General Category => Simplexes with Non-Original Engines => Topic started by: illMATTic on April 23, 2013, 08:05:08 PM
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Ok here is my official build thread. I have 80% of the parts now so I figured it was time. I plan to mock everything up, build it, and make it ride-able before I get into paint.
Here are a few pics as of tonight. I have a roller (kinda) with an engine in it. More details to follow. ;D
Pics are big. You should all have a wide monitor by now. ;)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130423_222656_zps3b81076e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130423_222656_zps3b81076e.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130423_222517_zps992a229d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130423_222517_zps992a229d.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130423_222505_zps17c40cd7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130423_222505_zps17c40cd7.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130423_222933_zpscb872126.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130423_222933_zpscb872126.jpg.html)
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Looking good! Why did you go with a whizzer sheave and not the simplex part? Are you looking for higher gearing? Does the brake rod clear the motor when the flywheel is on?
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Looking good! Why did you go with a whizzer sheave and not the simplex part? Are you looking for higher gearing? Does the brake rod clear the motor when the flywheel is on?
I am working with what I have. The sheave came with the bike. I do not have the stock brake rod. It looks like the PO planned on running a cable and has modified some things.
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I used a Worksman rim in the front with a drum brake. I upgraded the 3/8 axle to a 12mm axle with sealed bearings. There are various moped sites that offer these items. I then had to figure out how to mount the axle in the front fork levers. The levers had a 14mm hole in them. I was digging through some of the parts drawers here at work and came up with these small bushings. They were very close in size. I only had to take off .5 mm to get them to press in.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130304_134006_zps99000733.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130304_134006_zps99000733.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130423_120233_zps1f64f086.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130423_120233_zps1f64f086.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130423_203954_zpsc0a9eb28.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130423_203954_zpsc0a9eb28.jpg.html)
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Seems you're getting a pretty good handle on it , Matt .
I like that front hub .
Looks like you'll need a belt tensioner if you use what's there now and leave them as they are set . That should be a fairly easy thing to come up with . Just dig through those parts draws a bit more ... ;)
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I think I will add a tensioner and a longer belt. It will give me room to adjust the wheel properly as well as find the best drive pulley.
I work at a John Deere dealership so all the belts and such are on hand.
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I'd bet there's everything you need for that tensioner mod right at your finger tips .
Probably want to paint it black though , unless you plan on John Deere Green for you bike . :D
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During the holidays the local paper will print "letters to Santa" that the young kids write at school. A neighbor kid who lives down the road wrote ".....and I want some toy tractors, NO green." (his family uses International Harvestor equipment). I thought to myself that if a city person read that letter they would have no clue what the kid meant.
Mike Sal
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I plan on trying my hand at covering the seat pan. I picked up this 6oz hide on ebay. I also have some dye (saddle tan), finish, and thread to sew it up. There is enough to do two seats here. I have about $100 into it all.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130425_212049_resized_zps7b40cdde.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130425_212049_resized_zps7b40cdde.jpg.html)
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I plan on trying my hand at covering the seat pan. I picked up this 6oz hide on ebay. I also have some dye (saddle tan), finish, and thread to sew it up. There is enough to do two seats here. I have about $100 into it all.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130425_212049_resized_zps7b40cdde.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130425_212049_resized_zps7b40cdde.jpg.html)
Are you going to rivet it on like a stock seat?
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Thats the plan. ;)
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After seeing that Simplex speedo on ebay I decided to find one for mine. It's a non original unit. I picked this one up for a song. It is in premo shape.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130430_090438_resized_zpsec68db1c.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130430_091132_resized_zps2812e016.jpg)
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That's sweet! Did Stewart Warner build the originals for Simplex?
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I am not sure on that. The Simplex speedo on Ebay was a bit toasty. It went to $96 without meeting the reserve. It looks similar to this one as far as shape.
I hope I have enough cable here to fit. If not, I can run it on one of my old bicycles.
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Slightly different problems with my slanted cylinder 212cc Honda clone because of clearance issues so I decided to try to find a chain/drum rear wheel.
Like the drum front wheel idea though. What part number did you order for the Worksman wheels? I thought about the 77A for the front and 77AR for the rear but no real info is available for them.
Thanks
Tom
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Slightly different problems with my slanted cylinder 212cc Honda clone because of clearance issues so I decided to try to find a chain/drum rear wheel.
Like the drum front wheel idea though. What part number did you order for the Worksman wheels? I thought about the 77A for the front and 77AR for the rear but no real info is available for them.
Thanks
Tom
I just used an old used drum I picked up from a guy.
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I picked up this iron flywheel. I didn't want to shave the aluminum fins and have it explode on me. It is way heavier but it should idle nice.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130425_221803_resized_zps0204ad8e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130425_221803_resized_zps0204ad8e.jpg.html)
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Where'd you get that flywheel? What was the original application?
Mike Sal
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Its a stock Honda part. It came on some of the GC190's. I think they were on either the water pumps or the pressure washer engines. I found this gem on eBay for 7 bucks.
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Hey
Is that a Comet Clutch? I am wanting to do the same thing, however I don't know how to mount the clutch, i.e. what size engine shaft etc.
Reggie
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Reggie, It is a Tav 2 30 series. Most engines you would use will have a 3/4" crank. Make sure it is around 2" long.
