I have the POWER!

Today I got the GX flywheel and coils in the mail. They fit and produce power. I am just running the coils directly to the lamps.

I purchased a flywheel and 2 lighting coils on ebay that are listed as fitting a GX160/200. I paid like $42 I think. The flywheel came with a starter ring attached. I had to remove it in order to clear the ign. coil. I then tapped the existing holes with a 6mmx1.00 tap and installed 6mmx30mm bolts.

These are listed as 3 amp coils. It looks to be juuuust enough to light two lamps.

Have a look at the initial install pics. I still need to button it all up.

I am 99% sure a flywheel and coils from a GX160/200 will work on these. I may pull the trigger on the parts today.

Stay tuned.

Look ma... no feet! I found some ribbed rubber runner at Home Depot. It was $2.50/ft.

Here are a few photos. It turned out way darker than it started. I think some of the oil must have leached something out of the front bolt. I had the hardware in to keep it up off the table.

You can not see in the photos but the finish is all streaked looking. The "Tan Kote" sealer I used left it that way. I should have rubbed it down more before it cured.

Here it is.

Keep the feet , I think they are cool. Bill Marcum

Too late. I chopped off the toes last night. I have the original foot rests to replace them.

The leather turned out pretty crispy after I wet it and dyed it. So I called Fiebings and they told me to use this or 100% Neatsfoot oil. This was half the price. After a couple rubdowns with this it should be ready for the sealer. You guys may try this on your old saddles.

Well I decided to go ahead and start on the saddle yesterday. I wasn't sure how it would turn out since it was my first time doing any sort of leather work. I am pretty happy with the result.

First I traced out the seat pan and cut the patterns. I didn't want to rivet the bottom so I went with a full skin on both sides. I clamped them face to face and ran my marking tool all around the perimeter. This gave me the correct spacing for the stitches. Then I just hammered out each one.

I used saddle tan for the dye. Notice it looks splotchy. I think this is due to some oils and residue on the surface. I found out I should clean the leather before dyeing. I think it will look good once it has some time on it.

I stitched up half of the cover and then slid the pan into it. I had to wet the inside a bit to help mold itself to the pan. You can see on the bottom I hrelieveeleave the leather a bit. Since I made the top and bottom the same size it became very tight when trying to get it stitched all the way. It took me about 3.5 hours to get it all stitched and formed. No breaks.  

I used a standard saddle stich. I am sure years of practice will help tidy up the stitches.
 
Once it is completely dry I will apply a sealer to the leather. The sealer also gives it a more even look.