear on the crank is, that it's not engaging fully.  Too much "space/distance" between. Possible that the 3/4" shaft is tilted downward (possibly when welded) or a broken weld? 

[Ricks]

James  remember to engage the gear before kicking.  If you just kick it, it will beat up the pinion and sector gears unnecessarily.

[carryall]

I decided against making a chrome/stainless steel cover and decided I prefer the look of my painted cover but, I did find a solution for those who'd like a stainless, or chrome cover for their bike.  A easy adapted horn cover for Peterbuilt, Mack, etc., would work nicely and include mounting points/tabs for simple adaptation.  One seller on E-Bay is Truxmart, among others...they come in sizes ranging from 6" up to 7.5"