The CVT has numerous mounting holes for just about any engine. Buy one of these driver inserts to take up some gap on the crank.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Torque-Converter-Driver-20-30-Series-Cover-Guard-Insert-3-4-Aftermarket-Part-/400276987993?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item5d325e2059&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Torque-Converter-Driver-20-30-Series-Cover-Guard-Insert-3-4-Aftermarket-Part-/400276987993?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item5d325e2059&vxp=mtr)
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Not much to update you guys on. It's boating season here so EVERYTHING else fall by the wayside.
I do have the engine running and wheels spinning on the stand.
I can not use the Whizzer sheave with the stock 2" rear rim. The belt hits the tire. No matter how I adjust it. I was debating on going to the stock sheave or going with a chain drive. The only issue with the chain drive is the stock rear hub is smaller in diameter than all of the bicycle hubs. I am having trouble finding a bolt on type sprocket that will work.
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Have you thought about any size sprocket you want and using a couple half circle 'collars' inside the spokes to bolt through ? You may have to space the sprocket outward , but ...
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That is how many of the motorized bicycle sprockets mount. None of them are the correct size for the simplex hub and I don't have the machining capabilities to build my own.
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Possibly , you could make the collars out of hardwood or plastic and paint them . They don't have to withstand a lot of pressure , as the pressure is spread around the complete circle . Just a thought .
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Well I took it around the block a couple times yesterday. I need to get a few things worked out. The throttle linkage is a little cramped and the brakes are a bit weak. But here it is so far. There has not been much in the way of improvements from the beginning of summer.
Getting the kick start together would be nice. I am having issues with keeping the idle where it needs to be.(cramped linkage) I had to walk back home a couple times when it stalled around the corner.
Looks like I should be able to use the Whizzer sheave. I was worried about the belt hitting the tire. After a couple miles last night I see no evidence that it was rubbing.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130804_193243_zps0da9987f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130804_193243_zps0da9987f.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130804_184804_zps30884390.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130804_184804_zps30884390.jpg.html)
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Here are some of the parts I plan on using to build a kick starter. These are steering parts from an older lawn tractor.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130510_073615_resized_zps03039c35.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20130510_073615_resized_zps03039c35.jpg.html)
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Might just work .
Pete . :)
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The contact surface does not look very wide. Might just chew up the teeth. Jim L used part of a chevy flexplate and starter gear to accomplish the same thing on an old briggs motor.
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The contact surface does not look very wide. Might just chew up the teeth. Jim L used part of a chevy flexplate and starter gear to accomplish the same thing on an old briggs motor.
It is a bit thinner than a stock unit. However, they are designded to last 10 years or more cutting every week on the mower. And it was free. ;D
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The contact surface does not look very wide. Might just chew up the teeth. Jim L used part of a chevy flexplate and starter gear to accomplish the same thing on an old briggs motor.
It is a bit thinner than a stock unit. However, they are designded to last 10 years or more cutting every week on the mower. And it was free. ;D
Not much pressure on a steering gear vs a kick starter. I have never seen a good stock simplex pinion gear!
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I am not sure on that. The Simplex speedo on Ebay was a bit toasty. It went to $96 without meeting the reserve. It looks similar to this one as far as shape.
I hope I have enough cable here to fit. If not, I can run it on one of my old bicycles.
What is your top end speed with the GC190 engine? I plan on using this engine on my bike with Wayne's motor mount/jackshaft set up.
Dave
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Hi Dave. Bill Miller has a GC190 and told me he has gone better than 50mph on it. I told him that is too fast for simplex brakes! LOl
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That is quick. I will need a rim with a front brake if I can find one for sale.
I spoke with Wayne today and he said his set up is only for GX200 engines. He said he plans on making a mount/jack shaft set up in the future for the GC engines.
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I have not had it out since the first run. I will have some time to play around with it now that boating season is just about done.
I didn't wind it up all the way. I was no were close to 50 though.
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Well I was able to get the exhaust finished. I fished a couple old exhaust parts out of the scrap bin at work. I cut and welded them to get the shape I wanted coming out of the engine. I then ran some of that stainless flex tubing for the rest of the way to the muffler. Then some pipe wrap to hide it all.
Next I must get rid of those damn feet. ::)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130927_175216_zps856179f5.jpg)(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130927_175308_zpsf9c984cd.jpg)(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20130927_175413_zps48b6c38e.jpg)
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"Next I must get rid of those damn feet. "
Maybe if you covered them with some long furry material you like them better ? :D
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Well I decided to go ahead and start on the saddle yesterday. I wasn't sure how it would turn out since it was my first time doing any sort of leather work. I am pretty happy with the result.
First I traced out the seat pan and cut the patterns. I didn't want to rivet the bottom so I went with a full skin on both sides. I clamped them face to face and ran my marking tool all around the perimeter. This gave me the correct spacing for the stitches. Then I just hammered out each one.
I used saddle tan for the dye. Notice it looks splotchy. I think this is due to some oils and residue on the surface. I found out I should clean the leather before dyeing. I think it will look good once it has some time on it.
I stitched up half of the cover and then slid the pan into it. I had to wet the inside a bit to help mold itself to the pan. You can see on the bottom I hrelieveeleave the leather a bit. Since I made the top and bottom the same size it became very tight when trying to get it stitched all the way. It took me about 3.5 hours to get it all stitched and formed. No breaks. ;)
I used a standard saddle stich. I am sure years of practice will help tidy up the stitches.
