A rider ...

[pd]

Thanks for your input .

The clearance seems excessive , but , there is no lube which might take up as much as .0015" ( maybe a bit more ) .

I have to agree , the belt will or should absorb a good bit of play as it will encompass a bit over half the pulley surface when active .

I'll run it as is and note how things run out .

[pd]

To add to the previous post , the governors ( roller throw out weights ) will also help to keep the moveable sheave running true . Probably more so in the double track transmission , which my bike has .

[pd]

What is the best method for changing the transmission bearings ?

[pd]

Do the transmission bearings sit in a landing or are they in a straight walled tube with the axle spacer tube holding them in place ?

[pd]

A side note : I've found that my MT-9B carb , that was on my bike when I bought it , was used on  a 1951 Power  Power mower : Tillotson MT9B . ( http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/IndustrialkitsP.htm )

And , the MT-48A carb was used from late '52 thru '56 on the 60 Series Cushman scooters .

[pd]

Do the transmission bearings sit in a landing or are they in a straight walled tube with the axle spacer tube holding them in place ?

Nearly a week and 189 views ... still not a single response to my questions .

I have to assume that no one knows the answers . Thanks , anyway .


I was able to free the transmission bearings after removing the bearing shields and applying heat to help evacuate the old grease . I then liberally applied brake cleaner to both now open bearings . I'm left with a very slight growl , but the transmission spins freely on the bearings , so , I'll run the old bearings after I pack them with a molybdenum based assembly grease and reinsert the previously removed shields .

FYI :

1 : The parts drawing seems to indicate the main tube is 'stepped' and that each bearing has it's own landing . Considering the tight tube to race clearances , that would not allow a 'drive through' bearing removal .
I'm not sure even an internal bearing puller would work due to the tight clearances between the inner bearing races and the internal 'guide' tube .
2  : The automatic transmission bearings have only the outside shields . The small hole in the right side of the main tube allows lube to both bearings . I verified that fact by shinning a light through the open bearing section on one end and seeing a bright small beam through the bearing on the other end .

[Mike Sal]

Since I didn't have to remove my bearings, I didn't really know how to answer you.  I wondered what that little hole was for.....it seem too far away from the bearings to be for oiling, but it seem to be the only logical explanation.  I would think it would be an oily mess to pump oil into the hole & then ride......won't the centrifical force spray a lot of it all over the place?

I think your growlly bearings probably should be replaced.  The noise indicates the races & balls are no longer smooth.  I would think you could get the inner spacer out of the way, then use a long drift to come in from one side & knock out the one on the other side.

Lots-o-luck
Mike Sal

[Ricks]

I have changed the bearings on 2 transmission, and I just pushed them out with a drift. They came right out, and I put the new ones in with a plastic face hammer. 

If you need to remove the outer, non movable aluminum pulley, this is done by removing the snap ring, if yours has one, and then heating the pulley with a propane torch.  The pulley will then slide right off.  Reinstall by heating the pulley again, and it slides right on with a slight tap of the mallet.

[pd]

Mike ,
Drifting the bearings out from either end was my plan . I did try moving the inner tube . But it's very tightly lodged between the two bearing inner races to the point of both bearings inner races moving simultaneously .
Heck , I even bought new bearings in anticipation .

As for the small hole in the main tube , I think it's meant for lubing . Probably with a thick oil , occasionally . If there's a problem with oil seepage , the hole could be plugged with a small amount of grease . That hole is just the right size to accept the small red concentration/directional tube that comes with a number of spray lubes .

Rick ,
I couldn't get any catch on the inner races . There wasn't enough clearance for the edge if the drift to hold . Maybe I'll just have to get more aggressive .

I've already removed the non-moveable sheave per your directions in another thread . Thanks for that .
Makes cleaning the main tube a lot easier .

[Ricks]

I was able to push the inner tube over without any hard force. As a matter of fact, when  I reassemble the trans on the shaft, I need to make sure the tube is lined up correctly, as the shaft gets hung up going back in.

[pd]

Success !!!
I used a little different leverage point and a bigger hammer to get the inner tube to move enough for a decent driving point . Both old bearings are now laying on the bench , crying to be tossed . That tube was in there pretty dang good . A lot tighter than I thought it would be .

I have to dig my grease gun out so I can do a proper job of packing the new bearings before I install them . They come with 'some' grease packed , but there's plenty room for more .
I'm really glad I got the old ones out as they are worse than they seemed when still installed .

I figured that I'd have to use the bolt the bearings will ride on as a guide for aligning the inner tube while installing the new bearings .

Thanks for the 'encouragement' . 

[Ricks]

What, no picture???  LOL  Let's see your transmission.  The two I have done are different from the one Mike Sal has.

[pd]

Ask and ye shall rec...

Here's a pic of my double track automatic transmission in it's current state , sans the two governors and associated guides & bolts :

[pd]

Can we get some comparison pics , please ?

[Ricks]

Can we get some comparison pics , please ?

Pictures and a discussion of this is here: http://www.simplexservi-cycle.com/index.php?topic=223.30

Sorry, the pictures I posted were not the greatest.