Simplex 5 speed build

[ndian22]

Getting the parts and pieces rounded up to re-assemble the "Copper Gator" like to get the bike together before the weekend & see where I'm at on engine fit up.

[ndian22]

Frame painted and re-assembly started. It's all going to fit but so tight in spots due to the addition of pedals to my design...made the whole build a lot more difficult, but the co-axle drive setup is so much cleaner than using a jack shaft arrangement. Of course it increased the cost as well unless you can machine the parts yourself.

Merry Christmas, Rick C.

[carryall]

That thing is going to be way fast!!!  Hope the frame and all those welds are strong enough.  Doing 70mph and getting the "death wobbles" on such a short wheel based bike could make for an "interesting" experience!  A steering damper might be in its future.  Very cool.     

[Bob53]

I'll bet this beast will even climb hills! Merry Christmas

[carryall]

Hell, it'll climb trees!

[ndian22]

I appreciate the comments guys & merry Christmas to you all.

The bike does have speed potential which I will not ever approach on bicycle tires. Speed rated tires mounted on trials type wheels are a future possibility, but this design is centered on 1910'ish bicycle look including small tubes, coaster brake, springer forks and pedals. It's been updated in power and safety with disc brake up front & 95 percent of the original tube replaced with heavy wall DOM tubing that is many times stronger than the original. Flat plate is .25" thick and all welds completed by certified welders in a shop that specializes in rebuilding and stretching of Peterbilt trucks and  trailers been doing this and building hot rods (four this year) race cars and motorcycles for many decades. Every man in the shop recognizes & turns out quality work and welds using highest quality equipment and materials.

The short wheel base is a concern even though it was stretched a half foot or so, about 55" now if I recall, that coupled with the fork rake and the springers inate characteristics are all reason for much caution during break in and shake down runs. I do have a stabilizer in parts that was on a custom bobber for awhile, which I mistrusted until it proved unnecessary for that bike.

Thanks for your input & interest in a project that is as far away from a restoration as it gets. I would never have butchered a complete bike in decent condition for a build like this. Simplex's are too few in number to destroy a good one.  Rick C.   

[Bruce]

I'm counting 6 sprockets...pedal power 2.   Engine to jack shaft 2 then 2 drives.  Can't you just come out of the 5 sp direct to rear? Why go to the shaft?

[ndian22]

Hi Bruce, Got timed out again during a thorough explanation to your good question. This is brief & photos will be posted to illustrate after sizing. Engine sprocket is located 2" or so outside the frame rail when engine is balanced in the frame. Chain angle formed by such an extreme single chain setup would jump the chain off the sprocket, to say nothing about sawing the frame tubes like a chain saw.  Moving the engine any further to starboard would result in an extremely unstable ride and look silly as well. Engine & outside sprocket form the primary drive chain and the offset inside sprocket connected to the rear axle sprocket comprise the secondary drive chain. Each drive chain can remain dead straight with it's companion sprocket. This is the primary benefit though there are other advantages as well such as reduction coupling for fine tuning final drive ratios etc. Photos should clarify.  Rick C.
 

[ndian22]

Bruce refer to my reply # 106 on this page photo # 1 indicates how far outside the frame tubes that outside sprocket is in the photo before the engine is mounted in it's correct location which puts the engine sprocket out an additional .75".
Photo attached shows engine and final chain lines which are straight arrow between sprockets with no chain contact with tire or frame. Rick C.   

[carryall]

What's your plan/design for its exhaust system?  Low mount, scrambler/high mount, straight header?  Haven't got that far?  LOL.  Lookin good....

[ndian22]

Good to here from you, hope all is well with you. I'm making good progress at an Old Guy's pace and should have the Gator growling in a few days. Got a Peterbilt in the shop for a water pump replacement etc. & another 1946 Chevy rat rod PU truck under construction so bicycles are about the only thing you can work on at the same time and get anything accomplished as we are a the moment in a significant winter storm with 50mph winds. Outside work is basically stopped, though and power outages are quite probable, which shuts us down completely.
Thanks for the props. Exhaust is coming up and am weighing scrambler, high short tuck or short header dumping straight down between the front frame tubes and duplicating the frames angle (swept back). I've tried not to mount much that competes with or conceals the lines, angles or radius of the original frame. Scrambler pipes would compete with the frame & so I'm leaning to the header right now. Which ever design I follow the plan is for a solid copper exhaust 1" pipe size to a muffler of my design consisting of a copper reduction cap fitted over a 7" length of 2" ID Copper pipe ending with another copper reduction cap. the 1" header tube will run through the larger muffler body and have a series of 1/4" holes drilled and the cavity loosely filled with fiberglass. Copper has a very nice resonance. The shop has a full a muffler service as well & a lot of experience in not only large commercial vehicles but also motorcycle and hot rod work as well, so I think a lot about exhaust design. I'll post a photo of some of the parts I've gather for the copper muffler latter. 
Going to have quite a lot of copper on the bike before it's completed.  Rick C. 
 

[ndian22]

Found a photo not exactly as described but shows a few bits assembled & kinda looks like it could become a muffler. Rick C

[Bruce]

I see now, was wondering,that's all.    Keep building

[Ricks]

I see now, was wondering,that's all.    Keep building

Bruce, are you working on your truck project, or did you give up on it?

[carryall]

I follow your thinking on running it down and back "low".  When I finally decided on my "fishtail" exhaust, (I tried a couple designs) I too, found I needed to add some 1/4" holes along with a removable/internal wrapped baffle tube, in order to bring the exhaust tone ""down" and quiet it "just a bit" without inducing excessive back-pressure/restriction.  Luckily, a 4 stroke is way less "finicky" than doing a 2 stroke performance set-up, which allows a lot more imagination. Really cool, and the black/copper combo is a great choice. (older pic, but it shows the exhaust set-up) P.S. like you, I live in a place where the "local law enforcement" uses some judgement as to what a motorcycle and/or a moped is...I registered mine as a moped since I cruise it "in-town" below 45mph. and have no issues with them other than curiosity.  LOL