Once it is completely dry I will apply a sealer to the leather. The sealer also gives it a more even look.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131006_165105_zps838e7cf8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131006_165105_zps838e7cf8.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131006_172233_zps781233ab.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131006_172233_zps781233ab.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131006_205854_zps246b86b2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131006_205854_zps246b86b2.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131007_073329_zps06a186aa.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131007_073329_zps06a186aa.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131007_073236_zps5f0c3384.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131007_073236_zps5f0c3384.jpg.html)
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First time ? Not bad at all . :)
And , how many can say " I did the seat myself " ?
Pete . :)
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Thanks. I still need to trim the edges and polish it. I was on the home stretch last night and wanted to just get it stitched up. I was on it for 3.5 hours. I finished up after midnight. :o
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BTDT . I've been known to work a project 'til done . Done being the wee hours of the morning . I've found myself amazed that the sun was coming up 'already' . ;)
But it's a good feeling to have the project done .
Pete . :)
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That's a great job! Way to stay at it.
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The leather turned out pretty crispy after I wet it and dyed it. So I called Fiebings and they told me to use this or 100% Neatsfoot oil. This was half the price. After a couple rubdowns with this it should be ready for the sealer. You guys may try this on your old saddles.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131008_144359_zps0c17ed27.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131008_144359_zps0c17ed27.jpg.html)
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Hmm , what's the oil compounded with?
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It says other natural oils on the website.
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Not that it makes a big difference , but I wonder what , if any , advantage one would have over the other ?
Maybe just the cost , like you noted .
Anyway , it'll be interesting to see how it turns out . :)
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Keep the feet , I think they are cool. Bill Marcum 8)
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Keep the feet , I think they are cool. Bill Marcum 8)
Too late. I chopped off the toes last night. I have the original foot rests to replace them.
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Seat looks great! How much money do you have in it? Was it alot cheaper than having it done? Can't wait to see the finished product.
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I probably have 100 bucks in it and still have enough product to do another seat.
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"and still have enough product to do another seat."
I like how you think ahead , Matt . Have you spotted your next Simplex yet ? ;)
Pete . :)
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Here are a few photos. It turned out way darker than it started. I think some of the oil must have leached something out of the front bolt. I had the hardware in to keep it up off the table.
You can not see in the photos but the finish is all streaked looking. The "Tan Kote" sealer I used left it that way. I should have rubbed it down more before it cured.
Here it is.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131010_180621-1_zpsf2fe3629.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131010_180621-1_zpsf2fe3629.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131010_180709_zps2bd119c2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131010_180709_zps2bd119c2.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131010_180502-1_zps749c390e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131010_180502-1_zps749c390e.jpg.html)
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It still looks darn good for a first time , Matt .
So , you're sticking to the bolt leaching story ? ;D ;)
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Look ma... no feet! I found some ribbed rubber runner at Home Depot. It was $2.50/ft.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131011_183628_zpsf6372981.jpg)
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That'll work .
And , I see you're not using the spring on the kick stand bolt . How does the stand stay in retracted position ?
Pete . :)
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That'll work .
And , I see you're not using the spring on the kick stand bolt . How does the stand stay in retracted position ?
Pete . :)
I just have it tightened to the point it will stay up but still move.
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Yeah , I figured .
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do these honda's have a charging stator?
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do these honda's have a charging stator?
No, but one of the guys on here had on added on by a friend that owns a mower shop. Unfortunately, the mower shop owner never got back to anyone with the part info to do the conversion.
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Ahh. OK.....I'll try to find out
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I am 99% sure a flywheel and coils from a GX160/200 will work on these. I may pull the trigger on the parts today.
Stay tuned. :P
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let us know on that....its one of the reasons im not crazy about my HF212cc build...no altenator.
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let us know on that....its one of the reasons im not crazy about my HF212cc build...no altenator.
Plenty of GX clones available with lighting coils and electric start.
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Yes but the GC is a straight up engine with overhead cam and comes in smaller sizes under 200cc...be nice to have one with alternator
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Yes but the GC is a straight up engine with overhead cam and comes in smaller sizes under 200cc...be nice to have one with alternator
I am well aware of that. I was addressing your complaint that you didn't have a lighting coil on your HF212.
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Oh OK...that's true too.. We'll see what he comes up with
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Oh OK...that's true too.. We'll see what he comes up with
Yeah, hopefully the GX and GC flywheels and coils are interchangable, that would be sweet. Another possibility for electricity would be a small belt driven generator. I wonder if some early motorcycles had them?
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Maybe something like this would be workable :
http://tinyurl.com/kmswq5v
Pete . :)
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I was also thinking about one of these alternators from a Kubota tractor. These are real small.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Permanent-Magnet-ALTERNATOR-for-KUBOTA-15531-64017-/360507813546 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Permanent-Magnet-ALTERNATOR-for-KUBOTA-15531-64017-/360507813546)
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The 1948 Mustang had one, Gramps
(http://usscootermuseum.com/must_025)
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OK Gramps, that's the ticket! Now, are they available?
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I have the POWER!
Today I got the GX flywheel and coils in the mail. They fit and produce power. I am just running the coils directly to the lamps.
I purchased a flywheel and 2 lighting coils on ebay that are listed as fitting a GX160/200. I paid like $42 I think. The flywheel came with a starter ring attached. I had to remove it in order to clear the ign. coil. I then tapped the existing holes with a 6mmx1.00 tap and installed 6mmx30mm bolts.
These are listed as 3 amp coils. It looks to be juuuust enough to light two lamps.
