Sonrisers 55'

[pd]

James ,

You might try a float setting of 1 15/32" .

Pete .

[Sonrisers]

Called Wayne today, told what it has been doing. He said that it sounded like I need to turn the needle adjustment screw out, I did, and it started revving up. Thought I had it fixed, so I put the trans and rear fender back on, took it off the bench, started it and it is now doing the same thing. It will start to take off, but then dies. After further inspection I noticed that the Needle screw was loose and dripping gas, I screwed it out another half turn and it fell out...this can't be good. I have seen on here that some have bought a new repop carb from Carpenters. Checked out the web site, and I can get a new one for $100. I also see that they have rebuild kits. Will the rebuild kits work in the carb I have now? I also see that Rick said he modified his by drilling more hole in the throttle shaft. I was hoping that if I bought a new carb, I could just bolt it on and go. Let me know what you guys think...I am wanting to ride this thing so bad. Thanks, James.

[pd]

Not the throttle shaft , James .
The holes get drilled in the metering tube to closer match the OEM setup .
It's a very easy process and there are pics so you won't be totally blind .

The longer you have to wait to ride , the bigger the smile on your face when that happens . My smile started as a smile and ended with a laugh and YAHOO !! But then , I only waited about 48 years .

Pete .

[Sonrisers]

Took the carb off today and cleaned everything, put it back together, started it up rode it half a block and it started doing the same thing, will idle but don't throttle up enough to pull itself and then dies. I noticed when I put it up, after it sits leaned on the kickstand, there is gas puddled under the bike. I think it is coming from the compression cover, if that is the case, wouldn't it be getting too much Gas???

[Sonrisers]

I am using a brake line for the gas line, and it is pretty small, is there a chance It is not getting enough gas when it needs it? Adjusted the float like PD said above, didn't notice and obstructions in any of the carb parts, but it did run a lot better right after I put it back together. Also, the guy I had work on the motor soldered both plug wires to the single output coil, could this cause any problems? I don't see why it would be a problem...just throwing out things to see if any one has suggestions. At least I was able to ride it, even if it was only a short distance.

[Mike Sal]

While your getting these bikes tweaked out, it's a handy thing to keep a screw driver in your hlp pocket so you can loosen the screws on the compression plate & let the excess fuel drain out. 

Don't be afraid to lower the float level in the carb.  It's easy for these things to run too rich.  I wonder if your just getting too much gas.  BTW, I'm also using brake line for my fuel line. 

Sometimes the double coil can go bad but having the plug wires together shouldn't hurt anything (I wonder if your mechanic really understood how the Simplex coils work?). 
Mike Sal

[Ricks]

If you are running the single output coil, just run one plug wire to the coil.  Then other just becomes a dummy for looks. This will send all of the coil output to the one plug and will make it fire stronger.

[Sonrisers]

Went for a ride tonight! Only about 2 blocks, but it gave me a big smile, just like PD said it would. Don't seem to have much power, I would guess I was only goin about 15 mph. Still some tweaking to do, but I think I'll keep it. LOL. And just a little nugget...never ride with the fender on and the luggage rack off, especially with new paint. I have a quarter sized gouge from bottoming out against the fender. I'm thinking a black racing stripe will cover it nicely. BTW, I removed one of the plug wires from the single output coil, and it runs a lot better. Thanks Rick.

[Sonrisers]

How is the best way to route the wires to the head light and tail light? I see a hole in the upper rear tube, but then where do you go from there? Do the wires just follow one of the fender braces, if so, how do you attach to it?? Zip ties would always do the trick...but I think that wouldn't look so good. Any suggestions?

[Mike Sal]

The tail lite wires run down thru the right rear upper bar, going thru the drilled hole near the seat spring & out thru the hole in the cork plug at the bottom of the bar.  From there they run along the inside of the lower fender brace. 
Those 2 holes in the brace used to have metal clips that held the wires.  If your clips are gone, I've seen a lot of people use zip ties.....dunno if Wayne has the clips or not.....  If you don't know what they look like, I can try to take a picture of one so you can search thru the McMaster Carr catalog or hardwar store.

The headlight wire goes up thru the hole in the fuel tank brace, out the front & then up to the switch (if your switch is on the anchor plate). 
Mike Sal

[Sonrisers]

Thanks Mike, I didn't realize that is what the holes in the fender brace were for, and I have never seen the clips. I bet I can rig something up.

[pd]

I just use a couple small zip ties . Works fine and they are hardly noticeable .

Pete .

[Sonrisers]

That's kinda what I've been thinking Pd.

[Sonrisers]

Is there a process for adjusting the rear wheel and aligning the rear belt with the pulley? While riding, the belt wants to ride on the edge of the rear sheave and then slip off. When looking at it from behind, you can see that it is out of line. Do I need any kind of spacers behind the sheave where it bolts to the spokes? The sheave came off of an older model 1" wheel. I read somewhere b4 that the 2" wheel needs spacers behind the sheave, but don't know how thick?? If so is there a part you can get from Wayne of something that can be made like using washers?

[pd]

According to the M manual the OEM part # is 5809 for those spacers .

I'm not sure if Wayne has them or not .

Pete .