A rider ...

[pd]

While removing the flywheel to access the points cam , I heard some scrapping .

One of the magnets had once again decided to look for a better home .

I've tried a few different glues >Gorilla glue ; super glue ; an off brand super type glue , and I'm currently 'testing' a super glue contact adhesive for metals and such .

Hopefully this will be the last time . The previous glues all were a hard , almost brittle type of full cure . This contact adhesive is suppose to remain 'flexible' . Maybe that flex will be enough cushion and hold .

Pete .

[Ricks]

Pete, do all the magnets have good magnetism?  I have a phelon flywheel on my shelf that had one of the magnets brazed back on and is weak. According to Wayne, you only need 2 magnets to run, the other 2 help power up the lights.

[pd]

Rick ,

From what I recall , all the magnets seem to have pretty much the same 'pull' .

I've thought about the need for opposing magnets and the only real explanation I came up with was Balance .

All the modern small motors like Briggs or Tecumseh have only one magnet in the flywheel .

I'm sure the added magnets would help the lighting system , doubling the 'juice' . And , I wonder if the extra magnets are the cause for the  Nova ll not seeming to work .

I'll check the amount of magnetism on each magnet in the morning .

Pete .

[pd]

According to my extremely scientific measurement method of holding a wrench close to each magnet , they all seem to have very close to the same magnetism .

The new contact adhesive I used on the wandering magnet was holding firmly as I re-installed the flywheel . Time will tell if it's any better than what I've tried before .

Pete .

[carryall]

Next time try using various or mulltiple pieces of cardboard between the magnet and a ball bearing to check. 

[pd]

Maybe I should just get a gaussmeter .

Or maybe a magnetometer .

Or cardboard and little steel balls .

Pete .

[carryall]

The magnetometer is the best choice BUT everyone likes playing with ball bearings and magnets right?  My refrigerator doors full of them, and grandkids artwork.  LOL  (I even have some really strong "magnetic ball bearings" you need to roll to the edge just to get them off) 

[pd]

Neo balls ?

Pete .

[pd]

The '57 is neatly tied down to the trailer .

We've stuffed a couple hundred miles under our tires . Enough for one day . I'm typing this in a COE park in Southern Illinois .

We were a bit surprised and lucky . This park is now full . We were the last 'campers' . 108 sites and we were lucky enough to take the last one . It even has a decent view of a treed , open grassy area across the drive . We'll only be here a couple days before visiting another campground we like , just an hour and a half South .

Pete .

[pd]

This past Summer , while working on the '57 , I was fouling spark plugs .

I'd been using the NGK B4H plugs . Good plugs , but I just ran them through too many foulings .
Anyway , I needed plugs and I didn't want to wait for a delivery . I researched and found that Autolite has a plug of the same build and heat range . They are Autolite AP 425 . I called around and no one had any in stock . Orielly's could and did have them the next morning for me .
I've been running them about half the Summer with good results . They clean nicely after a fouling using brake cleaner .

While I'm on spark plugs , I'll note that protruded tip plugs do not work well . They rest too deep and get closed by the piston dome . I had to try and that's what I found .

Has anyone else found plugs that work well in our motors ? If so , please post the particulars .

Pete .

[Ricks]

Hi Pete, remember this thread?

http://www.simplexservi-cycle.com/index.php?topic=751.0

I am building a new bike and have a set of NGK B4H that are going in.  That is the last set I have in stock, so I am going to order some more, and some Autolite 295 to compare. One of our members claimed the Autolite 295 is the updated number for the plug that came stock on the model M motors.  The blue bike I sold over the summer had the same Champion J8c in it for at least the last 3 years, and as you saw in Portland, usually started in 1 or 2 kicks.

[pd]

Rick ,

Of course I remember that thread , now that you were so kind as to 'remind' me of it .
Seriously , I had forgotten and didn't even do a search . My , um , excuse is that it was late and my mind must have been starting to shut down for the night .

 I've been doing a bit more research and have found that the Autolite AP425 is actually a couple steps cooler than the NGK B4H . Even so , they seem to perform nicely and fouling is no more than the B4H .

I also found a cross reference site that seems comprehensive : http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/

I'm jealous , Rick . 2 kicks .

Pete .

[pd]

Hi Pete, remember this thread?

http://www.simplexservi-cycle.com/index.php?topic=751.0

I am building a new bike and have a set of NGK B4H that are going in.  That is the last set I have in stock, so I am going to order some more, and some Autolite 295 to compare. One of our members claimed the Autolite 295 is the updated number for the plug that came stock on the model M motors.  The blue bike I sold over the summer had the same Champion J8c in it for at least the last 3 years, and as you saw in Portland, usually started in 1 or 2 kicks.

Seems I've been running a 1/2" reach B4H & Autolite 425 when I should have been using a 3/8" reach plug ( Autolite 295 ) , according to rldebuse ( http://www.simplexservi-cycle.com/index.php?topic=751.0 ) .

Rick ,

The J8C plug is also a 3/8" reach .
The NGK B4 ( no H ) is also a 3/8" reach .

Pete .

[pd]

I've been wondering if the missing fins could be causing an over heating problem .



I'm thinking that maybe a reworked CPU heat sink might help cool things down .
I'd need to use longer reach plugs to accommodate the thickness of the sink base plate .
The plugs would hold the sink in place .

Here's a quick drawing to help visualize :


What do you guys think ? Am I dreaming or am I totally off my rocker ?

Pete .

[Ricks]

I would make some aluminum fins and Tig weld them on.