Simplex 5 speed build

[Ricks]

Did some riding that involved a lot of hills and twisty sections and found myself using first gear a lot, not so much for acceleration but for the great engine compression braking that both 1st. & 2nd. gear provides. Brake balance between front and rear is really quite good when compression, proper gear selection and rear coaster are applied in combination with the front disc and stopping distance from 40 mph is pretty impressive. Rick C. 

I didn't know you guys even had hills in Oklahoma!  Years ago I spent several months in OKC and as I recall it is as flat as a pancake.

[ndian22]

LOL, Rick Indian Territory is quite diverse in topography & Oklahoma City is the break point, neither nor. Go west you find the "badlands" (where the richest farm and ranching land is found, go figure) & the hilly, heavily timbered land is to the east. I'm located in the southwest corner of the state which is topographically quite diverse ranging from rolling terrain shot through with rivers, creeks and canyons to the highest "mountain" in the state which is part of the largest of two mountain "ranges" located in this area. Mt. Scott (just off the military reservation of Ft. Sill at Lawton, Ok.) I was recently told, by a competitive young bicyclist from Colorado Springs, that Mt. Scott was the toughest accent he's ever climbed on a bike, the grade is pretty intense if a 20 something road racer marks it as the worst! Those who only see Oklahoma from the interstates might have a similar impression as your own & I also agree that the interstate drives are pretty much yawners.

A few years back my favorite niece came for a week long visit & photographed just the S.W. quadrant of the state. Repeatedly she commented that her friends back home were not going to believe how truly beautiful Oklahoma is. I kinda like the setting of her home as well... on the big island, Hawaii!  Come ride, I've got spares or bring your own and don't forget the camera. Rick C.

 

[ndian22]

Added a steering damper/stabilizer/stop. Precaution only as I noticed when pushing the bike around the shop the steering would suddenly "break" right or left at about 35 degrees of angle. Two Harley clamps with foot peg attachment, coupled to an MC stabilizer fixed that. I hadn't noticed any bad ride or handling problems just that slow speed quirk around the shop. I set the damping about mid range & it slowed the steering speed a noticeable amount and decreased the rough road feed back to my hands, which I greatly appreciate.   Rick C.

[Eitek1]

Could you provide the location and part number for the rims that you used. I looked for the Sta-Tru wheels in that size with the disc brake and didn't have any luck. I did see the coaster brake option but not the Disc type.

Thanks

[ndian22]

Hi Eitek,
Wheel info requested is listedbelow, but keep in mind I'm running a 3/8" axle front and rear on my Simplex Gator. If you'r running both Simplex forks and frame they are cut for the larger 1/2" axle diameter & require a special adaptor bushing to secure a 3/8" axle in the larger original 1/2" axle drops. Also keep in mind I'm running a coaster brake and chain sprocket and not a belt. As always one guys build can create problems when substitutions are made on another build & without knowing exactly what you're design is I'm just guessing. If you're wanting a disc brake on the rear as well as on the front then much more info is required. 
 
My vendor for Sta-tru wheels is Custom Motored Bicycles in Greendale, Wi. I've bought several sets of these from Lynn (414) 732-0017 comes right up in your search engine. She's a seasoned motorized bike builder as well & not just an operator of a parts house. Her site doesn't use part numbers. There is a yellow product bar on the right side to select product categories. Scroll down & click on the box titled "chrome rim heavy duty bicycle wheels 26 inch x 2.125 assembled in USA better chrome" and you'll see the Sta-tru's listed for both front and rear 11 gauge SS spokes disc brakes (coaster & free wheel). Good luck.  Rick C.

[Eitek1]

Thanks for the info and thanks for the warning as well. I'm just getting started on planning my build. I purchased a frame from KartJockey and am getting my ducks in a row. I'm a measure 4 times cut once kind of guy. That being said, I need all the help I can get.

I'm planning on going with a belt drive and I'm weighing the options for wheels. I like the idea of a front disc brake but I have to make sure it works out for my build. Your info is a great help.

Jason

[ndian22]

Jason I'm excited for you. I love the design phase & making decisions...even the ones that don't work out. If you decide to stay pretty close to the original Simplex design and run belts then good for you. The guys who've built the belt drives are the ones to seek council from & there's a wealth of information and talent on this forum to assist you. I'm devoted to chain transmission cause it's what I comfortable with, though I'm starting to understand & appreciate the Simplex & Whizzer designs, I'm unqualified to render advice in this area, but I'd suggest that building a belt sheave on a new wheel which wasn't designed for belt drive might be a bit more complex than just finding a Simplex rear assembly rebuilt or rebuilding yourself. Read the posts on this forum & learn why most stayed with the Simplex wheels & belt drive even on highly modified designs like my own. If I can help in any way let me know.  Rick C.