Have a look at the initial install pics. I still need to button it all up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131026_122550_zps4153d19e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131026_122550_zps4153d19e.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131026_133645_zps6a3be4e9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131026_133645_zps6a3be4e9.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131026_144017_zps5980f558.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131026_144017_zps5980f558.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131026_143954_zps4ecdf571.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131026_143954_zps4ecdf571.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131026_144450_zpsd7033129.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131026_144450_zpsd7033129.jpg.html)
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Awesome info, thanks! This is going to be one of my future projects, as I already have a frame, front end, wheels, and gas tank just sitting around!
Does the balance of the flywheel appear to be the same as the GC flywheel? Can you feel any difference when running?
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Awesome info, thanks! This is going to be one of my future projects, as I already have a frame, front end, wheels, and gas tank just sitting around!
Does the balance of the flywheel appear to be the same as the GC flywheel? Can you feel any difference when running?
I have not had a chance to run it on the road yet. The GC was rough to begin with so I can't see how it could be any worse.
It looks like they did at least attempt to balance the flywheel. It has been drilled in various locations.
I'll try and run it on Sunday if it's dry.
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It seems to me all these Honda''s and clones vibrate quite a bit. They get much better if you tie the cylinder head to the frame with an upper mount.
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My HF 212 is smoother then my whizzer...its all stock with a tav.
I like the coil and parts for the GC Honda......I did find that if you get parts from a Baja mini bike from tractor supply.....those ( 196cc?) Which I think is a HF 212 basically... Has a alternator too. The engine and parts they don't sell separate but the bikes are all over craigslist cheap.
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You are the first person I have ever heard say that these motors are smooth. SportsCarPat, of the Sportsman Bonneville Racer fame, has spent a lot of time working on engine mount designs and anti vibration methods to keep these motors from tearing up frames. I used a top cylinder mount on mine, and that helped a lot, but still vibrated in the footpads. Did you do anything to the motor to smooth it out?
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In defense of the engines.....ever seen one on the generators shake? Or the other powered uses?
I think the clutches used may be causing some if the probs... Then they start throwing billet parts at one assuming they're the right weight and balance.....just a thought.
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In defense of the engines.....ever seen one on the generators shake? Or the other powered uses?
I think the clutches used may be causing some if the probs... Then they start throwing billet parts at one assuming they're the right weight and balance.....just a thought.
I wasn't ragging on the engines, just the fact they are not smooth runners. You proved my point, they vibrate like crazy on generators! I have a GC190 on a pressure washer, and that runs smoother than the GX engines I have encountered. I also have a GX390 on a generator, and that is definitely a thumper, but of course, a much bigger engine at 13hp.
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My gen is 212 sized....its quiet and smooth....I know though people complain that these engines are lumpy. I think they add to it and ignore they worsened it because they don't wanna feel cheated on going parts.
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I got the bike out today and ran it up to 35 mph. I could not tell any difference in vibration with this flywheel. I went for a 3-4 mile ride. I didn't want to push it too much. I do not have anything loctite'd up. :o
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How much throttle left when going 35mph? I plan on going with a GC190 also. The only concern I have is the internal timing belt that makes contact with the engine oil. Wonder how long it will last?
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I was probably at half throttle. I have the trans set to shift at lower rpm.
I was thinking about picking up one of those lcd tachs just to see where I was at.
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I picked up a few parts. I found these pretty sweet nut covers on ebay. They were a buck each. They fit right over top of a 3/4" nut. I plan on using these for the axle nuts.
I also picked this NOS air cleaner up. I liked the look of the remote unit Simplex used. This was a very cheap alternative.
I also have a set of mud flaps and small decals from ebay.
I would like to try to get it all together this weekend. We shall see though. The yard is full of leaves. :'(
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131101_184317_zpsc4cb42c1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131101_184317_zpsc4cb42c1.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131101_184337_zpsdb24ebaf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131101_184337_zpsdb24ebaf.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131101_184349_zps1a365b74.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131101_184349_zps1a365b74.jpg.html)
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What is that aircleaner from?
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lets see that bike!
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What is that aircleaner from?
It was listed as fitting a clinton. I think the guy has more.
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I got this baby moon in the mail today. It looks a bit big but fits perfectly over the recoil cover.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131107_201126_zps746e20ad.jpg)
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Good use for a moon!
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Gettin' kinda glitzy there , Matt . :D
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Gettin' kinda glitzy there , Matt . :D
Ha ha ya. I am sure the chrome will end up being dulled down a bit.
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But , you have to have something to set the nut covers off . :D
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I got it out today for a short ride. It is in the 50's today. My seat lightened up quite a bit. I like it now. I am waiting on some jam nuts for the front axle. Then I can put on the front fender. I have just about everything I need to make it complete. I just have to find the time to set aside. ::)
I think I want to tear it all down in the spring and paint everything an antique black. The bonehead I bought it from blasted everything. However, he sprayed right over the bare metal with spray on bedliner. :o
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131116_134945_zps614bc555.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131116_134945_zps614bc555.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131116_134934_zpsf69647dd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131116_134934_zpsf69647dd.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131116_134827-1_zps6fe91fba.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131116_134827-1_zps6fe91fba.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131116_134756-1_zpsab3e38f7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/boombip/media/Simplex%20Forum/20131116_134756-1_zpsab3e38f7.jpg.html)
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Looking good Matt! Two questions,
1st, did you know they make a larger charging coil, that has 3 coils on it and is rated 88 watts versus the 50 watt coil you have? Do you think this would be an improvement over the one you got, is do you think the 50 watt is enough?
