Fender restoration

[Mike Sal]

Pulled the fenders off the bike this evening (needed some relax time.....spent the last 2 days tearing down an old hog barn & burning it.....I'm worn to a frazzle).  I found a small amount of bondo in the front of the front fender from some minor dents that weren't worked out very well, and a stress crack on the back fender where the single bolt holds it to the frame at the front.  I'll try to get the paint stripped off & repairs made.

I got to thinking that my gas tank is supposed to be finished tomorrow, so it'll need repainted, so I'd better get on the stick to get the fenders ready so they can all be painted at the same time.

What paint did most ofyou use on your tanks & fenders?  What attaching hardware did you use?  Mine has those shallow slightly rounded head screws with no washers. 
Mike Sal

[bill marcum]

When I took my  fenders apart the bolts holding the brace to the fenders were #10 round head slotted screws with star washers on the outside and # 10 nuts on the inside. I think this was original. I would  not of done it that way. I am thinking # 10 button head (allen )stanless steel screws with lock tight and stanless steel nuts on my bike when it is time to put it together. Bill Marcum

[Ricks]

Hi Bill,

  I used stainless phillips head screws with stainless nylock nuts.  I didn't want anything to vibrate loose. Not original, but more secure!

Rick

[bill marcum]

Rick, Like the ideal of the lock nuts. did you put the brackets on the fender first and then on the bike or the other way around. I was thinking how to do this with out messing up the paint job. Bill Marcum

[Ricks]

I put the fenders on with the one center bolt and then added the braces.  If you are worried about scratching the paint, put painter tape on.

Rick

[Mike Sal]

How do most of you have your rear fender braces set so that the left ones don't rub on the pulley?  I have a slight bend in my left ones, & tried to stagger them in with the braces for the luggage rack, but the upper brace doesn't fit properly with the legs of the rack. 

I'm using stainless slotted round head screws (10-32) & nylock nuts.  I'm also using some rubber washers (I got them at work) between the braces and the fender, to help avoid any damage to the fenders when tightening the nuts on the braces.

I'd also like to see what most of you have done regarding the front lower screw (right side) that ties the fender to the frame.  I think I'll make a temporary spacer, cut at an angle, to hold it until I come up with a better plan.
Mike Sal

[OEM]

About these fender screws  ... I need your opinion.  Should I use chrome or polished stainless ..... or should I paint the screws to match the fender.  Shiny usually looks good but can be "too much"   My brace has a factory bend for clearance ....  I am going to use some thin fibre washers between the brace and fender like Mike.
Anyway .... tell me what will look best on the rear.   Thanks, and I will definitely take your advise.......... unless my wife says "no"      wk   

[mike montgomery]

Mike,
There is a spacer used on the lower right bolt for the rear fender (fender to frame).  I'll try to measure mine tomorrow & tell you the thickness.  Mike

[Mike Sal]

thanks Mike.  I took a wooden dowel & drilled a hole thru it to clear a 1/4 screw, then cut a short end off on a curve to somewhat match the curve of the fender.  May not be accurate, but it'll due for this weekend. 

I've got most of the bike together to make the trip to Portland.  Unfortunately it's not going to be running as I just ran out of time to get everything (like wireing).  Oh well.....

Regarding the screws, I like the simple shiny screws.  I used polished stainless plain slotted ones, making sure to have the slot facing the same way on all of them.  I used the rubber washers to make sure the metal braces didn't try to bend those flimsy fenders.  I only tightened the nuts to the pointwherethe screwcamethru the nylock & barely started to squeeze the rubber.
Mike Sal