Engine.....Kick Starter

[Mike Sal]

One of the things I noticed after getting the bike home was that sometimes the gear teeth would slip when trying to kick the engine over.  The things I see are that there is some wear on the frame mounting shaft and the brass bushing in the kicker.  The other thing I notice is that the left "pivot piece" which connects the sector gear to the kicker has a very large hole vs the size of the pin of the pivot piece.  This seems to be the greatest contributor to the gears not being close enough together.  

I can weld up & re-turn the mounting shaft from the frame, if I can get it off.  It doesn't look like there's any way to get to the nut for the bolt that holds the shaft without removing the motor first.  I wasn't really wanting to pull the engine yet.  This bike is in decent enough shape, I'd like to get it running before starting any restoration projects (meaning re-painting).  

[Mike Sal]

Guess I didn't figure out how to put more than one photo on a post......

[admin]

Mike, I just recently did this.    I bought new rivets and links from Wayne. I also bought some bronze bushings and bushed the rivet holes.  Wayne told me the one hole is supposed to be oversize, but I bushed them all and just reamed the one hole slightly larger than the rest.  I also rebushed the kickstart pedal.  Works much nicer now, without all the slop.

Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of this.


Rick

PS: I also resized your photos so they fit on the screen.

[Vince]

Mike,

I happen to be new to this forum having joined just last week. I recently purchased a 1947 Simplex that I hope to restore back to original. However, before I start dismantling the bike, I, like you would like to get it running first and I've noticed the same problem with the kick starter where the gears don't seem to line up as they should. I bought a couple of new parts from Wayne Mahaffey today so hopefully I'll be able to get this thing started. I look forward to following your restoration as well as communicating the progress on mine. I'm sure that, from time to time, I'm going to need some help from the experts on this forum. Thanks.

Vince

[Mike Sal]

I just got off the phone with Wayne & have the bushing & pins ordered as well as some new spokes, a tail light lens, & an air cleaner element.

I guess I'll pull the engine mounting bolts so I can lift the engine up enough to get to that kick starter shaft nut (so I can remove the shaft).  Wayne suggested just turning the shaft over so the worn area is on the bottom, but if I'm going to the trouble to pull it off, I'll weld it up & turn it down on the lathe.  No sense in putting a new bushing on a worn shaft.

I think I'll do the same thing as Rick & put a bushing in that big hole for the one pivot pin, & then start oversizing it until it works ok. 
Mike Sal

[Mike Sal]

Have any of you checked out that kick starter on ebay (search simplex servi cycle)?  What models did this fit?  Or, was this style of gear used by other brands too?


Hmmm. still no package from Wayne....may have to call him tomorrow....I've thought of a couple of other things to order......
Mike Sal

[Ricks]

I saw that also.  I'm an NOT sure, but I think it is from a simplex sportsman.  I wonder if that type was also used on the simplex scooter that they made in the late 50's.  Mike, if you talk with Wayne, ask him.

[Mike Sal]

Does anyone else have frames in which the shaft is welded to the frame?  Mine is not just tacked in place, but has a full length weld on boths sides of the shaft (to the motor mount plate).  It's a factory weld.

Now I'll have to weld up the shaft & file it down by hand.
Mike Sal

[Ricks]

Mike, my 53 and 54 both have bolt in shafts, but the 49 has a welded in one.  I wonder why they changed back and forth.  It seems to me it would have been easier for the factory to just weld them in, but for maintainence, bolt in wins hands down.

Rick

[Mike Sal]

Mine has the nut & bolt also.  I was really confused after removing the bolt & not being able to remove the shaft.  They had to have installed the bolt first, then welded it before painting.  Seemed kinda silly to belt & suspender it.  I wonder if maybe the welded ones were a salvage operation on the frame....maybe the hole the shaft goes threw was accidently drilled oversize & they had to weld the shaft to keep proper location.
Mike Sal

[admin]

Mike, that would certainly be interesting.  Do you think you could grind the weld out, or would it cause too much damage?

[Mike Sal]

I was hoping I could cut the welds, but when I turned the frame over to get a better look, I see that it is welded on both sides of the shaft & the welds are about 4 inches long.  Way too much trouble to cut it out.
Mike Sal

[Ricks]

Did someone say plasma cutter?  LOL!!  I wish I had one sometimes.

Rick

[Mike Sal]

Ya, a plasma cutter is definetly on my wish list of toys.  I've heard the harbor freight cheapy ones aren't that bad.  If a guy used one all the time, it would pay to have a name brand, but for me it would only be an occaisional use toy.
Mike Sal

[admin]

Mike, 20 years ago I bought an HF mig welder. It lasted about 2 hours and burned up.  I returned it, bought a Lincoln mig and have never looked back.  I am a firm believer in you get what you pay for.

Rick