2nd, did you chose the whizzer drive sheave to raise the gearing or did you use the whizzer because you did not have a simple sheave?
Thanks,
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Gettin' there Matt . ;)
I want your horn .
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Looking good Matt! Two questions,
1st, did you know they make a larger charging coil, that has 3 coils on it and is rated 88 watts versus the 50 watt coil you have? Do you think this would be an improvement over the one you got, is do you think the 50 watt is enough?
2nd, did you chose the whizzer drive sheave to raise the gearing or did you use the whizzer because you did not have a simple sheave?
Thanks,
Rick, I picked these coils up on the cheap on ebay. The larger Honda coil is pretty spendy. I think the higher wattage would be nice though if you really wanted to ride at night.
As for the sheave... it came with the bike. The Simplex units are more than I want to spend.
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Thanks Matt!
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That appears to be a baby moon hubcap for a mag cover. If so, How did you attach it?
Mike Sal
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Mike ,
Here's better pic . You can see the 'pillars' .
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v164/boombip/Simplex%20Forum/20131107_201126_zps746e20ad.jpg)
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That appears to be a baby moon hubcap for a mag cover. If so, How did you attach it?
Mike Sal
Mike, that is exactly what it is. It was another ebay score on the cheap. It just happens to fit perfectly over the stock recoil. In the photo it is just snuggly placed over the recoil. I may try to hustle up some this stainless sheet to cover the rest of the flywheel.
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if you shop around you can also try finding a stainless or alum soup pot the right size and polish it up..ive seen pots used to good effect on things before.
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IDK ... Good soup pots are hard to come by . And , good soup is even harder . ;)
I've thought about making a cover , but buying is a lot easier .
Pete . :)
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I think the pot idea will work best if I can find the right size. I was originally thinking about that for the whole cover but it would always look like a pot.
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I have to admit , the pot idea occurred to me as well . I think that if a guy could find the right sized salad bowl , preferably in stainless steel ...
Pete . :)
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I think an aluminum cake pan could work well. Probably could find one around 10 inches in diameter and 2 inches deep.
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I don't recall just what the diameter of the OEM cover is . Can some one please measure one and post it ?
I'd measure myself , but my bike is currently a little over 1100 miles away . :(
Pete . :)
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I have to admit , the pot idea occurred to me as well . I think that if a guy could find the right sized salad bowl , preferably in stainless steel ...
Pete . :)
I also eyed one of my stainless bowls. I have the right size but it has the stamped bottom. There was no way to make it look good without hammering it smooth. At that point you may as well make one.
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Lots of angry wemin' out there when the redneck engineering gets into full swing and their AllClad cookware goes missing. :)
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illMATic, Hey I've been working on the bike and making some headway. I have got the front wheel a little better centered and the break too where I hope not to need that clamp. That clamp was bending the tube that it was attached too. I've got a kick starter for it and mounted but I still need to space it out and give it a stop. I would like to put a jack shaft high to drive too but the carburetor in in the way. Also I'm still looking for a cover for the flywheel. Still in line to be done changing too Simplex throttle assy, double the seat springs, figure out what all I want to do about the lighting, then paint and chrome everything, and whatever else I find. Heres a couple of pics.
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Hey Reese, is that Wayne's kickstart kit? Does it bolt right up on the GC motor, just like the GX and clone motors?
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Yes it is Wayne's kit! Do the GX and Clone motors need such a wide gear? I am going to cut it down as soon as I find just how much I can do without. Now this frame has been modified before I got the kit so I just bolted it under the motor that was there. I guess this kit has to be wielded in on a standard mod cause its just a flat plate with a shaft wielded under it and a custom kicker. I bartered it from Wayne at Portland and finily getting some time to work with it. Rick do still have a extra headlight bucket with the hole you want to part with? ???
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Here is a Simplex flywheel cover for ya Reese!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351175928776?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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I don't know 10inches is a little large. I have a local second hand store looking for a cooking pot to use. I did however start the engine using the kick starter today. I do need to mount a stop and find a place to hook the spring to. I did however find a way to overcome old age belly on the seat spring, but I can not tell you till it has been finalized tomorrow. Thanks for showing me that cover. 8)
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Well I thought I found and fixed the reason the tire rode left of center but I was wrong. What I did helped but the main cause was a broken weld just under the spring at the finder mount bracket. It waoud be just fine then after you moved the bike flop there goes the tire. Well aren't we having fun now. ::)
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Just a Simplex way of keeping life a bit more interesting , Reese . ;)
Pete . :)
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Reese, I am glad you are able to put some time into it.
Regarding the front tire... I see you found the jam nuts I purchased. Even with those you can not keep the tire straight?
One thing you may check is where the axle bolt tightens to the fork dropout. Those bushings I put in there could be a thousandths wide and not allowing you to bite on the dropout all the way.
When you torque down the front axle be sure you are not loading the suspension. I noticed this was happening just about every time I tightened the axle. I thought that if I held the jam nut while tightening I could make it work.
Good luck.
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illMATIC, Those jam nuts were hard to find in metric but i did find them in this hic town i live in. I replaced the Springer tube with one that was not broke and im fixing the other one. I'm trying to put a jackshaft on to clean the left side up and reworking the muffler. Question how did you make that flex tubing stay on the solid pipe. Dang I cant get it off!
