Simplex 5 speed build

[Ricks]

Picture posting should be good again. I am no computer guy, but is seems that we had hit the limit set by the forum software, so I increased the limit and it appears to be ok.  If anyone has any more problems, let me know!

[ndian22]

Thanks Rick.

[carryall]

So Ndian22, after you "squeeze" that engine and drivetrain in, given thought to controls?  I always thought about incorporating a foot clutch and jockey shift set-up to a Servi.  I had built a ironhead Sportster/bobber with it, and although a bit clumsy around town, it had a very "retro vibe/look" to it...Just a thought? (wish I had pics of that build, all internal wiring/cables gave it a bare minimalist look)

[ndian22]

Glad you brought the subject up because I haven't. I agree there's certainly a wow factor that appeals & yes the arrangement is a bit awkward in stop and go traffic but with such a lightweight machine & low center of gravity I don't think it would be a great safety concern. Though advanced in years I can still balance my bicycles at stop signs, feet on the pedals while waiting for traffic to pass, proping up a Simplex with one foot down shouldn't be difficult. Rick C.

[ndian22]

Got impatient with the west coast dock strikes and ordered a 125cc 5 speed for the Simplex. I can always use an extra motor when the 150cc comes in. I finally have a definitive measurement on the engine, kinda like our congress having to pass the bill so they know whats in it. I bought two motors to find out their physical size!!
17"Hx12.5"Wx11"L, which will fit with my altered fuel tank concept using two peanut tanks mounted side by side in the stock Simplex tank location. This engine is kick start only, which simplifies layout not having a battery, starter and rectifier to eat up available space & leads to a less cluttered frame.

Engine is rated at 11+hp @8,000rpm, torque 9ft. lbs, just a bit more than my goal of exceeding the hp of the biggest Mustang offered (10.5 hp) with a 4 speed back in the 60's.  Motor is a base model (no carb, exhaust, CDI, shift lever, kick start lever or coil...these I'll get on order this week along with a set of drive sprockets (420 chain) in place of the 428 chain mounted on the engine. Reason for switching to 420 chain & drive sprockets is to use a special wheel hub adaptor on the coaster brake rear wheel. I've successfully used the 420 chain on 20+hp machines in the past.

Also arriving are the Sunlite dual springer forks and a drive off center stand to support the bike at rest. Several other parts are supposed to arrive this week so it's slowly coming together 

[pd]

Would you do us a favor and post your parts sources , please ?

I like the looks of that springer .

Pete .

[ndian22]

Glad to the fork is a Sunlite deluxe springer fork, 1" threaded and is disc brake ready or will accept a drum... 26" wheel up to 2.75" width tire. These are a reproduction with improvements of the classic Monarch springers. I purchased these off ebay for $135. + $17.02 ship...note that the last ones I purchase were about $60. more from a different vendor. I checked and these are still available @$135. this p.m.
Be sure you understand that both 1" & 1&1/8" are often listed some are disc compatible not all will accomodate 2.75"x26"...also the one I ordered does not include the bottom fork tube race or headset. In a previous post I included the info on what I'm using for the headset. As I also build motorized bicycles I'm always searching for good buys on known quality parts and use a lot of different sources which I'm happy to share with all. Just ask for a specific part or parts & I'll reply with what vendors have worked for me.

[ndian22]

PD      US-EXPR is the ebay vendor I ordered from, listed in cycling parts... about 2 week delivery & arrived in great shape.  Rick C.,

[pd]

Excellent . Thanks , Rick C.

Pete .

[ndian22]

Got some rubber on the wheels, actually just wanted to see what the 2.4"x26" tires would look like on the springer fork & wide rims & I'm sure 2.75"x26" would easily fit these forks. Just messing around with ordering parts right now & getting a better vision of how it will look when completed...no big hurry here. RickC.

[carryall]

Are you going to go with solid, or rubber/isolated engine mounts on the engine?

[ndian22]

I favor isolation mounts & am considering mount design now. The motor has 5 well placed mount locations (2 lower front and 2 lower rear & 1 rear up on the head)  I've been told these engines are well balanced & therefore by nature smooth, but a layer of rubber can't hurt.
Trying to work in a little time next week to get a rolling chassis ready for initial mock up. Splitting time between building a truck and 2 cars limits time I can spend on the bike yet I'll get there. Rick C.

[ndian22]

Just bits and pieces. Using the Sunlite dual springer fork with disc brakes may not be something the forum is acquainted with & thought it might be informative if I went into a bit more detail. To begin with this is a strong fork for use on primarily bicycles but has proven itself on not only peddle bikes but also on hundreds of motorized bikes and even light motorcycles. The version I've chosen comes with disc brake caliper mounts on the right side legs, which is opposite of most bicycle mount position for lets say disc brake equipped mountain bikes. This poses no problem in selecting front caliper, rotor or rotor adaptor. I'm using an Avid brand front caliper and a 160mm Avid rotor...basic mountain bike stuff. The Sta-tru bike wheel has disc rotor mounting capability. I could have gone to 180mm or larger rotor but really don't like the look & 160mm stop light street bikes well.

When using this combination one must remember that the tire must be mounted on the wheel for rotation opposite of what it would normally be with the disc rotor on the left side of the fork . You guys with a lot of bicycle experience already know this stuff but some probably don't.

I,ve pictured the forks with some bars I bent up, 24" wide and an alloy BMX style ahead stem made for a 1&1/8" fork & the custom bars. Since the Simplex head (steerer tube) is a 1"  as is the dual springer fork tube, I required an alloy adaptor to mount the ahead stem to the threaded fork tube and then to the new handlebars.
Using this steering setup gives me the option of changing bar height or even flipping the bar upside down while raising or lowering the bar height and angle. Completely changing to a different handle bar style is also made simple. This combination I feel also gives the steering a more finished look.

Still waiting on parts and building on the truck and two Chevy sedans so progress is quite minimal on the Simplex.  Rick C.   

[carryall]

I had a set of bars similar to yours but, had to change them to something a bit straighter because they interfered with tighter turns and hit my knees/legs.

[ndian22]

I actually took the basic shape for the handlebars from the 1960 shop manuel posted on this forum. It shows in 2 dimensions a drawing of the bars, of course it's flat & I imposed a bit of imagination as to bar width (22") and to incorporate an additional 3-D element to the bar shape.
By using the dual springer forks I've quite a range of adjustment to bar height using the threaded section (prior to cutting to final length) and tube spacers. The stem adaptor also allows up to 1.5" of additional height and of course the bar angles are infinately adjustable at the stem to position the bar to hand positions perfectly. I envision the bars to easily clear both my knees and tank.
I plan on locating the saddle a bit more to the rear & low in the frame just a couple of inches above the tire, much like an early board track racer position. Haven't mocked it up yet, but that's what I've imagined. Rick C.