Great pictures. Thank you. Since you have a bare frame, this is an excellent starting point for me.
That image of the frame from the manual wasn’t the best example. For starters, i could see that the wheels weren’t round so i had to stretch the image in the X to 105% to make them round, then adjusted the scale of the imported image off of the “known” 26” tires. But i’ve read that the wheelbase is approximately 48”-49”…. My drawing is a bit short at 46.8”, and the image was based on a manual and not an Automatic, so i want to start over with my drawing.
Since you have a bare frame at the moment, if i could ask you for few rather specific pictures that would greatly improve the accuracy of everything.
Close-ups are great for showing details, but don’t work very well for importing in to CAD to copy accurate dimensions. For smaller hand sized parts, i place them on the floor, stand directly over it so I’m perpendicular to the part, then i’ll zoom in with the camera to fill in the frame to take the picture.
With something as large as the servi-cycle frame, you’ll need to be several feet away. Ideally, far enough away that the farther (left) frame rails is hidden behind the (right) rails in the foreground. Being perpendicular to the center mass (red dot area in the attached imagine). Once you’re far enough away that the farther rail is mostly hidden, just use the zoom to fill the frame in the camera.
If you could assemble the fork assembly to the frame, even if in a temporary fashion, that would ensure that i can get the correct rake angle on the neck. A white sheet as a backdrop to eliminate the background, or a large piece of cardboard so the frame stands out.
It will be impossible to hide the entire left rail behind the right rail in the picture …so if you center the left rail inside the right rail while viewing through the camera, you know you are perpendicular to center mass. If it’s difficult to discern the right rail from the left in the picture after you take it, you can cover most of the insides of the left rail with the sheet and re-take the picture, just remember the exact spot you took the original picture.
If you could put a black dot on a piece of painters tape like i’ve shown in the attached picture, that will give me a point to scale from. Two known points of the largest dimension will increase the accuracy of scaling.
In the one picture of the neck, you show what looks to be about 4”. What is the width of the neck “box”? I added some arrows, if you could take pictures of those views also…curious as to the details as to how the seat strap is attached to the frame.
Before assembling the forks, if you could take a picture straight from the front. Since the crash bar is not straight across the top, i need that angle. “straight” as in perpendicular to the crash bar uprights, not the frame itself, since those uprights aren’t straight up and down.
I live in Dover Pa. in York County, about 15 minutes northwest of York city. It’s been rain every day this week, so i haven’t been able to ride the Honda at all. Next week is supposed to be a little dryer.
I’m constantly thinking of ways to fabricate all of the parts involved. Also fixtures, jigs and make some special tools to make things easier. I used to have a 0-80 tap and a small assortment of 0-80 screws and nuts, but i haven’t seen them since we moved 12 years ago. They make a nice quarter scale 1/4” bolt. For each part i make, i’ll make 2. One for me, one for you.
Thanks again, Blaine