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how are you today? i have been keeping up with your posts on the Honda GC 190.. i am planning on building a similar bike with a 48 model. I would like for you to send me all the pictures that you can concerning the engine and CVT mount. my email is reggie.legros@yahoo.com
Thanks
Reggie
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Will do Reggie, I havn'tdone much lately except trying to mock up a cover for the flywheel. I am also trying to do my jackshaft in about the same place as the transmission rides and trying to put the muffler back up front. Basically trying too fool the experts out there. If all goes well I will be making first cuts on the copper this week.
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Reese, you mean you didn't use the jam nuts I gave you? :o
The flex tube was actually just slipped over the pipe. I didn't secure it with anything.
What was wrong with the forks? Were they broken?
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There was extra jum nuts in the boxes??? Shoot they must be rolling around in the trailer still had a box dump out om the trip home. Yes there was a weld that was broke "left side on the fender mount" on the small tube. That gave the front wheel its left of center look along with the brake bracket bending the other side forward. I finally got that flex tube off took a little effort but its off. I'm putting the muffler back up front and pipe it under and to the left. Tweaking the carb to the right 30 plus deg. I do need to ask you why is only one coil hooked up for the lighting? Here is a photo where it broke.
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Ya the nuts are in a small manila envelope labeled jam nuts.
I cant wait to see it all ready to go.
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If I can get it all out of my head and on to the bike its going to be great. The only thing in my way is skill. :(
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Ok, Here we go. I made my first cuts and fab the first part to the cover. I have some small tabs that will be welded to the outside that will hold it on. There will be only one bolt that will need to go through the cover. That's the one that holds the coil on. Picture time. The cover on the other hand may need to go to the local sheet metal shop to be cut out. ???
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Lookin good, Reese, I can finally see what you been talking about.
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Nice start Reese! Are you going to weld it or have someone else do it?
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Rick, I am going to try to do it myself. I hope!
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Reese, what Tig machine do you have?
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Rick, it's what is called a tig/torch and it goes on a stick welder to make it a cheep tig unit. It uses argon gas and you hook the pos as a ground and the ground to the torch and drop your amps down.
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Well it's getting better all the time.
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Did you decide to cut thin strips from your excess mat'l and use them for filler rod, or go with a copper/bronze rod? In a pinch, I've used the copper from Romex wire also but not sure how strong it is.
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Carryall, I am more than likely going to go the romax route seeing there's no need for strength. On the other hand the scrap will be the training media. I figure the romax will melt fairly low I hope. 8)
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It will. Lightly sanding the wire first, to remove any impurities and oxidation will help same with your parent material. Lots of "tacks" on the inside of the seams to prevent distoration. I assume your doing the outside corners only, or are you doing the inside with fillet welds?
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Outside most likely. I have it about 1/8 larger for trimming and shaping of the final product. Any other tips on this that might help me? ???
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is your TIG variable power while welding? (foot control, or thumb wheel?) If not, you can try preheating the weldment so you can use the lowest power setting without burn-thru. it will also minimize the distoration/warpage, and if you can get seams to stay touching before welding, when tacking together, you may get lucky and be able to fuse it with minimum filler rod also.
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No high dollar tig machine here, just a old miller stick w/crank adj. Pray for me. I am going to be practice on scrap to find what it can bear in heat.
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Lookin' good , Reese .
Good that you're not afraid to tackle something a little different .
Pete . :)
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Ok guys I'm still tinkering with this bike I've gog the carb moved. Now to start building the bracket for the pullies. That is if I can get all my parts for the idler pulley from Wayne. I did get some history from him that kinda shocked me. He drove for years in the N.H.R.A. link http://www.70sfunnycars.com/FunnyCars31.html and just when you think you couldn't be blind sided. Wham! And WOW! So here's a picture of the carb and manifold. Thinking on having the air cleaner and maybe the manifold chromed. What do you think?
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Careful Reese .
Once you chrome ...
Pete . :)
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If you have other stuff chrome, why not? Question, How does your air filter housing allow air in? Are there vent holes some where not seen in the pictures?
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Carryall, it can be seen just barely look at the end away from the carb. That is the vent for the intake.
Besides Pd its just a little chrome I don't think it will get me hooked on it that quick.
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How do you think 'addiction' starts ?
How many Simplex bikes did you start with ? ;)
Pete . :)
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So what I started with 3/4 of a bike and now I have 4 and 1/2. That's not addicted I can stop anytime after 6.
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(http://www.sherv.net/cm/emo/laughing/hearty-laugh.gif)
Is that a self impossed limit , Reese ? ;)
Pete . :)
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Those of you suffering from simplexia feel free to send me your bikes or parts.
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Maybe? ???
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Bruce, actually fed my addiction and picked up a couple of frames over the weekend.
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Bruce, actually fed my addiction and picked up a couple of frames over the weekend.
Post some pictures of the new stuff!
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Least you're open about your vices!
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I'm only gonna do it til I need glasses! lol
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Got my new welder in today I hope to have new photos soon. I did manage to ruff out the shape for my jackshaft bracket tonight. It may look strange but it will mount in the same holes as the transmission mounts too. I just hope there's enough room for the bearings one form or another. 8)
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Where can you find the lighting coils and steel flywheels for the GC190 engine?
I picked up a GC190 for one of my extra frames and need a third winter project.
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HG, I saw this one a few days back but I do not see one currently...ebay # 371172270587 but it has sold.
You may also check some mini bikes and go cart shops on the web. Racing go carts brings up several.
I will keep a eye out for another.
