WICO COIL

[SIMPLEXUSA]

Can anyone connect the dots? I need to wire up my bike. any of the diagrams I find on the site are tough to read. what is the copper tab coming off the points? where does it go? take a look a the pics. any help would be great.  thanks

[SIMPLEXUSA]

more pics

[pd]

This isn't extremely clear , but it might help :

[Mike Sal]

If you take the flywheel off an old lawnmower motor you'll see a very similar set up.  When the magnets pass by the coil, a magnetic field is set up & the "scooped up" electrons have a path to ground thru the points, buffered by the condensor.  When the points open, the path is broken & the magnectic field collapes across the primary windings in the coil which creates a spike charge in the secondary widing in the coil which are connected to the plug wires.  That copper tab is the link to the coil, condensor, and ground.
Mike Sal

[SIMPLEXUSA]

PD THE THANKS FOR DIAGRAM.  IT MAY HELP.  MIKE SAL THANKS FOR THE INFO. STILL NOT CLEAR ON COIL WIRING?   YOU SAY THAT STRAP GOES TO THE CONDENSOR TIP? HOW DO THE COILS WIRE UP?  HOW DOES IGNITION AND LIGHTS WIRE UP?

[oil-lamp]

There was a good photo of a wico coil plate on ebay awhile back #300934893606 it has some good photos to look at.

[Mike Sal]

The light coil will have 2 wires.  One wire is grounded and the other is connected to the wire that goes out of the magneto for what ever function that particular coil is intended for (head light & tail light).  I've not worked on a Wico, so one of the other guys will have to comment on how the wire connects to the rest of the harness going to the lights. (phelon's have 3 separate coils for the lights).

The ignition coil is about the same, but the one wire goes to the points.  Think of the points as the "switch" that lets the normal flow of electricity get to ground except when it's time for a spark.  When the points open, the interuption in that flow causes the magnetic field to collapse.

Think of the coils being a long wire that's grounded at each end.  One one end of the wire there is a switch and a resistor (the light switch and the bulb filament), or just a switch (the points).
Mike Sal

[pd]

Maybe Rick can grab these pics and 'thumbnail' them for the site

Here you go Pete.  Rick

[oil-lamp]

Those are some good reference photos very clear. 

[pd]

Those are some good reference photos very clear. 

That's exactly what I thought .

Thanks , Rick .

Pete .

[LARRYBROWN]

Hi there,  copper strap is for another application ,and connects to the condenser screw that is not grounded . one of the primary ( skinny ) wires of the coil connect there also , along with the " kill " wire ( wire that is to be grounded to stop engine.)    other coil primary  (skinny ) wire goes to ground . does not matter which one as it is an a.c. magneto     word of advice , please do yourself a favor and keep spark plug gaps to a minimum ,,,( suggest  .015      making the spark jump long gaps taxes the integrity of the insulation of the magneto coil and these things are hard to find .  keep both plug wires hooked up at all times while the motor is turning , as there is no + or - to the system , ( A. C. magneto )  original servicycle points had wire to condenser . Patience pays off with these things ,         all the best    Larry.

[SIMPLEXUSA]

i still have questions.  if the "spark coil" skinny wire goes to the center screw of condenser , where does the other wire from coil go? also are you saying that the condenser will have a connection to that strap? further do I run i wire from my ignition (1 side to ground, the other to the condenser also? ) meaning on the condenser center screw it will include the strap,small coil wire, and ignition ground wire? now that being said what is the situation with the lighting coil? how is it wired?
thanks

[pd]

I think this diagram is correct . If anything is not right , Please let me know and I'll correct it .
I know the manual does 'some' directing for wiring , but a diagram seems to make it easy for me .

[bohica2xo]

Nice pics.

Looking at that set of points, all I can think of is how well an electronic replacement would fit there.

I have worked on countless small engines over the decades, and replacing the points & condenser with a tiny electronic module like the Nova II has been the single best improvement you can make.  I have done chainsaws, outboards, 4 strokes, 2 strokes - any single cylinder magneto style ignition.

Engines that sit for months between starts with the points behind the flywheel get a reputation for being hard to start. A thin film of oil or oxide on the points, and it may take 20 pulls to smack the points together enough to get a decent spark.  Since the points are hard to get at, they rarely get checked either.

Electronic "points" operate faster, and can't get wet or dirty. 

Just my 2 cents as a new guy here. 

.

[Ricks]

Nice pics.

Looking at that set of points, all I can think of is how well an electronic replacement would fit there.

I have worked on countless small engines over the decades, and replacing the points & condenser with a tiny electronic module like the Nova II has been the single best improvement you can make.  I have done chainsaws, outboards, 4 strokes, 2 strokes - any single cylinder magneto style ignition.

Engines that sit for months between starts with the points behind the flywheel get a reputation for being hard to start. A thin film of oil or oxide on the points, and it may take 20 pulls to smack the points together enough to get a decent spark.  Since the points are hard to get at, they rarely get checked either.

Electronic "points" operate faster, and can't get wet or dirty. 

Just my 2 cents as a new guy here. 

.

Sounds like you need to put together a little kit!!