[ndian22]

Trial & error + persistence & I'm glad to report the steering damper a success despite not being certain I had a valid problem to begin with. Real result is less road vibration through the bars and that shows up in the rear view mirrors being   "clear" & hands are more rested after a long ride. 

Though I loved the Ram's horn shape of the bars I bent, I've replaced them with a set of replica Indian board track handlebars from Sportsman flyer. They just have that vintage racy look and feel that I'd wanted from the start and just wasn't getting from my bars. I have them on my daily rider & think I was just forcing myself away from using them on two bikes that I plan on keeping. I take pride on not duplicating previous fabrications, but sometimes being stubborn takes away from the completed project. Now the Copper Gator looks more like my concept of what a Simplex board track/flat track bike would have looked like if Simplex had chosen to go racing with the big boys, Indian & Harley etc., in the early years of moto cycles. Course Simplex didn't even exist as a company at the time, but that's my day dream and my build. Rick C. 

[Ricks]

I really like those bars. I think they do justice to the board track look. Pat does great work, his bikes are really nice.

Rick, your bike turned  out great!  It was a pleasure following along with your build.  We need more members who take the time to document their projects so people can bounce Ideas off each other.  Thanks!

[ndian22]

Rick I sincerely appreciate your comments & accolades & the spirit of their offering. As you and I suspect a few others which participate in this forum are aware I post in a motor bicycling forum as well. I actually became aware of this forum as a result of reading several posts that mentioned you as taking over the helm of a Simplex group and I started lurking a bit, for a long while.

Participation...that's a big key to a forum's success & I didn't, though I sometimes thought I had something to say or share; I didn't. You obviously put in a good deal of your time in keeping things running & you have a good core group which support you, each other, new members and this site. Participation at Portland is a big deal each year and lifts the interests not only those who attend but also those of us who eagerly await the photos and stories attached to the meet.

This is definitely a special forum that will survive only if there is activity among the forum enthusiasts which will attract the hesitant among us who also appreciate the Simplex Servi-cycle and are willing to share their enthusiasm with others of like mind. Rick though you bear a large part of the work load, which is greatly appreciated; it's also the members that determine the post by post success of this forum. Sharing our passion in detail can at times not only instruct but also inspire others to dream, build and share as well. This forum has a solid core who eagerly share & hopefully others will stop lurking, as I did, and join in on a day by day basis... not just when they have a big project ongoing or a problem. Keep posting or start posting, but post. If I'm interested in what others have to share then so are others.   Rick C.   

[pd]

Well stated , Rick C.



Pete .

[Ricks]

Well stated , Rick C.



Pete .

x2!

[ndian22]

I've spent a couple of enjoyable days searching for an a handlebar setting that is safe, comfortable and looks "right", Pat at Sportsman flyer advised me to adjust for the perfect look for car & bike shows (photos) & change for day to day riding...very sensible approach & advice I'll follow.

The best "look" is with a classic straight "cruiser" stem,  with bar grip cap pointing almost straight down...racy look & totally a show adjustment, almost impossible to ride this way on the streets of course.  I've been using a stem adapter coupled to a 50 mm BMX bicycle "ahead stem" to mount the handle bars. I tried a 110 mm ahead stem that increases the bars forward location another 2" + and that greatly improved bike operation and ride comfort. After learning I was going in the right direction I re-purposed a new old stock mountain bike adjustable ahead stem which was also 110 mm in length and was fully adjustable through a vertical range of  0 to 55 degrees, with the push of a lever bar height can be adjusted on the fly (total bar goes up & down through the full 55 degree range of motion in an arc). It also features a tiny air over oil spring/shock to absorb & isolate the hands & upper torso from the fork & frame. I bought 3 of these from a dealer in the UK a few years back. This is the last of them.

With the adjustable head stem the bike feels much larger and for daily riding it allows the bars to remain lower than would have been possible with the shorter ahead stem...looks better. The little shock works like a charm & for ultimate ride comfort I raise the bars at the push of a button, but the bike looks better with them lowered. Compromise solution that works for me & also has real ride benefits as well. Side issue is the head light has to be relocated a bit lower as well. I'll ride it awhile before making the change permanent. Rick C.     

[ndian22]

Flipped the light bracket upside down and mounted the headlight. Think I'll call it good on the front of the Copper Gator...for now.  RickC.

[pd]

Looks like that might just work . I guess it would depend on how much travel that handlebar mount needs .

Pete .