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Spoke a little soon use "flywheel gx" and hays brings up a lot like # 121166239031 but ask questions before you buy.
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Thanks for the info. I talked with BJM yesterday at their shop and got info from him too.
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Thanks for the info. I talked with BJM yesterday at their shop and got info from him too.
How about posting the info you got from BJM?
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Rick,
The info I got from BJM was more related to the mounting plate they used. They welded theirs in place and I would like to make a bolt on mount plate so a person could go back to an original motor if every desired. I've worked out a pattern and will try to get it cut out next week.
I'll post more as I work my way through the flywheel and lighting coils also.
Huston
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Ok here's what I've been working on. I still have lots to tweaking to do but two twelve hours shifts this weekend is going to make it rough.
And this list one is the change up on the braking system. 8)
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Taking shape , Reese .
Nice shiny lift , too . ;)
Pete . :)
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I've got to move the engine forward about a inch maybe?
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Things a bit too tight ?
Pete . :)
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looking good Reese.
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Yea a little tight for now and a piss pore tack but it's already scheduled for tear down and rebuild. Going to put the bearings on top and spread them apart I hope.
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Will the shaft clear the brace with the bearings on top ?
Or , will you reset the bearing mounts to the top ?
Pete . :)
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Pd, no I don't think it will clear but I will be moving them anyway one inside one outside. That will also get me to the eight and what ever inches apart to work. Then I will make some kind of attachment to keep it from moving and someplace to mount the idler pulley too.
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Ok here's the retrofit looks a little better. What do y'all think.
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Looks like it might just work , Reese .
Should the stationary plates of both clutches line up ? But , maybe you're not done with adjustments yet .
I suppose there is a little room for misalignment .
Pete . :)
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I guess they should? But hey I just got home between 12hr shifts and had a total rebuild and it's only hanging in place. Two bolts without nuts and a piece of wire to hold it up me thinks it looks great. I talked with Wayne and order some new belts so it can be lined up soon. :-\
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Heck , and here I thought that chunk of wire was a special 'country' engineering break through . ;)
I always keep bailing wire handy for exactly that kind of thing and much more .
Pete . :)
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Keep the flat inner plates to the driver and driven units perfectly square and the belt will last longer..,don't leave one further outboard or tilted
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I'd love to see what your copper cover looks like?
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Carrall, That went back to the drawing board. Thinking on making it just cover the flyheeel and let the coil stick out. Mainly that thin copper is tuff not to blow a hole in it but I am looking for number three bolting spot before building.
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I wondered if you were going to need a chill block behind it to prevent burn thru.
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Reese ,
Would your design prohibit the use of pop rivets ? Done right they could look pretty neat .
Here are some copper rivets :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Copper-Rivets-1-8-blind-pop-100-pcs-42-copper-still-making-parts-/191333576158
Pete . :)
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Pd, not a bad way to go and I like the way a riveted tank or door looked. My brick wall is getting a rounded side to bend over 90° all the way around to attach the faceplate to. There's still stanless and aluminim to play with.
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"My brick wall is getting a rounded side to bend over 90° all the way around to attach the faceplate to."
Maybe turn that idea around and have 'fingers' of the face plate slide under the curved 'shell' . Then rivet through the flat of the shell .
And , if you like rivets on the face , you can always place rivets simply for aesthetic value .
Pete . :)
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I think it looks great Reese....It is gonna look a lot more like original motor.
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Update, well I am waiting on some belts from Wayne to arrive, but while I waite I've done some work on the cover. I cut my gear down by half and got most of the cover done. There is still a centerpiece to cut out and weld in and cut out for the coil to fit in. Then a little fine tuning, sanding, buff, and then chrome.
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Well it's getting closer. Just a few more places to cut away for clearance and I will be done. At least with the cover.
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I like it! When finished, are you going to clear coat it with Eastwoods, or something, or let it "patina" naturally?
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I was thinking about chrome but now you got me thinking the plane jane may be ok. ???
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a lot of different finishes can be done on a copper surface. (i.e. polished shiny, matte (soda/bead blasted), dimpled, including lots of different patina colors. It's also easily engraved (or stamped, or acid etched) and then those areas highlighted. I used to do bronze art work using the lost wax mold process, and would "experiment" with different patinas and finishes/colors.
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Well, this should be the last rebuild of my jackshaft mount. I hope. The upper plates will keep in place and unable to move. The pully will keep the belt tight with very little effort. I am having to drop the carb down by 4inches cause the 45° bend just didn't do it. Well the night is a cold 43° and raining so I did not get it reinstalled tonight maybe Friday or Saturday. I hope. Here's a couple of pics.
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Hope it works out , Reese .
It looks heavy duty enough .
Pete . :)
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Looking good Reese! 43 degrees would be a heat wave here.
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I know it was mean of me to post the temp but it sounded better than the next 4 days of 68° to 70°. Oh sorry I did it again my bad. ;D
By the way I've got a question? How would you or do you set the pullies on a jackshaft system? Do you just set the distance and hope it works or is there wiggle room? ???
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Not sure what you are asking Reese, are you speaking about the torque converter distance? If so, the distance between the pulley centers is determined by belt length. They make a bunch of different legth belts and each one covers a range of about 1/2" or so. I have a listing at home, I believe.
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Yes and I would like a copy of that chart because I don't remember what size of belts I got from Wayne. So I understand the distance is what I need to be getting right. Right. I got two from Wayne so when I started this I would have what size I needed. So I have the motor bolted in I then would need to just set the other shaft at the right spacing and I'm done. Well there will be some more trimming to be done pn my bracket. :( Thanks Rick.
