Simplex 5 speed build

[pd]

 Rick ,

I must be missing something . I'm sure it works , but , I'm not seeing how it works .
Maybe I just got up too early this morning .

Pete .

[ndian22]

Step down on pedal plate & this rotates the rod (kick stand leg) which rotates the brass bushing attached at rod's end & finally to the brake cable end. The bushing gives a 5:1 advantage & allows a 2" pull to the cable controlling the brake caliper. I used a throttle noodle to attach the brake cable to the frame clamp & ease transition of the cable in that sharp 90 degree bend. Works smooth as glass the brakes really pull the bike down in a hurry. Super fast & easy solution to rear caliper control, once conceived, though quite unconventional I'll admit. Using the 1" tube clamp to hold the affair allowed easy alignment in two planes for trial and error positioning & the spring helps the caliper spring in returning the lever to the neutral position, along with the additional spring aft of the foot pedal. 


Rick C.

[pd]

NOW I see . Rotate definitely makes more sense than the push I thought might be .

So , I should refrain from posting too early . LOL

Anyway , nice innovation , Rick .

Pete .

[ndian22]

I started my sidecar frame for the Simplex & the torsion spring half axle should be here next week. This to spring the car wheel & I'm going leaf springs on the rear to spring the car body shell. The overall length of the frame is 41" including the leaf springs. Basic frame shown is 20" wide. Completed and attached the car will add 48" total width (hub to frame) to the bikes width. I've thought total weight should be under a hundred pounds for the completed rig but I've been cautioned that light car weight creates handling problems with the car unloaded. Some suggest carrying ballast weight when not carrying a full size passenger. I'll test cautiously during the setup phase, but first loaded (best manners) and gradually reduce the ballast as I become acquainted with the feel of an attached car. I've been studying side car setup for a couple of years now & it's time to put another wheel under this ongoing Simplexish build.


Rick C. 

[ndian22]

Basic frame and 18" wheel

[pd]

Looks like a fun project , Rick .

Definitely keep us posted as it progresses .

Pete .

[Ricks]

Rick, what kind of fittings are you using for the joints?

[ndian22]

These are 1" stainless marine tube couplers normally seen on canvas tops and boat rail joints. They use set screws to secure. I see an advantage in using them during design and eliminating weld tacks. I can easily vary the width, length or both and arrange various cross member positions, or add at will.


When the design is complete gussets, plates etc. can be added and welded. The couplers are quite strong but not nearly sufficient in and of themselves for the hack frame. I will leave them in place on the finished frame 'cause I like the look, plenty of structural support will be required to tie it all together.

I'll post a picture of one up close, they are available in T, elbow, various angles etc. I've seen them in 7/8" I.D. as well... end plugs also.

Rick C.

[ndian22]

Stainless 1"T coupler for tube.

[ndian22]

I'm thinking about swapping the 5 speed engine on the Simplex for a 4 speed motor (same make and size so a bolt in swap) with reverse for use with the side car. My other option is powering the outside car wheel using an electric hub wheel, reversed, powered with lead batteries (for added car ballast) housed in the car. At this point the car will need to weigh more than I initially considered for good handling (an oxymoron I'm told) with side car attached. I'd like the car to weigh as much as the unloaded bike. I'll need the reversing capabilities in real use situations with total unloaded (combined) rig weight around 350 lbs. I'm leaning towards the electric solution at the moment. Total costs of either project seem about equal.


Rick C.

[ndian22]

Torsion axle came in & I'll cut the hub off today. I'll continue the work on the car frame using the 18" wheel I have in hand, while I do some additional study on using a powered electric hub for the car wheel for reversing function. If I change over to the electric hub I might have to slightly alter the axle height, easy enough to do.

If I opt to go with a 4 speed with reverse gear power. It's a straight bolt on & won't alter the sidecar setup at all. No excuses to delay building the frame with any of my considered options to add a reverse function for the rig. I'm doing this thing as long as my heath remains stable!

Rick C.

[pd]

Interesting , Rick .

And , lets not give your health a chance to take a vacation .

Pete .

[Bob53]

Rick, this sounds like an excellent winter project. Do you have a link for the 4 speed with reverse engine. This setup could be great for a trike project. I'm still going to make it down the road to come visit sometime. Only 2 hours away, we need to get together. Bob

[ndian22]

Bob that sounds a treat, let's pursue a visit.

Now on to trikes and such. I checked Ebay for listings and that particular listing has been taken down. The 250 Lifan and other manufacturers of the Honda CG engines are pretty common on eBay with reverse equipped engines found under atv rather than motorcycle.

The 125 CC with reverse I mentioned was a local salvage atv. 250 cc engines are more commonly used in atv builds..

Have you considered using a go cart reverse gearbox? These can be mated to most 3/4" output shaft motors and 30 series torque converters up to 13 hp & cost about $120. without converter. Forward, neutral and reverse lever and cable type control. Just thinking out loud here. The setups I've encountered seem to function very well and were quite sturdy. 13 hp with torque converter on a trike would be some fun!  Lots of engine options as well. I also think the CG 250 w/reverse a nice selection depending on how you want to use the trike. They make about 12 hp in ATV form...so a couple less than the 5 speed 250 moto version. I don't see that as a problem. Total engine weight is about 80 lbs. and like all trikes that much weight needs to be mounted really low.

I've had such great success with my 125 CC on two different builds that I'm reluctant to switch out what I have for a salvage engine of unknown condition. So I've ordered a 48 volt 1000 watt motor and controller with chain drive to power my sidecar in reverse only mode. The motor could be used for forward power as well, but I can't see a great utility in this, as I'll be reducing by 6 to one with the sprockets I've ordered.


I looked at the powered hub setups, but the wheels didn't inspire much confidence, extremely light weight. I'll just stick with my 18" d.o.t. wheel and speed rated rubber for the extra load carry advantage.

I've been wanting to use an electric motor on one of my builds for awhile now & the sidecar seems an easy entry level electric project and 4 lead cell 12 v. batteries will add some needed ballast to the empty car. I'd like the unloaded weight of both bike and car to equal out at 175 each and I'll probably need an extra 50 lbs. of ballast in addition to the batteries to achieve this balance.


Rick C.

[ndian22]

Bob I've just talked myself into using the go cart reverse gear setup with the electric motor/controller to power the sidecar. I can now see the utility of having a low speed redundant power source for emergency use at slow speeds. Run out of gas or stall in traffic etc. The box provides double the reduction ratio in reverse to that of forward and 2,800 max at the box. I'll be able to keep my reverse speed to a crawl and forward to maybe 10 mph with proper final drive sprockets (without using the huge wheel sprocket). And totally zero arbor spin with the gear selector in neutral. I could alter the controller but not have the same benefits.

Rick C.