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Here you go Reese!
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Thanks Rick. ;D I will post a pic I hope today with it back in place.
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General rule of thumb is the clutch/driven clutch distance is where the belt, when "pinched" down to where it makes a straight line (top and bottom) from driven to the clutch (at rest/open) leaves approx. 1/8th inch clearance between bronze bushing and belt. When the belt is in its "relaxed/normal state, it will make slight contact with the bushing while clutch is spinning inside it. (See crude drawing LOL)
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Thanks Carryall, I will use this also Saturday. I was going to work on it today especially seeing I put off buying a tractor till Saturday. Until I got home and the wife said come ride with me 3 1/2 hours later I'm home. So we will se tomorrow. 8)
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Ok here we go, the shaft is about 8&1/4 inches apartI guess it may do. I can't test it yet for I have not got a final drive belt yet and I need to move my seat springs up some.
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Looks like it should work!
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What size drive pulley are you running on the jackshaft? Also, Are you planning on drill/tapping the end of jackshaft to hold driven clutch in place on outside edge of shaft, or going to use a collar(s)?
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Well Carryall the drive pulley max is 4" but it can be opened up to reduce down to maybe 2 3/4". I am going to be using shims on the inside of the pulley and a collar on the outside. 8)
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I mean't the pulley that is on the jackshaft that goes to your rear wheel sheave...Mine was originally 3.25, but after experimenting with various sizes, I settled on a 4.25 for lower RPM at higher speeds.
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That is what I'm talking about. The pulley I am trying to use can be adjusted by turning one side and un-screw it to widen the gap for the belt to ride in. Then you have a set screw to keep it place. I need to get this on the move soon or I wont have time to get her painted. ;)
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That is a great idea!!! Where'd ya pick that up at? Pic please when ya got a second?
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Ok Carryall here's the story. It came in the box that my motor was in for twenty some odd years and was used to drive a pump I think. Here is one I found on ebay # 271753696943 it has mamy photos. Also if you look back on pages 11 & 12 the photos show a fair look at mine. I have turned it around to better keep a good belt line.
Now to a off beat question has anyone seen the simplex listed in western New York state? # 141556150512. ???
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Well I've been working on mine but nothing looks different yet. Except for the addition on the spring and the proper final drive belt. Today I will need to pick up some new gaskets for the carb and intake. Then I will need to redo the linkage seeing i has a 4" drop in location. This one may not be painted by Portland.
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Reese ,
Just paint everything the same color ... maybe run it through the dip tank to save time . :D
Or maybe you and Rick could form a 'rat pack' and don't worry about paint . LOL
Pete . :)
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What color(s) you leaning towards, and are you going paint or powdercoat?
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I am thinking maybe black and powder coated and it would be called the evil twin. The other one I have will be red and painted not to be mistaken for my custom job that's on the books also. :-\
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I likey glossy blacky (not much for flat) with red accent. (my 1300 V-Star) Problem is, It's just SO hard to keep clean and every scratch, swirl, water spot and blemish shows up. (I'm a perfectionist I guess)
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I rebuilt my intake manifold again changed the filter housing and got it bolted on. It took 4 or 5 kicks without the return spring on and it fired up. This setup may work I hope, everything that moved should most everything that wasn"t suppose to move mostly stay still. Except for a few not so tight set screws that almost came apart but we're good. ::)
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Sounds like progress , Reese . ;)
Pete . :)
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WE NEED PICTURES....
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Ok here it is the final setup before I change my mind again. I have not setup the throttle yet but the hard part is mainly done. What do y'all think of the look?
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I like it Reese! Is that Wayne's kickstart setup? If so, did it need any mods to work with the GC engine?
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Rick with a S,
Yes that is Wayne's kicker setup and the only mods are. Pinion gear was cut in half and behind the kicker is a 1/2inch thick bolt on college to keep the kicker out far enough to miss everything. That's is all. 8)
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That might just work , Reese . ;)
Time for paint .
Pete . :)
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No paint yet, first it's get it running and ride it to debug it and then if there's time paint. More than likely with the demands on me and my time it will not see paint before Portland.
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I can't wait to see it in Portland Reese. We have been so busy with the new ice cream shop that I haven't had time to do anything with mine, but still plan on coming and seeing everyone in Portland...can't wait!
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Yup . Function first . ;)
Pete . :)
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I can't wait to see it in Portland Reese. We have been so busy with the new ice cream shop that I haven't had time to do anything with mine, but still plan on coming and seeing everyone in Portland...can't wait!
Bringing the Kettle Corn? We need to top last years lineup of Simplex's.
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Ok I've got the linkage figured out I think. Now it's time to button it up and take it for a spin. That is if it will stop rainning so the road will dry up some. I don't want to be getting her caked up with mud. There's a few tight spaces there but I hope it all works like it does in my head. ???
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Looking good Reese. Post a picture of the whole bike now, so we can see how it all fits together.
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I like your intake. Will you be able to use that round cover that Matt intended to use for the flywheel. Looking forward to seeing you and your rides in Portland!
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That round cover is just a hubcap and there's no real way to use it. I do have a cover made for it already that looks good on it. I just had it off to install the throttle cable behind the flywheel. If I get tome I will post o photo of the whole bike but there's fenders to mount first.
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Ok come on with the updated photos.... ;)